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"Cox .049 Circa 1975, custom."



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McCoy "Red heads"    Empty McCoy "Red heads"

Post  rsv1cox Thu May 14, 2015 8:55 am

A few of you have been having fun restoring and painting the "red" heads of these old McCoys so I thought I would join the fun.

This assortment was on ebay for awhile with no takers. It was offered at only $15 BIN or best offer. I tossed ten bucks at the seller and he took it. I figure the propellers alone were worth that.

McCoy "Red heads"    McCoy%20and%20props_zpsnpajo1v6

Here's the same engine for $59.95 or best offer. I think I will offer $15.... Smile

http://www.ebay.com/itm/McCoy-35-Glow-Plug-Red-Head-Model-Airplane-Engine-NOS-10-Propeller-SWEET-LOOK-/111646972671?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19fead9aff
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Post  Mark Boesen Thu May 14, 2015 9:28 am

Lol, admit it you just wanted the Testors engine!

We know the red paint was there to make the engine pretty and to help sell it. Years ago i thought...hmm, let's see: socal company (hotrods) what color would you use? Chevy small block! Wrong, it was a Ford engine color?
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Post  rsv1cox Thu May 14, 2015 10:55 am

Guilty! Smile

I remember Ford blue, Chevy orange.....
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Post  Mark Boesen Thu May 14, 2015 3:19 pm

Yea, that what i thought? I don't remember Ford engines being red either? But it came from a reliable source and the recommended color is a Ford engine red? Unless its a tractor color?
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Post  rsv1cox Thu May 14, 2015 3:35 pm

Maybe, Ford "N" series engines were a pleasent shade of red, later series used blue.  Love the N series, my first tractor ride.

Ford "N"

McCoy "Red heads"    Ford%20N_zpstwlebnda

Ford blue

McCoy "Red heads"    Ford%20blue_zpsviikgz1o

Darn, I was a good looking fella back then. Smile
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Post  rsv1cox Sat May 16, 2015 4:43 pm

Got the McCoys and props today. Thrilled.....Huh...

McCoy "Red heads"    MGA%20SNJ%20Engines%20props%20023_zpswtj02aws

The .35 is missing some head screws and looks to be a home made gasket, but otherwise ok. The .049 is a mess, balsa and glue all over but both are complete and the mounting holes are not over drilled. The props are a mixture. I don't know what I would use a 7/3 for.

McCoy "Red heads"    MGA%20SNJ%20Engines%20props%20025_zpsv7gebqtj
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Post  Ken Cook Sat May 16, 2015 8:11 pm

DO yourself a favor and don't use the nylon props . Their age and composition usually results in a thrown blade. The Top Flite nylon props while they were a good prop when new is always suspect nowadays due to being 30 + years old. Boiling doesn't fix them. Ken
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat May 16, 2015 9:55 pm

rsv1cox wrote:Maybe, Ford "N" series engines were a pleasent shade of red, later series used blue.  Love the N series, my first tractor ride.

Ford "N"

McCoy "Red heads"    Ford%20N_zpstwlebnda

Ford blue

McCoy "Red heads"    Ford%20blue_zpsviikgz1o

Darn, I was a good looking fella back then.  Smile

Here is my old girl.

McCoy "Red heads"    4ABb5hU

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Post  getback Sun May 17, 2015 8:00 am

McCoy "Red heads"    Sep05_10 That's not a McCoy Ron. Nice get there Bob , I am enjoying running my 19 and after about 6-7 Oz. fuel is really sounding good and loud lol!
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Post  rsv1cox Tue May 19, 2015 8:39 am

I'm hot to get this engine restored. It's going to need all new machine screws and gaskets which are on the way. But I don't know how to remove the cylinder. Is it screwed on or just held on by the three cylinder head screws? If it's screwed on is a strap wrench the only thing to use to unscrew it?

McCoy "Red heads"    SNJ%20and%20MGA%20017_zpsvecp7z3i

I want to media blast it (nice thread ian) then reblue the cylinder with gun blue and paint the head with VHT automotive.
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Post  TDbandit Tue May 19, 2015 10:20 am

The cylinder should just slip straight out, it's probably gum stuck in the case, Take a heat gun to it and get it hot and it take a gloved hand and pull on it while twisting it back and fourth just remember to replace the gasket underneath the cylinder of course you probably know that. Smile (Bandit)
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Post  rsv1cox Tue May 19, 2015 11:58 am

Thanks,  I thought it must be just a straight pull out as any threads would have to be quite shallow, just wanted to be sure before I put it in the toaster oven for a bit.
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Post  TDbandit Tue May 19, 2015 4:44 pm

rsv1cox wrote:Thanks,  I thought it must be just a straight pull out as any threads would have to be quite shallow, just wanted to be sure before I put it in the toaster oven for a bit.
No problem! Smile
BTW I forgot to mention this and you probably already know when you begin to attempt to remove the cylinder, Make sure the piston is free and at BDC before you start twisting the cylinder, If you twist it and the piston is stuck you could damage or even break the rod! (Bandit)
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Post  rsv1cox Tue May 19, 2015 5:11 pm

[quote="Cribbs74"]
rsv1cox wrote:Maybe, Ford "N" series engines were a pleasent shade of red, later series used blue.  Love the N series, my first tractor ride.

