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Post  davidll1984 Tue Oct 26, 2021 2:30 am

A little off topic but I guess I read that during the .010 test it would seem to get stuck For no reason ???
Affraid or WOW! Well let me give you a little trick to check the spacing between the back plate and the crankchaft pin and piston conecting rod The rear cover can sometimes pull out of the crankcase slightly without leaking more like deforming. Issue Sometimes the 4 holes of the crankcase screws form a deformation around the threads which seems to withdraw from the hole. It push the back cover away This increases the spacing between the cover and the connecting rod The reason why he gets stuck and Seem like hydro lock Inside the housing there is a channel sort of track the piston conecting rod run inside that litle track lets say If it is possible for her to get out, she will get stuck It's the back plate that must hold it back on its track It's easy to check, just to remove the cylinder, move the connecting rod to the rear on the tdc then turn the crank chaft if it stays on the path in the middle it's good but if it goes out of the way it will get stuck Me before using a cox engine whatever it is new or used before taking off this is part of the ferification before use after use and a engine Known correct I check all the same but I only point the prop up then I turn the propeller slowly se if ajustement is Need
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Post  TexasWade Tue Oct 26, 2021 1:58 pm

Yes sir, I noticed a little end play on the crank while I had the cylinder off and I thought about that groove as well.  But it couldn't have been the problem in this case, since the crank turned freely as long as the exhaust ports were open.  Maybe a dog hair flew in there between flicks or something, we'll never know!
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Post  TexasWade Tue Oct 26, 2021 3:03 pm

Oops, I realized the other day that I had neglected the starter spring completely.   The new version will allow use of the stock spring and will save a tiny bit of weight.  I think it looks better too, closer to a Medallion appearance.  I messed around with colors too.  I'll probably try to keep it red to match the tank, but polished aluminum to match the retainer nut might be cool too.  Lots to do before that can become an issue anyway...

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Post  Coxfledgling Wed Oct 27, 2021 2:31 am

What about accomodation of a silencer, an or one, will that fit as well ?

I assume the silencer is the round one that goes over and around the cylinder with the tube outlet to the side, sticking out.

I also assume the carb can be scaled up for a td09 ?

Looking good.
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Post  TexasWade Wed Oct 27, 2021 7:57 am

Thanks!

I don't see why this design wouldn't scale up to also work on a Tee Dee.09 as well, but at the moment I'm not planning to go larger than .049 size.  After I get the .010 sorted out, and then the .020 etc,  I may think about trying the .09 as well but that's going to be a pretty good while.

Check out THIS THREAD where Tee Dee mufflers are being discussed.  I may try to do something with a muffler/header, but more than likely I'll just try to buy it whenever it becomes available.
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Post  davidll1984 Wed Oct 27, 2021 10:03 am

I discovered that the 09 rc pipe is more suitable for .051 tee dee According to the small test that I carried out with my tee dee .051 engine, modify with the carburetor of a .061 wasp I had a good throttle response I think it would be good for the .010 to enlarge it a bit longer for the different rpm of the .010 Have an equal wave for the torque of this small motor capable of 32k plus rpm
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