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Aurora .060 rusty and unresponsive - Page 2 Babe_b10
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Post  NEW222 on Sun Feb 17, 2019 5:49 pm

Just like a new engine. I like your blueing methods. I have not done it yet like that, but I must ask. Do you blue the insides too, as I am assuming you do. If so, is there any other prep needed to run the engine again?
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Post  GallopingGhostler on Sun Feb 17, 2019 6:43 pm

Bob, great job, it gives very little hint of its former neglected life, indeed a very well done transformation and restoration. I have no doubts that it will also be a good runner also. Given that it is a slightly larger displacement 0.060, I imagine that its performance ought to be quite respectable, if nothing else at least comparable to a Cox .049 Babe Bee or may be even a Golden Bee.

I managed to pick up a bluing kit in Albuquerque a few weeks ago. It will be my first, now I'll be able to restore the bluing on my steel cylinder engines and needle valves.
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Post  Jason_WI on Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:46 pm

That looks good. What bluing kit do you use? I have a small Birchwoof Casey bluing kit I have used on the .15 cylinders that were rusty. Turned out ok if I repeated the process a second time.
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Post  rsv1cox on Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:59 am

Aurora .060 rusty and unresponsive - Page 2 Wv_cox19
Aurora .060 rusty and unresponsive - Page 2 Wv_cox18

Brownell's Oxpho blue, the best and over time I have tried them all.  I used to buy it by the quart.  

I used to use swimming pool acid to remove the old bluing, but vinegar or even Simple Green will take it off on the small stuff associated with our hobby.  I turned Eric onto it sometime ago, but I think he uses Birchwood/Casey.  

Remove any rust and old blue. I have used a wire wheel on slow speed gently applied at times on really bad rust, but not time time on the .060.

Immerse in the solution for around a minute, wash off with cold water and neutralize with a light oil, then burnish, clean and do again.  I haven't done a second application yet on the Aurora's engine.

Some metals take the process better than others.

Aurora .060 rusty and unresponsive - Page 2 Mccoy_14


Easy.
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Post  getback on Mon Feb 18, 2019 9:09 am

Yes i use the cheaper stuff at the time it made a big diff. at 10-12 $ more at Walmart Very Happy It works ok as far as i can tell does need two times in though. Engine Looks Great Bob . Cool
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Post  GallopingGhostler on Mon Feb 18, 2019 9:36 am

Bob, Brownell did a really good job on that McCoy .35 Red Head, clean and consistent bluing. First time I've seen a media blasted one. Did it come that way, or did you clean it by bead blasting it?

I got Birchwood Casey Permablue kit (3 oz. bottles), was the only thing available, but paid under $20 for it. Got no idea whether its good or not, will know more when I try.

Aurora .060 rusty and unresponsive - Page 2 82244f10

Have noticed that some steel fin Foxes must have not been blued, or may have been "browned" using another chemical system. (Or, is it native but uniform rust? Huh... ) I've seen a few firearms that the steel was browned, they looked sharp with a twist on a slightly different finish.

That would make for an interesting engine variant by browning the cylinder instead of bluing.
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Post  rsv1cox on Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:01 am

Yes, aluminum oxide I think but it may have been Black Magic as I switch off.

Nasty thing when I got it, but it cleaned up well. Some I rub out with fine steel wool and a light oil. Gives a much more natural finish, but I liked this one so much I just left it. Found a prop drive washer, washer and nut so it's complete now.

And, yes, I plan on running that Aurora .060. I have never ran an Aurora engine before. Come-on warmer weather.......

Cabin fever in WV.

Bob
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