Here is my old girl.

McCoy "Red heads"    4ABb5hU


That's a good looking Dodge pickup too. What year is it? There is one just like it not to far from me. I traded my 2003 GMC Sonoma for a new Honda Pilot and I'm missing my truck.
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Post  rsv1cox Tue May 19, 2015 5:13 pm

TDbandit wrote:
rsv1cox wrote:Thanks,  I thought it must be just a straight pull out as any threads would have to be quite shallow, just wanted to be sure before I put it in the toaster oven for a bit.
No problem! Smile
BTW I forgot to mention this and you probably already know when you begin to attempt to remove the cylinder, Make sure the piston is free and at BDC before you start twisting the cylinder, If you twist it and the piston is stuck you could damage or even break the rod! (Bandit)

Thanks, glad that you reminded me.

Bob
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue May 19, 2015 9:48 pm

That's a good looking Dodge pickup too.  What year is it?  There is one just like it not to far from me.  I traded my 2003 GMC Sonoma for a new Honda Pilot and I'm missing my truck.

Bob, it's a '72 model.

Sorry for the thread hijack, I wasn't thinking.
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Post  rsv1cox Wed May 20, 2015 6:10 am

Cribbs74 wrote:That's a good looking Dodge pickup too.  What year is it?  There is one just like it not to far from me.  I traded my 2003 GMC Sonoma for a new Honda Pilot and I'm missing my truck.

Bob, it's a '72 model.

Sorry for the thread hijack, I wasn't thinking.

No hijack, my threads are always open to off topic adventures especially when vintage vehicles are involved.  Smile

BTW - That's not me sitting on that Blue tractor. He's probably got hair sitting under that hat. Smile
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Post  rsv1cox Wed May 20, 2015 1:07 pm

Progress:

McCoy "Red heads"    Mc%20red%20head%20001_zpsuo2skzfj

McCoy "Red heads"    Mc%20red%20head%20002_zpsyi6r8ui2

McCoy "Red heads"    Mc%20red%20head%20005_zps3zs2p5vi

McCoy "Red heads"    Mc%20red%20head%20008_zpslwajknh3

McCoy "Red heads"    Mc%20red%20head%20010_zpspsxgm7rb

Waiting for new gaskets and machine screws.

Took a hint from a poster here and used ArmorAll to coat the sand (media) blasted pieces. Used gun blue on the cylinder. VHT engine paint on the head.
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed May 20, 2015 1:27 pm

Excellent job on the bluing! Case lools good too. I actually think it looks nicer than the shiny case.
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Post  chevyiron420 Wed May 20, 2015 4:01 pm

Dont forget the little plastic thingamabob that goes in the crank pin. She is looking good.
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Post  rsv1cox Wed May 20, 2015 4:11 pm

chevyiron420 wrote:Dont forget the little plastic thingamabob that goes in the crank pin. She is looking good.

Hmmm, missed that. I didn't sandblast the crank or piston assembly just took it apart cleaned with 0000 steel wool and oil then put it back together exactly as it came apart. Didn't see a plastic thingy. Is it meant to keep the pin in the piston or prehaps provide a barrier to disassembly,it slid right out.
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Post  TDbandit Wed May 20, 2015 5:03 pm

I think it's there to control crank endplay and to keep the rod from walking back and forth too much on the crank pin. It's a little white nylon plug that fits into the hole on the end of the crank pin. (Bandit)


Last edited by TDbandit on Wed May 20, 2015 7:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Oldenginerod Wed May 20, 2015 5:13 pm

TDbandit wrote:I think it's there to control crank runout and to keep the rod from walking back and forth too much on the crank pin. It's a little white nylon plug that fits into the hole on the end of the crank pin. (Bandit)
Some early engines had a brass one. Chellie's gasket sets contain a new plastic one.
Rod.
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Post  rsv1cox Wed May 20, 2015 6:29 pm

Oldenginerod wrote:
TDbandit wrote:I think it's there to control crank runout and to keep the rod from walking back and forth too much on the crank pin. It's a little white nylon plug that fits into the hole on the end of the crank pin. (Bandit)
Some early engines had a brass one. Chellie's gasket sets contain a new plastic one.
Rod.

This is the only set that I found on ebay for McCoy .35 redheads

http://www.ebay.com/itm/McCoy-35-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Set-of-2-Upper-and-Lower-NIP-/321370063465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad3260269

I also bought the crankcase set both from the same vendor larrystoys I believe.  I could not find Chellies sets unless this is one in the same.
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Post  rsv1cox Wed May 20, 2015 7:01 pm

There is nothing in the pin, just a hole straight through.

McCoy "Red heads"    Red%20head%20piston%20002_zpsjb38hdwc

I did find the correct 4/40 head and backplate screws in my Brownells kit., just have to cut the backplate screws to fit.

McCoy "Red heads"    Red%20head%20piston%20003_zpsau922cdp

Still waiting for those kits to arrive. Seller is in Michigan but they are coming from California. Vendor probably.
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