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Post  Davenz13 on Sat Feb 09, 2019 2:51 am

Times a ticking so I thought I’d better make a move on my entry into the Cars are the Stars tether car build.
While building the Penelope Pitstop Wacky Racer with two engines I was thinking about a three engined version using a Shrike as a base car.
Only a few years back Shrikes weren’t that sort after and I picked up a few at what now seems like bargain prices. I was going to use the green Shrike but as I have a red, black (R/C) and two yellow ones, I decide to keep the green one and use one of the yellow ones instead.
I dismantled and cleaned the Yellow Shrikes this afternoon, the plan being (thinking they were both the same) to make a good one out of the bits and then use the top half of the body off the other car.

Shrike X3 Experimental Disman10

Then I noticed that there is a small difference between the two bodies inside the rear wheel fairings. The body that had the number 8 has extra reinforcing inside the fairing while the body that had the number 5 does not. I presume the number 5 is an earlier model. The red, green and black Shrikes I have all have that extra reinforcing. Apart from their engines and decals I could see no other differences between the two yellow cars

Shrike X3 Experimental Wheel_10

As luck would have it the number 5 is in the better condition and possibly an earlier model so it gets kept as standard. The number 8 body has quite a bit of red staining on it so I’ll use the top off that as it may get painted anyway and keep on the lookout for another yellow body or donor car to finish number 8. The engine off number 8 is one of the pair on the Wacky Racer.

Shrike X3 Experimental Number11

I also have an early Prop Rod metal base which will be much stronger than the later plastic ones and more suited to the build I have in mind.

Shrike X3 Experimental Bases10

With a little modification to the Shrike top around the axle exit points I reckon it will fit the Prop Rod base. While the mounting screws on the base (front pair and rear pair) are the same width apart as the Shrike top, the distance between the front pair and the rear pair on the Prop Rod base is 195mm as against 192mm on the Shrike top but I think I can overcome that problem. I’ll use the back pair as they are and then sort the front mount later. This keeps the rear axle in the middle of the wheel fairing and after a few measurements it looks like the knife edge wheels like on the Wacky Racer will fit inside the fairing. I’ll just have to make some new axles
There is no centre screw mount on the Prop Rod base like there is on the Shrike base.
Here’s a photo of where I’m heading. If you can imagine the Shrike body lower down where the rear wheels are inside the fairings and a third motor in the centre where it normally sits facing backwards.

Shrike X3 Experimental Final_10

Engines are High Performance 049 Bumble Bees rated at 17,000 to 19,000 RPM with 5x3 prop and 25% nitro. Should be a bit quicker than Penelope’s car.

Shrike X3 Experimental Bumble10

Well I’ve made a start, just have to keep the momentum going.
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Post  Ken Cook on Sat Feb 09, 2019 5:31 am

Lately, some of my club members have been pulling out many of their older items such as the Cox Champion tether cars. Another had several Shrike cars he just got back together. When connected to the stock holes in the body, we noted that the car pitches when it gets going fast. Rich the owner slowed the video down to see it more clear. The attachment points needs to be raised about 1" higher. https://www.facebook.com/PhillyFliersCL/videos/vb.513140418756097/240970620158052/?type=2&theater
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Post  OVERLORD on Sat Feb 09, 2019 5:32 am

Good luck, Dave, That looks like a great project!! Babe Bee .049 Babe Bee .049 Clapping Clapping Small Cox Logo Small Cox Logo
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Post  getback on Sat Feb 09, 2019 8:05 am

Should be a interesting transformation, nice to know the difference between the body's . Ken thats a cool vid. sounds like a 4 stroke when slowed down lol! This Site Rocks!
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Post  rsv1cox on Sat Feb 09, 2019 8:59 am

Your jelly bean Easter egg car set a standard that may never be exceeded. I loved that thing.

Good luck with your latest venture. Looking forward to May first.

Bob
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Post  Davenz13 on Thu Apr 04, 2019 6:39 pm

Well time ticks on and I still haven’t done much with my entry.
I needed some bits water jet cut for a bike project so thought I better get some bits for the Shrike project as well.

I also got a complete set for the Penelope Pitstop car as I have two spare bodies and …well… they’re there if I have time to build another.
Anyway, yesterday I had a quick look at what modifications I’d need to put a similar engine mount on the Shrike and sent off a drawing for that as well. They all arrived back this morning.

In this photo the first three items from the top down are for the Pitstop car and the bottom item is the modified Shrike engine mount.

Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike12

Four of the stiffening points along the sides of the prop Rod chassis will be drilled and threaded for the engine mount.

Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike10

Showing the engine mount roughly in place.

Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike11

With upper body roughly in place.

Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike13

When the sides are bent up they should clear the wheel nacelles.
Still a long way to go
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Post  Davenz13 on Sat Apr 06, 2019 6:00 pm

Got a bit more done.

After a lot of measuring decided where the mounting holes needed to be and drilled and tapped threads in the body pan.
Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike16

Drilled holes to suit in engine mount.
Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike17

Dressed mount to the body pan.
Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike18
Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike19

So far so good but I’m starting to have second thoughts about those cast lugs for the tether mount, whether they’ll be strong enough to hold this thing hurling round at speed.
Will think on that Huh...
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Post  getback on Sun Apr 07, 2019 7:40 am

Coming together there Davenz13 , shaping into a speed demon (the twin engine man )                        Small Cox Logo Very Happy Small Cox Logo
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Post  Davenz13 Yesterday at 3:59 am

Hmm I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by using a Prop-Rod body, which I don’t have, instead of a Shrike body, which I do have but is proving very tricky to adapt to the Prop-Rod belly pan. Anyway, the Prop-Rod body style wouldn’t suit the theme I’m hoping to achieve on completion so the Shrike body must be made to fit.
I’ve started trimming the Shrike body but I need to get the axles and wheels in place so I can see exactly how much to take off. I’m using wheels with bearings in the hubs so the axles need to be fixed in place. The floor of the belly pan where the rear axle runs across is curved so mounting some form of carrier there would be difficult and the alignment a nightmare. The easiest way seemed to be to mount a carrier off the engine mount. This is screwed securely to the belly pan and is a nice flat surface to work off.

Using a scrap piece of 4mm aluminum plate and an offcut of 20mm aluminum bar-stock it looked like the idea might work.

Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike21

Prop-Rod axles are about 5mm so the axle holes in the belly pan were carefully drilled out to 6mm which also got rid of the wear inside the original holes. Using 6mm axles allows for the ends to be turned down and threaded to provide a lip for the bearing to seat against.

Shrike X3 Experimental Shrike20

Tomorrow I’ll visit a mate who I’ll get to weld the bar-stock to the 4mm plate. Then the top of the bar-stock and the center portion of the axle will be milled flat and a couple of grub screws fitted to lock the axle in place, once I’ve made it  lol!

Slow going but progress.
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Post  getback Yesterday at 8:30 am

A Lot of modification but with those wheels with bearing in them will make a big difference when she takes to the circle , Crazy Eyes
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