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Post  Ken Cook Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:51 pm

Rusty, I certainly feel that it would prevent the burp that you may be experiencing on outside maneuvers. I wanted to do a thread on remote needles and brackets I make. Here is a photo of my Cox Tee Dee foamie that I just abuse the heck out of. Shawn comes out of the wingovers and throws these wiggles in which makes me always stuff the plane in the ground. I put this plane in full bore out of the wingover 10 times one Saturday. I was getting hot due to having to constantly dismantle the engine and flush before restart. No damage to the needle and I was burying the plane up to the leading edge like a lawn dart.
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[url=https://servimg.com/view/17420312/166]Restoring the Jr Satan - Page 2 Dscn1626


This is where you really can improve your skills soldering. I've come up with some pretty unique ways to keep things square and clean looking. This needle is the same needle as yours. My needle valve body is a ACE body. I lightly chuck the needle into my drill press and I cut it off with a hacksaw blade nice and square. This brass is tough. I clean real well and proceed to solder. I use small tubing cut square to hold the washer on square during soldering. It also prevents flux and solder from running down onto the threads. Don't clean any brass that you don't want solder on. I then sand clean and wash in a laquer thinner. Ken
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Post  JPvelo Mon Nov 19, 2012 3:55 pm

RknRusty wrote:
JPvelo wrote:You could also buy a Venturi spacer from cox international. It goes between the needle assembly and the carb body and allows you to rotate the needle to the other side.
Jim
Either side is the same. If the cylinder is on the side, I can mount the NV so the needle either points up or it points down. If it's pointed down and I land on the belly I bend the needle. If it's pointed up and it lands land on its back I bend the needle. I test mounted the engine at a 45 degree angle to see if it was protected and the needle is still exposed.

This venturi spacer?
http://coxengines.ca/cox-.049-venturi-spacer-3.html
What does it do? I can already put the needle on either side by just removing it and flipping it over. Am I missing something?
I've always tried to rotate the valve around and there'd not enough clearance. Didn't think about just flipping it. Nevermimd Embarassed

Fredvon, Thanks for the link to the Nelson finishing products.
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 19, 2012 6:18 pm

Ken Cook wrote:
This is where you really can improve your skills soldering. I've come up with some pretty unique ways to keep things square and clean looking. This needle is the same needle as yours. My needle valve body is a ACE body. I lightly chuck the needle into my drill press and I cut it off with a hacksaw blade nice and square. This brass is tough. I clean real well and proceed to solder. I use small tubing cut square to hold the washer on square during soldering. It also prevents flux and solder from running down onto the threads. Don't clean any brass that you don't want solder on. I then sand clean and wash in a laquer thinner. Ken
That's a good idea for a stubby needle, thanks. I can work out something like that.

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Post  Ken Cook Tue Dec 04, 2012 4:47 am

Restoring the Jr Satan - Page 2 Photo_10


The rewards paid off this past weekend. A neat little flyer and it was nice to see this moldy oldie flying once again. A bit twitchy, but certainly cool. I always wanted to build one and although I didn't build this one, all the work I put into it I could say I did. Next project already started is the big brother the Voodoo. I got it framed up the other evening all complete with internal bladder compartment. Ken
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:40 am

What a great action shot!!!! Glad it flew well for you guys. What did you end up using to pull it?

Ron

Edit: nevermind I just saw your Cox engine of the month submission. Good choice!
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Post  RknRusty Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:28 am

Great picture, Ken. It always feels so good to finally get that first flight in the air. For me, long after the bulk of the thing has been built, there is always an endless pile of pesky last details that take forever to get done just right. I have to force myself to be patient and do it right.
I'm glad you went with that color scheme, it's perfect classic Satan.
Is that a Medallion .15?

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Post  Ken Cook Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:20 pm


Rusty, it is indeed a Medallion .15. It suffered the same fate as the one Jason recently had. This engine has less than 10 flights on it. The first few resulted in the engine seizing and galling like Jason's engine. I was at a loss finding replacement parts. I saw Henry Werner from Virginia Hobbysports at Brodak's in 2009. He fixed me up with some new piston cylinders and were back in business. Prop was a wide blade 7x4. It worked exceptionally well and it had good speed. After some trimming, Shawn put it through the paces and I was very impressed with having the engine run the same upright as inverted. Ken



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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:28 pm

Ken Cook wrote:
Rusty, it is indeed a Medallion .15. It suffered the same fate as the one Jason recently had. This engine has less than 10 flights on it. The first few resulted in the engine seizing and galling like Jason's engine. I was at a loss finding replacement parts. I saw Henry Werner from Virginia Hobbysports at Brodak's in 2009. He fixed me up with some new piston cylinders and were back in business. Prop was a wide blade 7x4. It worked exceptionally well and it had good speed. After some trimming, Shawn put it through the paces and I was very impressed with having the engine run the same upright as inverted. Ken




How do you feel it compares to a modern combat wing?
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Post  Ken Cook Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:44 pm

I didn't fly it this weekend. Shawn however said it was pretty cool. We had some issues initally. The plane was overly sensitive. Shawn flies with a inflight adjustable handle. I can post a pic of it if you would like to see. The handle spacing of these are pretty small and these handles weren't available back then. I can see that if someone tried to fly this plane with the CG properly in place and a wide handle spacing, your going to have a wild ride. I certainly feel this 2" bellcrank is the problem here as it's just too sensitive. The problem is there's just not enough room in there for a 3". This means a taller control horn, and a narrower handle spacing. Comparing this to a modern wing is like night and day.

I don't mean that in a negative way. Realize that were dealing with 60's technology here. A straight leading edge plane generally pivots around on a turn rather quickly. We were using a wide blade 7x4. It was doing quite well through the maneuvers and also on speed. We were quite pleased on how the plane responded and flew through the maneuvers. For those that have some Cox.15's around, this plane fits the bill. It was a lot of fun and I truly enjoyed it. I can say this, the 2 oz. tank flies a loooong time with this engine. Ken
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