Another evilBay Enya .06II Throttle Valve

Hi Boats, welcome to the forum.

Asking about Enya engines on the Cox Engine Forum isn't going to get much traction, only three or four of us Enya guys here, maybe better results over on R/C Groups.

For parts look up Bobby Brooks (shtterman) on ebay and MECOA on the net. Also Bob Allan's Compendium provides valuable information regarding all Enya Engines. .

Good luck. Post your results here when you get it sorted.

Bob

Hello Bob,
Bob Brooks have very few parts for these small engines.
Here is his webpage:
https://www.ebay.com/str/thecontrollinestore

Below are web pages of parts that Bob Brooks has:
049/06/08/10 Needle valve assembly (click on "bold" name below to view)
049/06/08/10 NVA

Enya 06-II R/C throttle valve assembly
06-II R/C T.V. Assembly

Enya 049/06/08/10 Drive washer ---- need to specify which one? In your case Bob, the Enya .06-II drive washer:
Enya .06-II Drive Washer

"IF" the cylinder head is messed up when someone tried to remove it here is the replacement:
Cylinder Head replacement part for 049/06/08/10 ---- specify which one ---- Bob , yours is the Enya .06-II
Enya .06-II Cylinder head replacement part

Prop Drive washer replacement?
Enya 06/08/10 and Enya 09-III Prop drive washer

Special Wrench (needed) for your Enya .06-II engine. ORDER "TWO" as you will need it.
Enya Wrench for 049/06/08/10 engines
The wrench does many things:
Such as it will tighten the prop nut, tighten/loosen the glow plug, fits into the exhaust ports to loosen/tighten the cylinder onto the crankcase and if you have the 2nd wrench, here is how I remove the cylinder head for replacement. (because of damage)
I insert the one wrench into the jaws of the vice, so the side of the wrench is sticking out of the jaws about 1/4" (up).
Now with the other wrench, (in the exhaust ports) I heat up the cylinder/head over a paint stripper "heat gun"
After the assembly is hot enough, I go to the wrench that is in the vice and where the slot is in the cylinder head insert the  wrench sticking out from the vice into the slots on the head and unscrew it while with the other hand (with a leather glove on) is pressing down on the cylinder so the head doesn't slip off the wrench in the vice.

If the head looks ok --- I usually don't remove it because Enya uses something like "pipe dope" on those threads and it is rather hard to get it right the 1st time removing the head until you have messed up enough time to figure how much heat to get the hang of it! Too much heat and you distort the cylinder!!!

Last is a nice box to store your Enya .06-II engine, wrenches, instructions, and glow plug.
Just purchase any box (doesn't matter what is printed in the round circle --- like Enya 15D II)
You can use white out or one of those round dots from the Staples store to cover up the old name and write on it the Enya .06-II engine in the sticker circle.
Enya engine storage box

If you call Bob Brooks or email him instead of purchasing from his Ebay store you can save 10% off the price from what t costs on his Ebay store (because Ebay charges him for every transaction).

The prop nut and washer of your engine is compatible to the Enya .09-III nut and washer.
The screws are 2.6x6mm JIS and are a little hard to find.
I have a Japanese shop by me that rebuilds old Japanese bikes and have JIS screws but are a little longer than the OEM Enya screws.
So, I cut them to length using my Dremel tool. (cut the 2.6m screws from 12mm long to 6mm long --OEM, Enya length).

On to your questions Bob:

1.) Yes --- you will need the Enya wrench (get two) to tighten the cylinder to the crankcase.
     The Cox wrenches will not fit.

2.) If it is galled up with plier marks, you can file them out and reduce how badly it looks.

    But, "IF" someone popped off the prop driver and didn't press it back on correctly, that driver will slip sometime later.
    *Ran across one where someone used what looked like JB Weld and epoxied the prop driver back on!
    *At least it had the thrust washer behind the prop driver to stop the JB Weld from getting into the crankcase?
I have a small press and a fixture that I made to press the prop driver on straight and firmly onto the crankshaft and crankcase together (also sets the correct spacing for the crankshaft end play so as to not gouge into the back plate)

3.) The thrust washer?  I have made a few (copper) and could send you one in the mail?
Other problems would be, how much wear on the front of the crankcase where the prop drive was?
Need to know to make the correct shims for the crankshaft end play and to stop the damage on the back plate.

4.) Gaskets Part #06212 - back plate gasket / Part #06214 - carb gasket ---- Ken Enya has both for ¥150(about $1.25 each)
I'm currently out of stock, but will placing an order some time end of next month for more?
Ordering them alone isn't worth it as the shipping would be over $8.00.
Replacement back plate: Part #06209 and is ¥350 (about $2.35)

5.)Original Manual for the Enya .06-II engine (I can email them to you -- pdf. form -- as the CEF won't do pdf. files?)

6.) Interested in a muffler?
Ken Enya sells the muffler for that engine: Part #M603 for ¥1000 (about $6.75)

Finding parts is very hard to find for these engines because they were really never shipped out of Japan in any quantity.
They only started showing up anywhere in very small quantities because of the original brochure that was included in the other "bigger" engines. That is how I found out about them.

I've attached photos of the manuals I have of the small engines (yours included)

One is in Japanese and the other is translated:

Original Enya Japanese instructions:



Translated Enya Japanese instructions:



Also, here are other instructions/brochure that would have been included with the engine.
These instructions would have been in the box "IF" it was to be shipped to other countries:



One more thing about your engine.
The piston assembly is of a "five" part design.
If you hold the connecting rod (firmly in your fingers), try to turn the piston? Does it turn(rotate)?
The piston is supposed to turn freely (just like a Cox engine's conrod and piston.) If it doesn't then you have another problem.
The cage inside that holds the conrod and piston pin is rusted in place and need to be taken apart and cleaned up.

