Prop Rod engine screws and restoration

Folded the tape over onto the bottom and burnished to good to keep it from lifting in the future, although I don't think it's going to be a problem.

Polished out the hood piece and glued it on using a very thin film of 5 minute epoxy on both surfaces.

I used three pieces of thin styrene plastic cut to 3/8" wide by 2 1/2" long and glued them together. The only reason I did it this way is because I didn't have thicker styrene that was 3/8" wide. I only had 1/4" that was thick enough ( about 3/32"), but it was not wide enough. I round-beveled the sides and front of the piece with a small sanding block. Using a close up pic of an original hood scoop ornament off the net, I counted 20 serrations, which made them about 1/8" apart. I used a jeweler's file to cut the lines. Did a follow up sanding with 800 grit, cleaned it with alcohol and then put an oversized strip of sticky- back metal tape over it. I burnished it down with my fingers and trimmed any excess. I used the edge of an old credit card to burnish it down into the cut lines. Got it done in the space of about 40 minutes. These were used only on the later prop rods with the plastic chassis pans for a few years before Cox redesigned it into the Shrike. That's quite a project you have. Did the rear posts break off right at the base?

Got my number stickers from Callie Graphics today and put them on tonight. They turned out really good.

I have the same repro canopy on my example and had the same trouble with it as you can see in my pics. Tried using plastic polish by hand with only minimal improvement. Maybe a small buffing wheel and polishing compound on my dremel might work, but I have to be careful. My metal pan version was fortunate to have the original canopy with it in decent shape.