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Post  NEW222 Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:09 pm

Hi all.  Looking at getting some more dope to finish my planes with.  I searched the local hobby shops only to find the high prices of the stuff.  So I got hold of a local aircraft supplier and got a good price on quart cans of Randolph Aero Products.  So I am going to pick up a quart of butyrate dope, but have a question.  I was offered Tautening, and Non-Tautening versions with minimal price difference.  So my question is which would best be suited to using in my application.  I am MAINLY building profile aircraft (profile fuselage and plank wing) with the odd built up one (full fuse built up wing going on the board soon.  Anyways, I am looking for experiences and or help with which would better be suited to my needs.  I am mostly considering the Tautening as it would be suited best to my needs, I believe.  Thank you.

P.S.  This is also posted elsewhere on another site, so if you see it there, you do not have to answer twice, unless you like to.  Thanks again.
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Post  Ken Cook Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:27 pm

I use Sig as much as I can. Why? It works the best and has the highest fuel proofing qualities I've found. NO dope is fuel proof. When dealing with 1/2A, high nitro fuel is like lacquer thinner. All of my top coats are Sig Lite Coat. Sig Lite Coat is a the clearest of clears next to Brodak Crystal Clear and it has proved to me to be the highest in fuel resistance. Randolph makes Sig and also Brodak.They all have different working, drying, and spraying characteristics that are different between them. I prefer Sig due to it's brushing characteristics, it has the slowest  dry time. This allows for less blushing and a shinier overall finish and the option to go back into the work without it dragging. You can't do that with Brodak. Brodak also and almost always requires an additional product ( retarder) to brush and dry properly.  Randolph usually has tint in their clear unless specified not to. Butyrate shrinks forever but when Sig Lite Coat (Non taughtening)  is used as a final, it prevents the twisting and warping that can take place. Sig Lite Coat can be used on planked surfaces from start to finish. It will not shrink wrinkles from silkspan or tissue. On freeflight models I use Sig Lite Coat exclusively. It has that low of a shrink rate. The Randolph butyrate your referring to would crush a freefight and even a larger model. It should be plasticized but I know many that use it just thinned from the can. If you don't require the need of a taughtening dope, I wouldn't personally use it then but that's me.  A solid planked wing while stronger than a framed wing in terms of torsional strength is still subject to twisting and warping. This can be greatly compounded for instance if you paint the model and place it to dry on it's gear. The top of the wing dries faster than the underside causing the solvents to be trapped underneath which causes the wing to twist.

                    I'm sorry if this was confusing, I was just trying to explain that dopes have other characteristics aside from their shrinking abilities and knowing what your dealing with is half the battle.
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Post  NEW222 Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:48 pm

Thank you for your input, and no need to apologize for making my head spin, but this is what I had asked for. I have done a bit more reading around online, and am now thinking that the Non-Taunting would be the better way to go for me. After reading a bit here and there, I am getting the vibe that even though the other one is Non-Taunting, it still has a bit of the taunting characteristic. So due to the fact I will mainly use it on profile and all sheet birds, I SHOULD get away with the non-taunting version. I will however call the supplier tomorrow and ask a couple of questions there as well.
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Post  roddie Wed Oct 07, 2015 9:46 pm

I don't have a whole lot of experience with dope as a shrinking agent. I would think you'd want the tautening-type to shrink fabric though. Ken Cook is real knowledgeable about what's out there today that works well. I will be in your position.. as I have several larger open-framework models to build/cover someday. I have some Aero-Gloss.. but I'd rather use what I have left of it on a few select small models. I have approx. 2 tin quarts of clear, 8+ ounces of thinner and some assorted colors. Not enough of any one color to finish a large model.. but enough for several 1/2A size different-colored ones. I need a solution for the bigger airplanes.. if I want to try my hand at it.

I see Ken C. commented. (I started this an hour ago.. Rolling Eyes ) I'm not surprised the thread got some action.
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Post  NEW222 Wed Oct 07, 2015 11:11 pm

I had also forgot to mention that I am also using this for 1/2a airplanes only.
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