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Product recommendation
Page 1 of 1
Product recommendation
IN other threads I have alluded to some of the cool tools or expendables I use
Doing the Tee Dee performance mods I polished the crank shafts with this stuff from MidwayUSA
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/896051/dmt-sharpener-dia-paste-diamond-compound-1-3-and-6-micron-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding
Most of the Crank shaft modification folks, including Paul Gibeault recommend using Emory cloth around 600 or higher grit. I polity object as the clearance between the case and crank on Anodized or bushed engines on the smaller engines is critical.
The three grits of Diamond paste: Copper= 6 micron/4000 mesh/ Yellow= 3 micron/8000 mesh/ and Gray= 1 micron 15,000 mesh can be used to super polish any Cox crank shaft without reducing the diameter too much. (at least my expensive .0001 tolerance caliper sez so)
Just leave the bore of the anodized crank case super clean and do all the work on the crank shaft until you can barely notice very little (say again VERY LITTLE) side play...in fact I swap around until I find the tight combination then polish/hone the crank until it has no real drag (heavy end falls down on it's own like Paul G suggests)
I use a small drill press to hold the Crank shaft at low RPM and use thin strips of heavy craft paper to put the Diamond paste on and progressively polish the shaft. Never ever put the crank in the case until you have hot water and soap (dawn) washed and dried the crank
Doing the Tee Dee performance mods I polished the crank shafts with this stuff from MidwayUSA
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/896051/dmt-sharpener-dia-paste-diamond-compound-1-3-and-6-micron-kit?cm_vc=ProductFinding
Most of the Crank shaft modification folks, including Paul Gibeault recommend using Emory cloth around 600 or higher grit. I polity object as the clearance between the case and crank on Anodized or bushed engines on the smaller engines is critical.
The three grits of Diamond paste: Copper= 6 micron/4000 mesh/ Yellow= 3 micron/8000 mesh/ and Gray= 1 micron 15,000 mesh can be used to super polish any Cox crank shaft without reducing the diameter too much. (at least my expensive .0001 tolerance caliper sez so)
Just leave the bore of the anodized crank case super clean and do all the work on the crank shaft until you can barely notice very little (say again VERY LITTLE) side play...in fact I swap around until I find the tight combination then polish/hone the crank until it has no real drag (heavy end falls down on it's own like Paul G suggests)
I use a small drill press to hold the Crank shaft at low RPM and use thin strips of heavy craft paper to put the Diamond paste on and progressively polish the shaft. Never ever put the crank in the case until you have hot water and soap (dawn) washed and dried the crank
fredvon4- Top Poster
-
Posts : 4000
Join date : 2011-08-26
Age : 68
Location : Lampasas Texas
Re: Product recommendation
Thanks Fred. I'm going to be polishing a Norvel crank soon and I'll refer to your recommendation.
Rusty
Rusty
_________________
Don't Panic!
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
...and never Ever think about how good you are at something...
while you're doing it!
My Hot Rock & Blues Playlist
RknRusty- Rest In Peace
- Posts : 10869
Join date : 2011-08-10
Age : 68
Location : South Carolina, USA
Re: Product recommendation
Rusty, like you, one of my Aero .049 Norvel engines just would not run right and from you and ken I explored and found a very tight crank to case condition. At the time I had a Pine Wood derby axle/wheel polishing kit that included a tube of diamond paste. That was what I used to make the NV sing properly. Later I found the Knife polishing kit at MidwayUSA with three progressively finer grits.
Since I don't have any mills or lathes or other metal working machinery, I find that I can make do with normal shop tools and good products like the diamond paste. Years ago I would use tooth paste or Bon Ami / Comet bathroom cleaners in wet slurry to clearance or polish tight fitting parts. This stuff is a tad pricey but a little goes a long long way and is easier to control than my use of abrasive cleaners
Since I don't have any mills or lathes or other metal working machinery, I find that I can make do with normal shop tools and good products like the diamond paste. Years ago I would use tooth paste or Bon Ami / Comet bathroom cleaners in wet slurry to clearance or polish tight fitting parts. This stuff is a tad pricey but a little goes a long long way and is easier to control than my use of abrasive cleaners
fredvon4- Top Poster
-
Posts : 4000
Join date : 2011-08-26
Age : 68
Location : Lampasas Texas
Another recommendation
I love surgical blades over Exacto for many of my hobby projects
I get my handles and blades from Havalon
http://www.havalon.com/
Lower right is a Lowes Kobalt Exacto style kit with a decent selection of blades usually on sale for a low price
The photo shows variations of blades and the different handles for the Havalon stuff
Other folks can use this thread to post your great shop tools and product recommendations
I get my handles and blades from Havalon
http://www.havalon.com/
Lower right is a Lowes Kobalt Exacto style kit with a decent selection of blades usually on sale for a low price
The photo shows variations of blades and the different handles for the Havalon stuff
Other folks can use this thread to post your great shop tools and product recommendations
fredvon4- Top Poster
-
Posts : 4000
Join date : 2011-08-26
Age : 68
Location : Lampasas Texas
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