Here is the Piston assembly taken apart and cleaned up.



While the assembly is apart, I modified piston cage to reduce vibration.

Original unmodified cage:


Modified (lightened up) cage:


So, Bob, you have a little work to do there?

Let me know if you need help?
I have shown Ken Enya what I have done rebuilding the engines and also asked for his assistance and information on the engines specs. which I told him I would not release.
Ken did wish that I was working at his factory/building rebuilding the engines for him?

I wish I could actually be assembling some Enya engines for Ken --- maybe take one home to test run one once in a while?

Bob,
Is your prop drive washer and back plate as bad as these?







Like you, I got this Enya from Ebay and I think either the previous owner like to run the engine backwards, or he loved using an electric starter on the engine until it started?

Got new parts, gaskets and a messed-up crankcase from Ken Enya.
Only slight gouging on the connecting rod --- nothing too critical -- just small marks.
The crankcase I had to use an adjustable reamer to get the correct size of the bore to fit the crankshaft from the old engine.
The bore on the crankcase was only drilled out but not to a finished size (reamed). The rest of the case was machined.


More photos from different angles?

When I read "refurbished" I think of clean it up as cheap as possible and sell it at a higher price.

When I rebuild the engine, I like to get it back to new condition.
New gaskets, screws and other worn items (when I can get them)
So, I think of the engines I have is "remanufactured" as they would have left the factory (new).

My Remanufactured Enya diesel .06D-II series #4 Enya:

sosam117,
Thank you for all those resources!
My backplate is only lightly scratched compared to those!
My drive washer is not gouged or ring cut, at all. The only damage appears to be on the "flats" of the drive part of the opening. It is gouged from both ends. I think they put it on backwards and tried to jam it on. The gouges are fresh looking, to me. The threads on the shaft are a little dinged up, too. Although, the prop nut threaded on. The drive flange looks fine. I don't have a press, any longer... we downsized and moved onto a 45ft sailboat.
I really want to do this right, the first time! Is it possible to tap it on with a drive washer, thrust washer, and a piece of paper for a removable spacer?
As soon as I get 5 posts on this forum, I will post pics.
Your engines look like jewels, to me!
Whenever you get ready to order Enya parts next month, could I send you a postage prepaid box and share the shipping from Japan?
fatherman13@yahoo.com is my email.
Boats13 CT Woods

Bob,
Currently I am waiting on a reply from Ken Enya.

I have asked Ken in the 1st week in January for an Enya SS-25D diesel engine and two Enya 11CX engines.
Ken replied that he could (he does have enough engine parts) to build the engines for me but will take a few weeks.

He said it will take about 5~6 weeks and he'll let me know when they are ready.
I'll then place an order for engines parts as well, so I can reman some engines that I purchased from Ken over the last 3 years.
(that's another deal -- maybe now I should not have done, but a story for another time? maybe?)

I'm actually CT or Boats, I think Bob is rsvcox...
I've been reading all that I can find on here. Are you referring to the 11 boxes of trade-ins and parts that you bought?! That was amazing! I never saw a final inventory of them. What changes on an .06 diesel besides the head and corroded? If nothing else changes, could you ask Ken Enya if he has a diesel head and conrod? I don't know if the porting in the cylinder is different or if the diameter of the carburetor throat is smaller, also... should I wait and order wrenches, drive collar from Ken as well? Or should I get those from Bob (shtterman on eBay)?
CT (Boats13)

I messaged shtterman on eBay and he has the wrenches, correct drive washer, and thrust washer. I forgot to ask about any of the other stuff. I will now have 5 posts and can/will post pics of the subject engine, tomorrow! Stay tuned for updates tomorrow morning!!

C.T.
someday soon, again!

Boats13 wrote:I messaged shtterman on eBay and he has the wrenches, correct drive washer, and thrust washer. I forgot to ask about any of the other stuff. I will now have 5 posts and can/will post pics of the subject engine, tomorrow!  Stay tuned for updates tomorrow morning!!

C.T.
 someday soon,  again!

CT,
I'll post something later this week for more stuff on your engine (maybe more help?)
Having problems with the computer ---- hard drive might be going out? Six years old hard drive!

Getting it changed out tomorrow,

I really think I can dress up the flats on the inside of drive washer. Getting it back on properly spaced I dont feel as confident about. The front of the case looks fine and not scratched at all.r
Sosam, may I use your name that you have signed some posts with?
If this is taking up forum space that folks don't want to read we could take this to messages or email... I don't want to offend or frustate anyone with my first topic since joining in 2018...
I don't have any tools to chamfer the crank pin as sosam117 did on his. I don't know how much play there should be on the conrod to crank pin. Nor how much endplay there should be on tbe crankshaft.
The nut spins down smoothly over the rough part of the thread.  The backplate scratches I can polish out with a Dremel Tool. (Yes, I had JIS inserts for the screws!)
I have not pulled the barrel out of the carb to see if it is an old style and has the holes lined up properly  or if it has a groove and just needs the lever lined up.
The 3-in-1 oil soaked right through the front bearing. It feels new in its rotational smoothness, however there is castor oil residue on the conrod. Seems like good compression,  too. These little Enyas are not light as a Cox, nor do I expect the power and rpm of a TeeDee. But, man does it look as though it's built to last...

C.T. (Boats)