Valentine 049 engines

Not really planning to, its a nice piece in my collection and I have enough running reedies and parts /parts engines to last me a lifetime. If I want something more powerful than my kb/venom then I run a TEEDEE and be done with it
I got mine mostly for the collection and as a research project

If I would ever start a collection I would need at least two out of each engine model. One to run and one to save, can't imagine just keeping an engine in a box and not knowing what it can do...

Damn!

It looks as though I'll have to be the one to run one when it turns up.#

I think there are already video's on the tube of these engines, or at least there were numbers given on RCU at the time these engines were a hot topic (a year or two ago).

Fit90 ran his a while back, he posted his findings,

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t563-happy-valentine-s-day-valentine-speed-bee-ii?highlight=valentine#7684

crankbndr wrote:Fit90 ran his a while back, he posted his findings,

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t563-happy-valentine-s-day-valentine-speed-bee-ii?highlight=valentine#7684

Thanks for the link, I hadn't seen that thread.

Looks like the speed bee isn't what I hoped it would be. Many rear intake disk valve engines are faster than the front intake type, due to no wasted airspace in the crankshaft and better pumping action. I had hoped the speed bee would keep up with, or out perform a TD. Sad it doesn't.

There are many different builds of the Speed Bee.

There is the Speed Bee I and the Speed Bee II with the crankcase defining the two variants.

Then there are some with rear reed valve, rear drum rotary and disc valves. Some with dual ports and some schnuerle ported. All possible combinations have been made.

Not to mention my favourite variants - the diesel versions. These are the only "Cox" diesels that are reliable and have true diesel performance. The piston is retained but the cylinder head is crafted true diesel style with a proper contra piston. This is not an "add on" head with a faux contra piston.

The contra piston is tapered and lipped for a very tight seal unaffected by heat as the engine runs.

The head with tommy bar.





The cylinder - this is the schneurle ported variety. Contra piston, as it should be, integral with the cylinder and not the head.




Excuse fingers!





For the glow aficionados - untold permutations!




Oh! I forgot - SPI and non SPI.

Pretty collection. Really diggin the green one. The link to my earlier run also included a little blurb about the Speed Bee I as well as the II.

fit90 wrote:Pretty collection. Really diggin the green one. The link to my earlier run also included a little blurb about the Speed Bee I as well as the II.

I read the posting that you did and found your efforts and perseverance remarkable. I have a couple that I have run and swapped parts. I found that they all need patience running in - particularly the disc valve version.

Depending on the configuration, they can match the performance bees and the diesel versions are superb. Ronalds web site quotes 16,000 to 22,000 but this includes 051s and front rotary (TD). I wouldn't expect fantastic performance but the rotary valves have the advantage of not running backwards (unless reversed!).

I like the disk rear rotaries because, with a lathe and a little patience, it is quite easy to play with the timing and match the fuel used. I have also changed the material used for the valve - dural, mild steel, green nylon............. - I have not bettered the original but the timing has made a difference with different nitros.

Care needs to be taken with all disc valve engines in watching for any developing end play in the crankshaft. My quick method of stopping an engine by throwing an oily rag into the propeller ruined a valve.(Results similar to those you found). Did it for years - stopped doing it now! - and I started shimming to stop crankshaft float. Close tolerances with a disc valve need respect.

Watched Dad throw a rag in for years too...

My older brother freaked when I grabbed a spinner on a running Cox 049 to stop it! (blasted backwards starts. some days they just start the wrong way unless you flip them backwards...then they run in reverse.)

Yes, I know the correct and best answer is to dip the model so the engine sucks air instead of fuel from the tank. I typically do this now, bit still grab spinners on occasion. (Or pinch the fuel line, plan ahead and route it suitably)
Phil

Is these engines come with paper work? instruction sheet, and certificate said how many were produced, etc? One of the seller (not speed demond diesel) I ask said not paper works in the box just engine & box.

All the engines come in a box - sometimes the box is personalised. There is also a cerificate of authenticity (usually personalised) and the number of the engine.

No instruction sheet is provided but the Cox derivatives have no special requirements for starting and running.

The engines are bagged inside the box and treated with a "special" very clear oil that will preserve not seize the engine. The box is also bagged.

Each engine is hand produced and so they are all unique.

pkrankow wrote:Watched Dad throw a rag in for years too...

My older brother freaked when I grabbed a spinner on a running Cox 049 to stop it! (blasted backwards starts. some days they just start the wrong way unless you flip them backwards...then they run in reverse.)

Yes, I know the correct and best answer is to dip the model so the engine sucks air instead of fuel from the tank. I typically do this now, bit still grab spinners on occasion. (Or pinch the fuel line, plan ahead and route it suitably)
Phil

Phil,
I’m sure that I have a Cox instruction sheet that advises to grab the spinner to stop an engine that starts backwards. Can’t put my fingers on it right now but if seriously challenged think I can dig it out .
Al

Al you're right, it was the SB, SBJ and T Hopper spinner.

But don't do what Mark did and rip of the propeller with your fingers!

I attempted to stop the prop that way once. All that happened is my fingers got slung off the spinner and a little to close to the prop. Why in the world would it have ever been suggested?

Ron

Once I accidentally had my knuckles try stopping my TD 049`s prop while I was adjusting the needle,it didn`t look quite that close but sure made a bloddy skinless mess of my knuckles and did NOT stop the prop btw lol