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Diesel Fuel purchase or mix ur own ??  Empty

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Diesel Fuel purchase or mix ur own ??  Empty Diesel Fuel purchase or mix ur own ??

Post  getback Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:08 am

After looking for sometime i finally called Davis Diesel a women there told me i could purchase from a Eric Clotton phone # 931-455-2256 called and spoke to a very nice gentleman form England That lives in Tenn. USA he has there fuel now the kicker 1 qt. 17- s&h 18- $2 more for 2 shipped . We talked for a few and he informed me that i could mix my own much cheaper / witch i already knew form beeing here . He said to spray a whole can of the John Deere either witch should make up 40% of mix then 30% Kero and 30% castor he said i don't need the C-Taine booster . So i will probably be mixing my own ... But just wanted to put this info out there for people looking to buy commercial Diesel Fuel , if anyone knows were to get cheaper Good fuel please Advise . Thank You Very Happy
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Post  66 Malibu Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:23 am

Eric,
Eric Clutton (AKA Dr. Diesel) has been my source for model diesel fuel on each trip to the Perry, GA model show.
Reason ?? In our area it is virtually impossible to buy John Deere starting fluid because sometime ago the amateur and professional chemists found the easy source for ether to produce their illegal drugs of choice..
Law enforcement tightened up the sale to the point the John Deere won't even stock it anymore.

YMMV, Steve.....
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Post  Marleysky Fri Dec 14, 2018 11:59 am

@66 Malibu wrote:Eric,
Eric Clutton (AKA Dr. Diesel) has been my source for model diesel fuel on each trip to the Perry, GA model show.
Reason ?? In our area it is virtually impossible to buy John Deere starting fluid because sometime ago the amateur and professional chemists found the easy source for ether to produce their illegal drugs of choice..
Law enforcement tightened up the sale to the point the John Deere won't even stock it anymore.

YMMV, Steve.....


Yeah, LE & stupid regulations suck the fun out of a large part of our hobby. Like we used to be able to do THIS:

Diesel Fuel purchase or mix ur own ??  7a45a510
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Post  ticomareado Fri Dec 14, 2018 3:12 pm

Do not "spray" the JD starting fluid out. Most will just evaporate on the spot. Turn can upside down and spray out the propellant charge. Then carefully puncture can (no sparks!) and pour out the starting fluid into something clean, easily capable, and easy to calibrate the volume. Proceed with mixing and put product in a clean metal can with good sealing cap for storage. Final product has low shelf storage life as ether is a real atmospheric seeper.
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Post  66 Malibu Fri Dec 14, 2018 4:24 pm

Good point,  re: sealing the final container of diesel fuel, be sure to use plumbers white thread sealer tape on the can lid or you will find the can empty in a week from evaporation.
To use it for engine running, I pour some into one of Eric Cluttton's  trick sealable fuel bottles and it stays stored for a while in a cool dark area. The bottles are $10 each and I have three for diesel, 10% N fuel, and 25% N fuel.

Love the picture of the drag racer tapping a drum of Nitro back in the $5 /gal days. Now N can be $25 up /gal !!!!
Back in late 1969, I actually mixed the Nitro for the first AA/FC to go 200 mph in the quarter mile. I was a last minute fill in for a crew man on Gene Snow's "Rambunctious " Dodge Funny Car at a race at Miami-Hollywood Speedway Park in Miami,FL.
He had gone 198 4 times and 199 in the semi final round. My job was to pack the parachute and mix the fuel.
The nitro was the old "wet" nitro that had 2% water in it no matter what the drum said.
Gene told me to pour in straight nitro into the tank and then he produced an small eye dropper type bottle and squeezed in 4 or 5 drops into the tank. He never said out loud but we all knew it was the highly dangerous and  banned "H" ( Hydrazine) !!!
He won the last round by turning 202 mph ,tires spinning all the way with 6 foot flames out the headers.
Hydrazine is one of the most potent rocket fuels ever dreamed up by man and still is !!!
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Post  Oldenginerod Fri Dec 14, 2018 6:03 pm


You need to be really careful with the ether content of these products.  The second link, the Johnsen product, states 50% ether.
You can't go any lower than this.  At 50% ether, you need to assume that the other 50% in the can is something akin to Kero, so with this product, you would depreasurize the can and mix the remaining fluid with caster oil only.  No kero required.  Measure the volume from the can and halve the amount to get your oil content (1/3).
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Post  Levent Suberk Sat Dec 15, 2018 12:52 am

@Oldenginerod wrote:

You need to be really careful with the ether content of these products.  The second link, the Johnsen product, states 50% ether.
You can't go any lower than this.  At 50% ether, you need to assume that the other 50% in the can is something akin to Kero, so with this product, you would depreasurize the can and mix the remaining fluid with caster oil only.  No kero required.  Measure the volume from the can and halve the amount to get your oil content (1/3).

Yes, right. Very Happy
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Post  getback Sat Dec 15, 2018 7:48 am

@ticomareado wrote:Do not "spray" the JD starting fluid out. Most will just evaporate on the spot. Turn can upside down and spray out the propellant charge. Then carefully puncture can (no sparks!) and pour out the starting fluid into something clean, easily capable, and easy to calibrate the volume. Proceed with mixing and put product in a clean metal can with good sealing cap for storage. Final product has low shelf storage life as ether is a real atmospheric seeper.
This is what i am tring to stay away from i am no chemist and don't want to blow my head off ! tongue I would only spray what i can get out of it to a mostly closed container / we discussed at one time were to find metal container with seal in the lid that the product want eat up without much success (( well that prompt me to look again ) i think this will work for storage https://www.berlinpackaging.com/steel-flat-top-cans-w-cap/
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