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Post  fredvon4 Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:52 pm

Been discussed a lot but there are always new folks asking

A cleaning out of all fuel with a dose of After Run Oil is the best preventative

Marvel Mystery oil additive for fuel systems is NOT the oil to use...Marvel Mystery AIR tool oil is an excellent after run oil as is ANY other cheaper brand of Air tool oils as they all have anti corrosion inhibitors and water displacing additives. MM Air tool oil at O'Reilly is $3.49 for 4 oz...Campbell Hausfeld Air tool oil is $2.99 for 8oz

Do NOT mix your own after run oil with ATF unless you know the ATF does not have friction modifiers... in other words not all ATF are the same

For frozen engines I have a very small $9.99 Walmart crock pot that has a high and low setting...in it I have about a pint of store brand cheap antifreeze....you could use just about any solvent that is plastic friendly including water and dawn dish soap...I have not found one 20 to 40 year old frozen engine yet that an over night soak on low temp in antifreeze would not cure

!! Caution!! Anti Freeze is bad mojo for your pets and not real good for you so do not stick your face over the boiling steaming fumes and use latex or non latex gloves when you rinse the engine off in water...and obviously after this operation the crock pot should not be used for food until you know the ceramic is absolutely cleaned...kinda why I bought a $10 one for my hobby shop

I also have an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner from e-bay (less than $50) that will hold up to a .90 sized engine..I use water and Dawn, or 91% denatured alcohol..

15 min (with no heat) in 91% alcohol will free up most rusty or hardened castor frozen engines. My ultra sonic cleaner has a heat function that I do NOT use with high evaporation solutions like alcohol.

!!! Caution with using denatured alcohol.... take engine out immediately after cleaning!!!

If you throw the entire engine in, you have different metals in the Ultra Sonic cleaner, like a aluminum case, ABC, AAC, or ABN liner, steel screws, bronze bushings etc.  If you leave the engine and parts in the cleaner over night the aluminum case will discolor badly from electrolysis or galvanic interaction with all the dissimilar metals...including the stainless steel of the cleaner bowl
I have one very ugly engine learning this the hard way

And to be true to this forum there is a following for using a Gun Cleaning solvent called Hoppes number 9 that is easy on plastic and very good but can be it a tad expensive if you cannot find the pint or quart containers...Hoppes also smells very good to most of us gun nuts


Last edited by fredvon4 on Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:42 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : sd spelling correction)
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Post  SuperDave Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:04 pm

Hoppe's #9, Fred.

It has all sorts of uses.  Haven't tried it as an aphrodesiac though.     Devil
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Post  fredvon4 Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:45 pm

Grin ..SD a little on HER wrists and behind the ear would be acceptable for what you say you have not done yet.... a bit better than castor oil fuel but not by much///double grin

 Hand Shake
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Post  SuperDave Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:26 am

And let me emphasize the IMPORTANCE of using correcto tools when cleaning engines.

More the one Cox engine has been been RUINED by using common pliers. ARRRRRGH!

Cox wrenches are inexpensive compared to the damage that can be done without them!

SD
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:02 pm

I always take engines apart when going in for a soak in antifreeze in the crock pot. The crock pot I only use for the larger engines. Usually bearings need to be replaced anyway so they need to come apart.

For the Cox engines I soak in denatured for a few hours and brush with a firm tooth brush. Seems to work good. Never soak delrin parts in the denatured unless you like white chalky parts.

I completely dissemble each engine even removing the crank shaft to clean the oil groove. Takes time but worth it. For after run I use 2 cycle engine oil. Never seems to gum up.
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Post  SuperDave Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:24 am

Jason:

Since my wife and I are cat (meow) fanciers I don't go the anti-freeze/crock pot route.

We once had a cat than accidently ingested some anti-freeze and watching her die in convultions was NOT pretty. Broke our hearts.   Crying or Very sad 

SD - the Hoppie's #9 guy
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Post  pkrankow Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:49 am

The problem with Hoppes is it dissolves copper.

