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Post  oldguy Sat Aug 18, 2018 5:10 pm

Picked up both of these from the evil bay. I think I got an ok deal. $23  total on the .15 And $35 total on the 25. Their both in great shape look to have little run time. Only thing that is burgered up is that who ever had them used pliers on the hub, bone heads Sad . Now I need to build planes for both.  I do more building than I do fying, anyone else fall into that category, maybe it's just me.  Oh Well.  Have a great day. Oh ya I have venturi's and nva coming for both.
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Post  Ken Cook Sat Aug 18, 2018 11:08 pm

I have come across this many times and it bothers the heck out of me. I chuck them up in a drill press on a shaft and file them, sand them and polish them out. The driver on the Fp is still  available and having the thrust washer behind it is important as well. Both still available. The LA series engine uses many parts from the FP. The crank, prop driver, backplate, needle assemblies, wrist pin are all still available. The wrist pin on the FP has nylon end pads, I would take a peek at this as they do wear out especially if used on a profile due to the bottom pad taking the weight. Currently these are out of stock. The FP comes apart very easily and the cylinder is indexed with a very tiny roll pin. The liner has a small notch in the rim so use caution when putting it back together. Also, the rod while it looks symmetrical, it has a slight haunch in it which keeps the rod centered under the piston. Make absolutely certain that you get it's orientation correct when putting it back together or else the rod will bind on the crank pin.

           In addition, both engine pictured use a o-ring under the venturi stack. It's very important that these are intact. This sometimes require the use of 2 of them. They're very thin.   A  padded clamp to squeeze them down firmly with the venturi to install the spraybar could be in order as thumb pressure is not enough.  If not, the case heats up and starts sucking air. I have used Ultra Copper and Ultra Blue around the perimeter in addition to the o-rings if problems still existed. This causes erratic runs and poor fuel draw due to the leak and becomes apparent when the case heats up. These two engines will last your flying career if treated properly.
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Post  oldguy Sun Aug 19, 2018 12:17 pm

Ken Cook wrote:I have come across this many times and it bothers the heck out of me. I chuck them up in a drill press on a shaft and file them, sand them and polish them out. The driver on the Fp is still  available and having the thrust washer behind it is important as well. Both still available. The LA series engine uses many parts from the FP. The crank, prop driver, backplate, needle assemblies, wrist pin are all still available. The wrist pin on the FP has nylon end pads, I would take a peek at this as they do wear out especially if used on a profile due to the bottom pad taking the weight. Currently these are out of stock. The FP comes apart very easily and the cylinder is indexed with a very tiny roll pin. The liner has a small notch in the rim so use caution when putting it back together. Also, the rod while it looks symmetrical, it has a slight haunch in it which keeps the rod centered under the piston. Make absolutely certain that you get it's orientation correct when putting it back together or else the rod will bind on the crank pin.

           In addition, both engine pictured use a o-ring under the venturi stack. It's very important that these are intact. This sometimes require the use of 2 of them. They're very thin.   A  padded clamp to squeeze them down firmly with the venturi to install the spraybar could be in order as thumb pressure is not enough.  If not, the case heats up and starts sucking air. I have used Ultra Copper and Ultra Blue around the perimeter in addition to the o-rings if problems still existed. This causes erratic runs and poor fuel draw due to the leak and becomes apparent when the case heats up. These two engines will last your flying career if treated properly.

Again thanks for the rundown on the engines, both engines came with the carbs and had the O-rings installed. I have no use for the carbs so will probably sell or give to someone that can use them.
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Post  fredvon4 Sun Aug 19, 2018 12:46 pm

As they are slowly aging and parts are more and more sold out....I pester several sources for future repair parts for my stash of 20/25 FP and 25 LA ....

I have both the Iron lung and ABN versions and becaus they are so easy to tame I only have one plane right now with Fox 35...For pure nostalgia I like the RM and Fox...but for a mostly problem free day of hack flying..I really appreciate the user friendly OS engines

You got a good deal on both of them
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Post  GallopingGhostler Sun Aug 19, 2018 8:23 pm

oldguy, Peter Chinn did a 1976 writeup the RC version of that OS Max .15,

Sceptre Flight Model Engine Tests, OS Max 15 RC

It was one of the most powerful .15 plain bearing cross scavenge sport engines of the day. I have an NOS RC version that I hope to put to use one day future.

Well, I saw, it was lonely and needed company Surprised , and so I clicked "bid", and won it for only $9.99 plus $7.19 shipping today, an AP .09 RC Hornet.

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Although its sister the .15 (actually .14) is a touch more powerful and a touch lighter, I like its looks (yeah, I'm into fashion statements tongue ), needle although RC would work good on a CL aircraft as it is out of the way of being knocked off during a nose over. This ABC Sanye based mild Schneurle engine does seem to be a decent sport engine. Shh
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Post  oldguy Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:26 pm

fredvon4 wrote:As they are slowly aging and parts are more and more sold out....I pester several sources for future repair parts for my stash of 20/25 FP and 25 LA ....

I have both the Iron lung and ABN versions and becaus they are so easy to tame I only have one plane right now with Fox 35...For pure nostalgia I like the RM and Fox...but for a mostly problem free day of hack flying..I really appreciate the user friendly OS engines

You got a good deal on both of them

Thanks Fred, I have new R/M with a McCoy .35 installed on it, when I got this os .235 I thought about putting it on the R/M, but the footprint of the .25 is so different than the RH .35. The RH will stay put and I will have to buyild another plane for the .25 and the .15.
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Post  oldguy Sun Aug 19, 2018 9:34 pm

GallopingGhostler wrote:oldguy, Peter Chinn did a 1976 writeup the RC version of that OS Max .15,

Sceptre Flight Model Engine Tests, OS Max 15 RC

It was one of the most powerful .15 plain bearing cross scavenge sport engines of the day. I have an NOS RC version that I hope to put to use one day future.

Well, I saw, it was lonely and needed company  Surprised , and so I clicked "bid", and won it for only $9.99 plus $7.19 shipping today, an AP .09 RC Hornet.

My new to me additions 2018-021
My new to me additions 2018-020

Although its sister the .15 (actually .14) is a touch more powerful and a touch lighter, I like its looks (yeah, I'm into fashion statements tongue ), needle although RC would work good on a CL aircraft as it is out of the way of being knocked off during a nose over. This ABC Sanye based mild Schneurle engine does seem to be a decent sport engine. Shh

Hey thanks for posting the  article.  Nice .09. I've got a new AP .15 I still have to break in  for new plane I built. A .15 size version of the California quicker.My new to me additions Dscn0320
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