Guillow's P40 Warhawk build, photos of the finished model

Very Nice indeed!!!!!!!

Do you mean Cox .020 prop: 4.5D x 2P
If it is a 5D x 2P let us know where to obtain one please.
Since the spinner gobbles up the prop dia. your Pee Wee may do just fine with a 5.5 x 2.

  

WHOA! Beautiful Work !!! All it needs is a Zero to chase !!!!

Great Job !!

Lieven, I hope that the spinner adapter discs that I sent you work out. What I forgot to include in the envelope.. was a Cox 6 x 2 black prop.  I bought 4 of them NIP recently.. and I totally intended to pack one in there for you. Even though it's an .049 prop, I would have "bushed" it for you.. with a short length of 1/8" O.D. alloy tubing.. which has an I.D. that's a perfect fit for bushing the Pee Wee's 3-48 prop-screw. I think that the Pee Wee could handle a 6 x 2.. Lower revs.. yes; but that might make for a more scale-like sound and speed for this free-flight airplane. You'd also have 2" of exposed prop-blade to catch air.. (providing.. the 2" spinner works out) rather than the 1-1/2" of exposed-blade you'd get; using a 5" diameter prop.

6 x 3's are pretty common.. and I wouldn't hesitate to try bushing the hub of one.. and running it on a test stand, to see if your Pee Wee has the "testicular-fortitude"   to achieve a 2-stroke run. I've run bushed 8 x 3 wooden "Zinger" props on my Cox .049 reed-powered biplanes.. and they will work. Adjust the needle-valve in very short increments, until you find the sweet-spot. If it will run in a 2-stroke while "static".. then it definitely will un-wind in flight.

APC LP05525 Composite 5.5x2.5  Free Flight Propeller
APC-Landing Products Free Flight Propeller 6 x 2 APC06020

Do you have a pic of the Cox 6x2?

1/2A Nut wrote:APC LP05525 Composite 5.5x2.5  Free Flight Propeller
APC-Landing Products Free Flight Propeller 6 x 2 APC06020

Do you have a pic of the Cox 6x2?

Yes, I picked these up last Spring, from an old LHS that was going out of business.




There was a bunch of other Cox parts I bought too. The items were in two small cardboard boxes in the shop's back-room (one of the boxes it took weeks for the owner to find for me).. and prices were 40% off the already low 1970's prices that were on the packages. I was hoping to find complete NIB engines, P/C sets.. and crankcases... but there weren't any. NIP/NIB engines would no doubt have been displayed.. and sold, years ago.. and most hobby shops wouldn't have stocked individual major engine components.

Here's some of what I bought. Not shown are several bottles of Aero-Gloss... some of which I mailed-off to Ron Cribbs.

Wow excellent find the 6x2 should be great with throttled engines allowing them to pick up and idle smoother while providing good thrust. Perfect for reed engines. Looks like they most likely were designed in 80's as I have never seen known 6x2's in earlier vintage packaging.   

Yeah it looks mean, it looks Badass! Good job.
Always those last minor details, sometimes maddening, aren't they.
Rusty

Talking of detailing. I didn't use the plastic moulded exhaust pipes that came with the kit. I used pasta for the exhaust stacks glued on small pieces of balsa. I don't know how this pasta is called in other countries but over here it's called "coquillettes". They're half circle shaped little tubes. I cut a bit off to make it approx. 90°. They were stuck on the balsa with CA glue and painted black.







Lieven

Great idea Lieven now all we can say is vid vid vid double chant now vid vid vid woop woooop

TOOOOOOOOO COOOOOOOOL!!!!!!

1/2A Nut wrote:Great idea Lieven now all we can say is vid vid vid double chant now vid vid vid woop woooop  

Thanks guys and yes, I knoooow!!

First of all this: A few weeks ago I received the custom built spinner plater stiffener from Roddie, made on his CNC machine. It's an alu round plate to give more support to the spinner plate than the Pee Wee drive plate can. On the inside there's a plastic washer to be mounted with a nose that fits into the rather large centre hole. Both plates are drilled the size of the Pee Wee prop bolt. It's a perfect fit:









Thanks again, Roddie.

Lieven

OVERLORD wrote:Talking of detailing. I didn't use the plastic moulded exhaust pipes that came with the kit. I used pasta for the exhaust stacks glued on small pieces of balsa. I don't know how this pasta is called in other countries but over here it's called "coquillettes". They're half circle shaped little tubes. I cut a bit off to make it approx. 90°. They were stuck on the balsa with CA glue and painted black.







Lieven

.............. That's Bad Ass lieven  Nice concept (macaroni) I hope it holds up Getback

Lieven,

How does that new custom spinner assembly work for you? Is everything nice and smooth running now? and did it cost much on the top end in rpm?

OVERLORD wrote:

1/2A Nut wrote:Great idea Lieven now all we can say is vid vid vid double chant now vid vid vid woop woooop  

Thanks guys and yes, I knoooow!!

First of all this: A few weeks ago I received the custom built spinner plater stiffener from Roddie, made on his CNC machine. It's an alu round plate to give more support to the spinner plate than the Pee Wee drive plate can. On the inside there's a plastic washer to be mounted with a nose that fits into the rather large centre hole. Both plates are drilled the size of the Pee Wee prop bolt. It's a perfect fit:









Thanks again, Roddie.

Lieven

You're welcome Lieven.. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.. hoping that it spins true now.


If you're planning on painting the spinner.. there's a "Plastic-Primer" product made by Rust-O-Leum.. that you might want to try, if you can source it.



