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Post  OhBee on Fri Nov 13, 2020 6:47 pm

Is there anyway to attach and shrink/ seal a wing covering WITHOUT dope? Have none... nowhere for me to get any.
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Post  pkrankow on Fri Nov 13, 2020 8:49 pm

Many coverings can be set with glue, white, CA... shrunk with water or steam there are some threads on Stunthanger an artist Avaiojet.

Paint with rustoleum and polyurethane

Dunno, never really tried for real

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Post  NEW222 on Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:48 am

White glue and water mix, glue stick.
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Post  944_Jim on Sat Nov 14, 2020 5:33 am

OhBee,
I discovered "Deft Clear Lacquer Sanding Sealer for Wood" in quart cans at my local Mom and Pop hardware store. It cost me $12/qt with a next-day delivery from warehouse.

The stuff behaves like nitrate dope. I have NOT checked it for fuel-proofing, but use it just as I would nitrate. The frame gets "Defted" and then tissue adhered with more Deft. I imagine the glue-stick method of sticking tissue would work quite well on a "Defted" frame.

Once covered, seal the covering with Deft. Then move on to fuel-proofing as usual. I imagine pulyurethane can be sprayed over Deft just fine. I have topcoated two models with  butyrate dope over Deft successfully.

The stuff dries fast, sands well, and sticks tissue down phenomenally. It also seals/shrinks tissue. It thins with lacquer thinner, and cleans up the same way as nitrate. Paint it In a closes-room environment for that old-school headrush we got as kids while doping models in the bedroom!

https://www.ppgpaints.com/products/interior-stain/deft-interior-clear-lacquer-sanding-sealer
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Post  getback on Sat Nov 14, 2020 7:03 am

From RC groups ( Curtis, as Steve mentioned, perhaps a sensible answer is needed here. I've used an Avery acid-free glue stick when attaching tissue to a model with great results over the years. I wrote about this back in the mid '80's in the First Steps column within Model Airplane News magazine if you want to read the article. Once the framework is tissue covered I then pin down the individual model items, i.e. wing panels and separate tail parts and such, to a flat board and spray everything with lite mist coats (do not soak the tissue) of water using a good atomizer and when all is shrunk as required and dry I then go over the parts with White Rain unscented extra hold hairspray (or similiar) and let the pinned items dry thoroughly. Usually I give the model items two or three lite coats of the hairspray and it does the trick. When everything is dry you can assemble the model and head on out for some trimming flights. It's a nice method that has given great results without stinking up the house or warping fragile model parts. Hope this can help you.)) https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1374412-Any-substitute-for-Dope
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Post  NEW222 on Sat Nov 14, 2020 10:01 am

Very interesting Eric. Good little article.
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Post  Ken Cook on Sat Nov 14, 2020 11:00 am

Iron on covering, not only is it easier, it's 100 times more durable. In addition, you have less warping issues. If a warp is induced, you just twist and heat in the opposing direction. Anyone who suggests that it's too heavy for 1/2A has never used it. I personally wouldn't use polyurethane on a 1/2A, it's heavy and it's weight doesn't go away like dope. Not only is dope important in terms of tightening the covering, it's also a plasticizer which offers it flexibility. Enamels and urethane doesn't offer that. The only urethanes that offer that are used on car bumpers and are two part examples which have a lot of flex additives. If you tear a dope finish silkspan, all you do is brush additional clear on top to repair it as it melts right in. This is not the situation using polyurethanes or enamels. Your essentially up the creek when this happens and nothing your going to do aside from using CA is going to adhere a patch. Iron is inexpensive, faster, lighter and stronger. It's a win win.
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Post  davidll1984 on Sat Nov 14, 2020 11:19 am

Y use iron covering film for m'y model is possible To Find very light film just cant remember Witch chose at the time build for .020 tee dee litle plane very light ken cook its true dope and tisue some time color fade change like wite film if water on plane very bad now new matériel is best Welcom To 2020 build wit new matériel cnc parts laser cut super light film micro Reciver so meny new technologie as3x Reciver long range fpv in very smal stuf now very light old am rc gear stuf is for collector RC Plane
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Post  OhBee on Sat Nov 14, 2020 1:55 pm

I wouldn't even attempt an iron on covering. Way above my pay grade...and have no special tools. Not even sure I can pull off any kind of wing covering anymore. It's been a few decades since the last one!
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Post  OhBee on Sat Nov 14, 2020 2:03 pm

Jim...I just happen to have a quart of that deft sanding sealer I used on the fuselage! I was serioulsy looking at it and wondering?...... I do have some "docspan"!    🙂
.....scratch that......mines Varathane sanding sealer...like water with a white filler pigment mixed in! Nothing sticks to it!......😐

.


Last edited by OhBee on Sat Nov 14, 2020 7:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  OhBee on Sat Nov 14, 2020 2:27 pm

Do I mist the tissue before sticking it down ?...or after its applied dry?    Do you do the wing in 4 pieces...or 2..full span top and bottom?  I'm half scared to even attempt it and ruin all the previous hours of work!
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Post  944_Jim on Sat Nov 14, 2020 8:43 pm

OhBee,
I never concerned myself with trying to do a wing/fuselage in one piece. I like to do my tips first, one end at a time with top and bottom done one after the other. Then I do middle sections in pieces as big as possible... again top and then bottom.
If the tissue will lay down straight, then I lay it dry. But that tends to only happen when doing one bay or section at a time.

If the piece won't lay down smoothly, say, as over three or four sections/bays, then I mist the tissue for some stretch.
Each section is secured only at the perimeter of a section...no doping middles/open structure until the entire part is covered.

I usually won't start doping open bays until the entire part is covered. That way no ribs/bulkheads/formers get pulled out of place by tissue shrinking over different sections at different times.
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Post  OhBee on Sat Nov 14, 2020 9:12 pm

Thanks Jim!.....pondering my next move...
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Post  944_Jim on Sun Nov 15, 2020 12:27 pm

Give me a bit of time. I'm about done building a wing...and will capture the steps in covering it. The bell tank is mounted, and the mid-section sheeting remains to be glued on. The fuselage is almost done from firewall back...the engine cowl needs to be built. Both will be done with Deft, and sealed with old Pactra AeroGloss.
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Post  OhBee on Sun Nov 15, 2020 2:24 pm

Sounds good! Whatcha building now?
I'm just putting sanding sealer coats on my wing framework.....not sure where I'm going from there. I never get to town,and near everything is limited and masks required. I ain't into masks.....I can't breathe!
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