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by rsv1cox Fri Oct 04, 2024 6:32 pm

Cox Engine of The Month
September-2024
F4D Phantom II's

"Surestart .049 geared opposed twin"



PAST WINNERS
CEF Traveling Engine

Win This Engine!
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From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can? - Page 2 Empty Re: From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can?

Post  rsv1cox Tue Sep 28, 2021 12:48 pm

Well, this was way to easy.  

Removed the parts from the kero/mystery oil mix and applied pliers to the broken machine screw expecting resistance and, it just moved with no effort.  Removed the rest with my fingers.  Same for the glow head that gave me so much trouble, 360 degree Cox wrench and it just spun off.  Go figure.  But I can't say that it did much for the rust on the case screws.

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From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can? - Page 2 P1011706

Different story for the cylinder.  After removing the glow head it would not move despite my best efforts.  It said no to the heat gun but yes to the torch.

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Piston is stuck in the cylinder but the con rod spins.  More time in the kero then if that fails - the Evrorust.  Back plate is nasty with all the openings stuffed with rust.  Pins wouldn't touch it so I drilled out the nipple and used wire to clear the others.  Then sandblasted.

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Maybe there is enough metal on the cranks post to cut a slot and back the propellers screw out.
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Post  rsv1cox Tue Sep 28, 2021 6:04 pm

Piston stuck tight in cylinder, took Evaporust soak, dowel, Remoil, and hammer to get it out.  Tapping hammer wouldn't do it, had to bring out the bigger guy.

Before:

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After fine steel wool and oil cleanup.

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Results not good.  Dry, the piston falls right through the cylinder.  Oil doesn't slow it down much.  Cylinder isn't bad, piston is toast I think.  I will try another piston to verify.

Going to try to save the crank shaft by dremel cutting a slot in the stud and backing it out.  Not a lot of confidence in that!
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Post  davidll1984 Tue Sep 28, 2021 6:27 pm

Me to remove I would do the same or I will weld a nut But mat has new crankchaft with small rust spot for cheap wit A new piston Small Cox Logo Babe Bee .049
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Post  rsv1cox Tue Sep 28, 2021 6:58 pm

davidll1984 wrote:Me to remove I would do the same or I will weld a nut But mat has new crankchaft with small rust spot for cheap wit A new piston Small Cox Logo Babe Bee .049

Just went up to the loft to check my Cox parts, I do have crankshafts and everything to fix this engine except pistons, but I'm one of those silly persons that like to restore, if possible original pieces.  I do have a high pro piston that Freddy gave me years ago, going to see if that one drops through the cylinder too.  Not sure if Matt or Bernie still has pistons.

From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can? - Page 2 P1011724

I do know that the .020/.049 tethers are putting a serious hold on my P-38 rebuild.  I had a window because I ran out of balsa for it but since have been to Hobby Lobby and Staples and filled those gaps.  These plans give me a much better idea as to finishing the fuselage.  Might just frame them when finished.  I do love the full scale P-38 airplane.  

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From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can? - Page 2 P1011726
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Post  davidll1984 Tue Sep 28, 2021 7:22 pm

Mat has both aluminum models too I wonder if a regular piston is a little too loose Can try to chrome plated his piston? Or plate cylinder It can be made simple with easy to find ingredients. But it remains risky hazardous a bit . Som Precotion must be taken Surely a good new piston would be better I think
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Sep 28, 2021 11:16 pm

Bob,

I can send a piston, but before I do that, run what you have. I think you may find it’s ok and just needs to bed back in (like a new set of rings) proper piston fit is usually a easy pass through the cylinder with a slight bind at TDC, a slight tap and the piston should fall out.

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Post  davidll1984 Wed Sep 29, 2021 9:52 am

I agree with what cribbs say it's a cylinder that is Not taper In addition, the dry cylinder has no more varnish inside Give it a try We never know But can be a bad idea To run long time runThe piston could do more damage inside the cylinder I don't really know too much it looks rough Might overheat quickly
Check that the oil coming out of the exhaust is not black To mutch after a little ritch run inspection inside cylinder just To make sure al Good . Or that nothing is going well Huh...


Last edited by davidll1984 on Wed Sep 29, 2021 9:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  rsv1cox Wed Sep 29, 2021 9:53 am

Cribbs74 wrote:Bob,

I can send a piston, but before I do that, run what you have. I think you may find it’s ok and just needs to bed back in (like a new set of rings) proper piston fit is usually a easy pass through the cylinder with a slight bind at TDC, a slight tap and the piston should fall out.


