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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Dec 31, 2020 4:19 pm

I know this has come up several times, but couldn’t find anything in the search.

I was cleaning up my shop and organizing my Cox stuff, I found a Pee Wee that has a prop screw broken off inside the crankshaft. It’s in pretty deep as in nothing to grab hold of. I have some ideas on how to remove it, but they are sketchy at best. Just wondering what you guys do when you find one like this.

I do have a spare crankshaft, but i’d like to save this one if possible.

Ron
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Post  dckrsn Thu Dec 31, 2020 4:31 pm

Happy New Year, Ron!
There are screw extractors, all the way down to #1 size.
Prep would include a good soak in your favorite solvent,
and a little heat when your ready to go for for it. If none of
this works, I have several PeeWee cranks, And at least
one has your name on it. If the break isn't clean, you might
coax it out with a small driver.
Bob
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Post  Jason_WI Thu Dec 31, 2020 5:17 pm

Left hand drill bit works if it’s not rusted tight. Get it centered and should catch and turn it out as it drills. I got a set at Harbor Freight.
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Post  OhBee Thu Dec 31, 2020 5:55 pm

Yep!...heat, PB Blaster,left hand drill bit, thread extracter.
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Post  dckrsn Thu Dec 31, 2020 7:11 pm

...also, grab a loupe or whatever, and inspect where the
splines meet the crank. In fact, if you get the stud out,
there's a chance the spline section will fall away.
That's if the break was caused by a crash.
Bob
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Post  sosam117 Thu Dec 31, 2020 8:00 pm

One more thing I would add, and that would be to purchase a:
CENTER DRILL COUNTERSINK BIT TOOLING SET.

It will not wonder like a drill bit would.
Recently, I removed all four screws from a Golden Bee crankcase using the #1 center drill bit.
The original owner of the Golden Bee used epoxy on the threads and all the bolts sheared off even with the crank housing.

Start the hole with the center drill bit, then change it out to the left handed drill.

Here is the web page for the center drill bits:

https://www.amazon.com/Naiyong-Countersink-Contained-Stainless-Metal%EF%BC%8CCopper/dp/B07GTDSCLY/ref=pd_sbs_328_3/132-2307981-3904247?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07GTDSCLY&pd_rd_r=05cdf2a8-6348-44c3-8ba2-d168f4436786&pd_rd_w=gxqgj&pd_rd_wg=qTdlP&pf_rd_p=ed1e2146-ecfe-435e-b3b5-d79fa072fd58&pf_rd_r=YTXYJBN3QZZS1XM1K65J&psc=1&refRID=YTXYJBN3QZZS1XM1K65J

They are good to have for any reason for drilling a hole where you don't want the drill walking before the hole is started.
The "gold" TIN coated ones will last longer. My go to center drill bit is the #1, which is the smallest for working on the Cox, or any model engines.
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Post  coxaddict Thu Dec 31, 2020 10:20 pm

I once purchased a RR-1 for cheap with a broken prop screw in the crank. It was easy to drill out with a no. 38 hss drill bit as it won't cut the hardened internal threads of the crank. I then used a 5-40 tap to clean out the remaining material. Not sure about the size of the .020 prop screw.
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Post  Jason_WI Thu Dec 31, 2020 10:39 pm

@coxaddict wrote:I once purchased a RR-1 for cheap with a broken prop screw in the crank. It was easy to drill out with a no. 38 hss drill bit as it won't  cut the hardened  internal threads of the crank. I then used a 5-40 tap to clean out the remaining material.  Not sure about the size of the .020 prop screw.  

3-48 is the .020 prop screw size.
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Post  coxaddict Fri Jan 01, 2021 12:55 am

Thanks Jason
Have a Happy New Year 2021!

Fireworks Fireworks Fireworks
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