I like denatured alcohol in a closed jar. Overnight solves most stuck things, and it won't damage the plastics used in engines.

Phil
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Post  SuperDave Tue Mar 04, 2014 12:45 pm

Phil:  Cox reeds aren't copper in case that's your concern.

Edit: they're made of beryillum which copper in color (I had to look up the spelling)  Wink 

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Post  fredvon4 Tue Mar 04, 2014 6:44 pm

Not to be contrary but the head shims are copper alloy as are some reeds. NO Cox reeds are pure beryllium, they are a copper alloy. That said I have indeed soaked several engines of all sizes in Hoppes #9 and if it does eat copper , ((and I know it is designed to remove copper and lead fouling in chambers and rifling of guns)), I can not detect any dissolving of fore mentioned shims and reeds

I use a lot of beryllium/copper alloy in my Ham radio hobby as it is a superior tension finger stock for RF current contacts on screwdriver antennas

Beryllium is also found in many Babbitt bearings as well as lead ....wish I knew thirty years ago not to soak my hands in used motor oil....dang...Oh well, it all came off easily in MEK, Gasoline or TriChloroFluoroEthyleine..... double dang
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Post  SuperDave Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:57 am

i













I defer to Fred's more extensive experience above.  It's just that I've never had the problem using Hoppe's #9.

SD

SD
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Post  fredvon4 Wed Mar 05, 2014 11:01 am

I never have either SD...this got me curious so I am taking a dead beryllium reed and two well crushed head gaskets and putting then in a bit of Hoppes #9 to see if I can detect any dissolving over time...days, weeks, months...who knows

This will not be a controlled scientific test. When I use Hoppes #9 cleaning up old stuck engines they rarely are in the solvent more than a few hours

Years ago some dentist or government idiot claimed that a tooth will completely dissolve in regular Coke a Cola... Years before, the Army sent me home with a extracted wisdom tooth that erupted out the side of my jaw.

When I saw this TV claim about Coke I had a hard time believing it. I had been drinking Coke over 25 years and still had no cavities. I found the tooth in a junk drawer and asked my 7th grade son to conduct the experiment keeping a log of the decay over time..... weeks went by and the tooth was still just a tooth.....This was not the beginning of my distrust of so called authority or experts but it did add to my higher than normal skepticism of stuff I read or hear

Fred- drinking a Caffeine Free Coke as I type
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Post  SuperDave Wed Mar 05, 2014 3:16 pm

Fred:

Read the subject line.

Have you ever encoutered a "stuck up engine"?  sunny 

SD
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Post  fredvon4 Wed Mar 05, 2014 4:24 pm

Hee hee heee... a few times but I did meet more women with that condition... no Hoppes #9 would help them

I have had a few engines that never would run right for me...had a buddy that loved my frustration and would meekly ask if I was gonna pitch the POS crappy stuck up engine... I would toss it to him and damned if next weekend we wasn't grinning his ass off flying my throwaway.... ( I suspect he replaced all the innards)
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Post  crankbndr Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:05 am

pkrankow wrote:The problem with Hoppes is it dissolves copper.  

I like denatured alcohol in a closed jar.  Overnight solves most stuck things, and it won't damage the plastics used in engines.

Phil


I dropped these in Hoppes and forgot they were in soaking, they soaked for a week, ate the copper of of one and damaged the other

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Post  SuperDave Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:37 am

Disclaimer:

I did NOT recommend soaking anything in Hoppe's #9 for an entire week more like ten minutes then apply a little MILD heat.  Moderation and patience, lads.

Frees up most any Cox engine that I've encountered.

SD
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Post  Oldenginerod Sat Mar 15, 2014 3:56 pm

As far as I know, the copper coating on Cox pistons is only there to protect the crown (ball socket) from being case hardened like the skirt. I don't believe it has any purpose after manufacturing and would probably not cause any problems with the pistons shown.

Rod.
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