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Cox Engine of The Month
October-2024
MauricioB's

"Cox .049 Circa 1975, custom."



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Post  layback209 Mon Sep 27, 2021 12:47 am

Thought I would share a motor restoration that was gosh 5yrs in the making. I traded some beer money to a nice gent for a zip lock bag full of cox 0.049 engines. The bag consisted of a couple qrz, some bits and one terrible looking teedee.

I started cleaning and disassembly in around 2016. It was oxidized up bad. I soaked in fuel, scrubbed, cleaned and eventual got it mostly appart. However I could not remove the piston from the cylinder. Based in the oxidation pattern it looked like it was stored with fuel in it and leaned on its side (one sized was very pitted). The plastic venturi based was cracked, there wasn't much left of the thrust washer, however, the crank and plain bearing were pretty good. I ordered a top end, plastic venturi base, and washer from cox international. Bolted it up oiled it good and put it in a plastic bag for storage.

Years later I wanted to run it and though hey you know what I'm going to have another crack at the piston that stuck in the cylinder. I heated it up to 230f and it released, maybe the 5yrs of atf help a smidge I don't know but it was free! So I re-set the ball joint, cleaned it up. Removed the new top and and put the original back on for a run test. Wow did I get suprised.

It's compression was fair / poor nothing special so I didn't have much hopes of a good run.

Well at 1km above sea level or 0.8 miles above sea level on 25% nitro sig 1/2a fuel, after some ritch testing, I started to lean er out. It hit 19500rpm on a 5x3 apc prop easily. I don't have much experience with teedees but boy am I excited.

Here's a little video I made. Can skip past the cleaning to 4mins for the run. I wish I took a before picture.

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Post  davidll1984 Mon Sep 27, 2021 4:36 am

Very good result you did a good restoration job me I don't think I could have waited all this time before trying again I usually use bleach with detergent I let the hot water soak but not very long after When separating the parts sticking in the rust I use a little nitro hoppes black powder dissolvent no 9, beware it is very aggressive on brass copper also on rust Like you, I use heat, but I also put a can of wd40 in the freezer after the heat and the cold inside Let's say it's very efficient Heat then cold a hot side a cold side can help with the cylinders sticking to their casing stuck piston Much more use to assemble the crankshaft bearings on larger engines without using puller No need for hammers or use excessive force Thumbs Up Small Cox Logo Babe Bee .049
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Post  getback Mon Sep 27, 2021 5:41 am

Nice rebuild story and run But i hate to tell you , That's a .051 see the ring around the piston skirt ! Very Happy This Site Rocks!
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Post  layback209 Mon Sep 27, 2021 9:08 pm

Thanks David, great advice I'll have to try those processes on a future tune up.

getback wrote:Nice rebuild story and run But i hate to tell you , That's a .051 see the ring around the piston skirt ! Very Happy This Site Rocks!

Ooops 😆.  I was wondering what that ring was all about.  Looks like this guy miss labeled everything.  Hopefully I don't confuse folks to bad.  I Love This Forum! I'll get it right next time Babe Bee .049 Thanks for checking it out. 👍 always learn lots on here.
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