I used it on all of my Rare-Bear's plastic parts.. and polypropylene plastic engine cowling.. because they were so thin/flexible.. and I wanted to be sure that the paint wouldn't flake-off. I sprayed a couple of coats of the plastic-primer.. then my color-coat(s) and finally with clear TF Lustre-Kote for fuel-proofing after my decals were applied.

A few weeks ago, I was balancing the plane outside. I found it didn't float enough in the air so I fixed the lead a little more back and even on the rudder. While launching,, my hand caught the lead and the rudder broke right off. It was in fact the rear part of the fuse that broke out.

Time to make a new rudder and why not, adjustable this time!! I think it was Roddie who brought up the idea. The new fin and rudder were made out of balsa and the rudder attached with pieces of plastic strap you often find around cartons. The rear part of the fuse was made of plywood and the rudder hinge was set back for 10 mm. A control horn was glued on and an aluminium bracket made to fix onto the rear of the fuse. An adjustable 2mm rod keeps the rudder steady. By moving the 2 mm lock nuts, the rudder can be set to L or R.











Lieven

After the rudder repair, I glide-tested the model again in the garden in November. Unfortunately, it didn't resist to out of the ordinary landings. Apart from the multple holes in the tissue, the vinyl firewall broke near the engine and the wing got loose.







I repaired the plane during winter; reinforced the wing to fuse joint and recovered the broken spots. I replaced the fire wall by 3mm plywood.





I balanced ithe plane as per plan and tested today but it wasnt any better as before. I added and removed some washers but couldn't see a difference. Sometimes it goes up, then down like a Stuka, or just down in a straight line, but without any planing. The nose was still not strong enough and broke off in the end.



Any suggestions?

Use sheeting on the nose past the wing root. a sheeted "skid plate" on the bottom might help too.

Those Guillows models are very lightly built for rubber power...not so much for glow power.

I reread the thread, if you are after the scale look using an X member inside the fuselage structure can add a lot of strength.  

On the rudder, replacing a single hinge with a piece of thin steel tinplate such as from a food can would serve the same as your adjustment apparatus and control horn.  I would file this away for the next build though.

Free flight is largely about balance.  Consider putting this aside and building a "parasol" style high wing model as trimming will be easier, and after getting a good handle on trim and balance return to scale.

Phil

Don't want to leave those exhaust pipes out in the rain!

On another note, if you are building a Pee Wee powered free flight, may I suggest the Guillows Super Cub?

24" span and with Pee Wee power, flies like a bird. The high wing configuration is far more forgiving to trim and the model is fairly rugged.

Modifications I did on mine back in 1972 included covering the whole plane with lightweight nylon and having the landing gear retaining in a short length of brass tube so that it could rotate slightly on landing. I used to get usually about 6 flights before I had to reglue the wing to the fuselage. I would inject Ambroid glue through the covering with a hypodermic needle. Another modification might be to make the wing removable with elastic bands to hold it in position.

I also hinged the rudder and elevators with copper wire to allow trim adjustments.

0.4cc of fuel gave a reasonable engine run to prevent flyaways (the 0.020 tank holds 2cc when full).

I concur with the others. In other Guillow kits with instructions for optional glow engine, they recommend filling in the front couple rows of rectangles between stringers and buikhead with 1/16 inch thick balsa sheet trimmed to size. Your model is definitely repairable, and I'd do this before recovering. It will definitely strengthen the nose with minimal weight gain, increasing its robustness.

Also I wanted to add that for a 27" wingspan, the Pee Wee is very powerful. You may have to go with a mild prop mounted backwards to reduce thrust. Some have cut top end by making a tin strap that partially covered the exhaust port, acting as a fixed exhaust restrictor once tightened to restrict RPM.

Because it is a low wing makes it more sensitive to trim but not impossible. The rubber mode dihedral should be adequate, unless Guillow tried to mimick scale.

Due to its smaller wing would be suitable for RC control even as a single channel, as you could control it and the extra power would make for excellent rudder only or 2 channel stunting. I had a 20 inch wingspan shoulder Top Flite Roaring 20 that resembled a miniature Top Dawg on Ace Pulse rudder only with Pee Wee power. That was truly a blast to fly.

One can really have fun in small.

Nice job on the p 40 and j3 cub.Iv'e been wanting to tear the cellophane off my guillows p 40. kit ,Now I think I'm going to go for It

Those interested, Yahoo Groups: Guillows "G" Challenge has a contest where you post photos of finished model and flight times. Contest this year ends I believe on October 31. Guillow employees judge the overall appearances of the models and points are awarded for flight. Winner gets a free Guillows kit. You must have a free Yahoo E-mail account to apply for free membership to access. Message #3087 has the rules in it. Howard Littman AKA kittyfritters is the contest host and group moderator.

This year the Guillow kits for the competition are:

• 204 - Fokker Triplane
  
• 304 LC - Pilatus Porter
  
• 305 LC - DeHavilland Beaver
  
• 309 LC - Cessna 150
  
• 400 Series - Any Kit
  
• 803 - Stearman PT-17
  
• 807 - Spirit of St Louis
  
• 902 - Cessna Bird Dog
  
• 903 - DeHavilland Chipmunk
  
• 1000 Series - Any Kit
  
• 2001 - P-38

Since some of you already are building one of these, it may be worth your while to participate. Howard would more than welcome you, and it would add excitement with the additional participants.
You may win a free kit doing so.

Am I correct in assuming that these have to be rubberband powered ?

akjgardner wrote:Am I correct in assuming that these have to be rubberband powered ?

Per official rules:

Guillows G Challenge Msg #3087 wrote:5. Propellers and Power:

1. Rubber or electric power only.