Venturi without mesh screen (installation) --- Enya Rear Induction engines too!

Hey, that’s pretty cool! So the mesh just stays there, no need to punch in the lip on the venturi or anything like that?

I have a couple of old Tee Dees with the mesh missing, and a piece of stainless really high-count mesh somewhere, definitely need to try that!

What is that punch-tool thing that you used?

All stars, great effort, great result!

I like it and I see use for doing so. I have several H&R fuel filters that have the screen mesh missing. These are quite small inline filters that H&R used to produce and are now offered by Brodak. Replacement screens aren't offered. I haven't tried the Brodak version and I would venture to say that if it could be cheapened, it was. When these were taking apart for cleaning and one tried to blow out any residual dirt in the screen, you lost it forever. That's when I learned to clean the screen, hold it with needle nose and light it on fire. I never lost one since but I have several without screens. I tried the mesh screen from the top of Cox fuel cans but they were just a bit too small.

This is a nice ad i like this Me by pure chance I found a screen that came from a carburetor kit for a Weed wacker de screen was exactly Perfect for a .049 tee dee ventury

Been there done that on KB intakes. Used a 13mm Oring hooked twisted around the fuel nipple and the NV seal tube, holds the mesh screen down as a yoke.



Another time I added a screen from a bathtub tap and fixed it on the TD09 venturi with the neck cut off of a balloon:



Helped improve the fuel draw a bit

KariFS wrote:Hey, that’s pretty cool! So the mesh just stays there, no need to punch in the lip on the venturi or anything like that?

I have a couple of old Tee Dees with the mesh missing, and a piece of stainless really high-count mesh somewhere, definitely need to try that!

What is that punch-tool thing that you used?

The venturi already has a lip that was made during machining, the next step was to install the mesh screen like I did.
I do the same thing when I install a screen on the Bee engine's back plates.
Though I use a smaller ball (to curve the screen) and the screen purchased from either Matt or Burnie.
Then insert it into the back plate and flatten out the screen.

The punch set I used is from Precision Brand Products, Inc.
They are just up the road from me  in Dowers Grove and I purchased the metric and inch sets from them.
The "ThruPunch" inch sets (two of them) I have go from 1/8" to 3/4", and the 7/8" to 1-1/4"
(set #1 -- 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4)
(set #2 -- 7/8, 1, 1-1/8, 1-1/4)
The metric "ThruPunch sets goes from 3mm to 20mm ( 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 12, 16, 20mm)

Their address is:
2250 Curtis Street
Downers Grove, ILLinois 60515 U.S.A

website is:
www.precisionbrand.com

I also use their "ABC Blackener" and "Tool Blackener" to get the black finish on the cylinders and starter springs
https://precisionbrand.com/product-category/blackeners/

Nice little store in a industrial section of Downers Grove.
hard to find the store if you do not know what you are looking for?

The punch sets I have have been very useful since I purchased them in 2018.
They have helped in making cylinder head shims, shims for crankshafts (thrust shims -- from copper).
Washers, and other things.

They have come in handy when I have been rebuilding my engines.
The crankshaft play has been reduced (because of using a started on them)
Helped in SPI timing and making thrust bushing behind the prop driver and shimming between the crankcase housing and the thrust washer to reduce the crank end play, so the crank  doesn't rub against the backplate or reed cage.

 this is Somting cool sosam117 enya Very beautiful works Well done that should protect the engine

Busy day at the mailbox of Kari’s Sanctuary of Neglected Little Engines!

Thanks again Mike!

Kari,
Glad I could help you out on making those screens for your Cox engines.