Thanks Ron, but not necessary. COMPRESSION!

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Amazing, this thing has compression pop.

Cut a nice centered slot in the old crank and heated with the torch, but still won't budge.  Cut another stud from a #5 and replaced the crank shaft.

I have lost my reassembly tools and my con rod resetting tool.  Had to improvise to set the drive washer.

Only replaced parts are the cut off case machine screw and the crank, everything else is original as found.

Couldn't resist painting the back plate.

From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can? - Page 2 Nasty_18

But, I made no attempt to polish anything. It's mostly just like it came out of the parts cleaner. Amazing stuff!

From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can? - Page 2 P1011745

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Post  Marleysky Wed Sep 29, 2021 1:13 pm

DANG!! Super nice job there Bob! Small Cox Logo
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Post  rsv1cox Wed Sep 29, 2021 6:15 pm

Marleysky wrote:DANG!!  Super nice job there Bob!  Small Cox Logo

Thanks Rene, the parts cleaner did all the work, I just assembled the darned thing.  Oh. I did run the spring starter over the wire wheel. Shined it up nice.

Just a couple of minutes ago I won another beauty. $19 + shipping.  

From $30.84 to wonderful, to bad, to trash can? - Page 2 Ninete10

I was the only bidder.  Can you imagine, 325 million people in the USA including Eric passed on this gem!  Worldwide, who knows.
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Post  crankbndr Wed Sep 29, 2021 7:45 pm

Hard to tell in photo is it a Golden Bee?
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Post  rsv1cox Wed Sep 29, 2021 8:08 pm

crankbndr wrote:Hard to tell in photo is it a Golden Bee?

Yes, that was the sellers description, but it looks pretty bleached out to me. Maybe it's just castor scum on a silver bee. Smile

Up watching this auction that I had bid on. Seller had $29.00 on it, I proxied $36..........wanted that red blister pack. Someone tried sniping me at the end but my proxie held. It's used as seller noted, but over-all not to bad. Like a one-owner thing according to the seller.

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Post  crankbndr Wed Sep 29, 2021 8:13 pm

Nice the early Golden Bee had a much lighter color.
Both could have the older pistons
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Post  rsv1cox Wed Sep 29, 2021 8:19 pm

crankbndr wrote:Nice the early Golden Bee had a much lighter color.

Both will go in the parts cleaner for an hour. I was surprised by the gentle yet effective cleaning it provides. The BB should come out like new. The Golden Bee has had a tough life i suspect.
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Post  NEW222 Wed Sep 29, 2021 8:28 pm

Looks absolutely great Bob. You did another amazing job on it! Congrats on your two other purchases. They too look very nice. As for the first one, I do also believe that it is an early Golden Bee as the gold anodizing on them was very light in color compared to the later versions. But, I am sure time will tell.
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Post  Admin Wed Sep 29, 2021 9:23 pm

Nice score on that early Golden Bee. It's a Golden Bee as it has a black driveplate.

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Post  NEW222 Wed Sep 29, 2021 9:56 pm

Admin wrote:Nice score on that early Golden Bee. It's a Golden Bee as it has a black driveplate.

Good eye. I missed that part.
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Sep 29, 2021 10:32 pm

I meant to write right after you posted, but I got distracted. Early Golden Bee for sure. Glad you got the other one sorted.
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Post  rsv1cox Thu Sep 30, 2021 7:24 am

You guys are taking me to school.......again! Thanks, I thought that black drive plate odd, maybe a mix and match rebuild. It has many nicks, maybe I will paint it gold.....Smile Smile

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Post  rsv1cox Thu Sep 30, 2021 7:54 am

Sitter shows this engine in two places in his book.  Neither is a perfect match.  Brass drive plate and starter spring being the main differences.

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Post  sosam117 Thu Sep 30, 2021 8:20 am

rsv1cox wrote:
crankbndr wrote:Nice the early Golden Bee had a much lighter color.

Both will go in the parts cleaner for an hour.  I was surprised by the gentle yet effective cleaning it provides.  The BB should come out like new.  The Golden Bee has had a tough life i suspect.  

Be careful when cleaning the Golden Bee. The anodizing on the early engines were not that good.
I cleaned a Golden Bee and the yellow anodizing was almost gone to where it looked like a std. Bee.
I used a sonic tank for cleaning.
Just a warning.
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