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Cox Engine of The Month
September-2021
crankbndr's

"Cherry Bomb" .051 engine

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Post  NEW222 Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:18 pm

Hi all. So, I just wanted to share my birthday present I got today from myself! I had been watching this engine for sale online locally, and today I finally bit the bullet and bought it for myself. It was advertised in good condition, no box or papers, so thought it was used, but it DID appear in good condition online. After an e-mail and a phone call, I was on my way for it. He was in a slight rush to go out, so we met in a public parking lot. He quickly came to my truck, handed me the engine, took my money then we both parted ways within 1 minute. I got home, got in slight trouble, because I left home in a hurry without explaining where I was going, as the better half was almost done my 'special' dinner she had planned for today. So we eat, then I took these pictures of the engine for all to enjoy. As I go put it away for the evening, I took one more look at it. It now appears to be new, and unrun. No castor or any fuel residue anywhere on this engine. No signs of mounting at all! So, it appeared to be a good deal for me now. Anyways, I have to study up a bit on these engines so I know what I'm doing and don't damage it up. Mainly what prop is good will be the main thing as I will use my Sig 5% nitro, 25% all castor fuel topped up to 29% castor overall. Should be good for a vintage engine. If anyone here has anything to add to my care and feeding of the engine, I am all ears. Thank you, and enjoy!

Birthday Enya.... Enya_110

Birthday Enya.... Enya_111
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Post  dckrsn Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:40 pm

Well, happy birthday then. Sounds like a good one.
Here's some general instructions for Enya engines,
to get you started. Fuel and needle setting at least.
http://rojobcn.com/catalogos/enya2006/enya200601.pdf
Happy Birthday
Bob
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Post  NEW222 Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:43 pm

Thank you for the help, and wishes.
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Post  Oldenginerod Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:52 pm

The instructions that Bob posted a link to are best to follow. While castor oil is important, there's no need to add extra. It'll just make more mess. 20% is all you'll ever need. 25% is fine but messy. 29% is just unnecessary. I ran Enyas as a kid and just bought fuel. No idea about oil or nitro content. Just got what the shop had on the shelf. I didn't know tuning so well at the time and only ever peaked the engines out before launch. It never did them any harm and those same engines still run fine today.
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Post  Admin Thu Sep 15, 2016 10:26 pm

Looks like you had a good birthday! Happy Birthday

_________________
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Post  NEW222 Thu Sep 15, 2016 10:36 pm

Thank you. Yes it was good overall, but the icing on the cake was me buying the engine for myself. What birthday would be complete without something plane related? Lol. Very Happy
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Post  KariFS Thu Sep 15, 2016 11:44 pm

Happy Birthday Beer Cheers

Glad you had a good one, Sorry we missed it... But that IS one sweet looking Enya!

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Post  NEW222 Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:28 am

Thank you for the wishes and compliments.
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Post  Oldenginerod Fri Sep 16, 2016 5:31 am

I purchased an identical engine brand new in around 1976. The box says $29, a big investment for a 14 year old back then, but I'd just purchased a ready-built Aeroflyte 36" span Spitfire off a High School teacher and the Taipan 2.5cc Diesel didn't give it the performance it needed. The Enya brought it to life, but it was never flown much because the plane had a bad tendancy to roll in due to the extra torque of the Enya, so it probably has only about 10 minutes air time. Still bolted to the airframe in the shed and was never cleaned up after its last flight 38 years ago. Last year I flushed some fuel through the tank, gave it a prime and gently rocked it to free the engine up, once free I connected the battery & it burst into life, spluttering out years of accumulated gunk and congealed castor oil until the tank ran dry. That's why I love my Enyas. Ever reliable. Only problem is, it looks like I'll nearly have to destroy the nose of the plane to get it loose as the mounting screws have rusted solid.
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Post  getback Fri Sep 16, 2016 7:48 am

Happy Birthday Happy Birthday Money Toss Money Toss  Jaw Drop  NICE Engine New222 what you going to put that baby in ? I be liking some ENYAS too they can bee a pain in the A to get broken in if new as yours appears , use a test stand and see how it starts/runs , once broke in the easy start kicks in Beers O yea the prop 8 x 3-4 in that range .


Last edited by getback on Fri Sep 16, 2016 7:52 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : prop size)
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Post  gcb Fri Sep 16, 2016 7:49 am

New222,

Happy Birthday!

I acquired one of those Enya 15's at a club swap meet many years ago. I'm guessing that the owner sold it because it didn't run well. Upon investigation I found that someone had installed the piston, cylinder and head backwards. When I reassembled that engine correctly, it ran fine.

As mentioned previously, 20% lube is enough. I would suggest at least half castor. If you bring up the instructions listed, no matter how much nitro it always suggests 20% castor. The only two engines (that I am aware of) that folks suggest using 29% castor is with the Fox .35 stunt and the McCoy .35 red head. For coweled installations the Fox has inadequate cooling fins so some of the heat is carried off in the exhaust. For the McCoy it is metallurgy. Still, some folks use much less lube successfully.

I still have mine and you should have yours for years.

George
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Post  gcb Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:51 am

As with most things, there is never only one answer but my break-in procedure for iron/steel setups seems to be quick and effective"

First, remove the backplate (or in this case, the crankshaft assembly) and check for swarf (filings, etc.) in the crankcase. Seldom have I found anything but occasionally...

Run it on a bench! That way you have total control over the situation. Two minute runs. End the run by clamping or removing the fuel line so it is not cooled by fuel. Let it cool naturally to ambient temperature.

First run...slobbering rich to remove anything you missed during the inspection. Allow it to cool to ambient temperature. Each heating/cooling is called a heat cycle.

Second/third run...needle it up to just where it breaks from 4-cycle to 2-cycle.

Subsequent runs every other run lean it a couple of clicks but NOT above peak. If at any time it starts to slow down (sag) stop it and let it cool. Richen the needle a couple of clicks and continue.

How many runs depends on the particular engine, but this procedure will let your iron/steel engine be all it can be.

George
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Post  rsv1cox Fri Sep 16, 2016 10:46 am

Welcome to the Enya club. You have one of the most popular Enya's ever offered, a fine runner and a great looker too.

Bob
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Post  fredvon4 Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:31 pm

I only own 3 Enya engines all .35 5224s

my original from the early 70s, I toted it in a box all over the world. It was a Christmas gift from my dad( I think 1971) who always had to help me keep the cheap McCoy 35 running

It was a few years before I had a Fox 35 and then off to play army and husband/father....leaving the model airplane hobby for about 30 years

when I returned, one of the first things I did was find the old Enya, clean it and get a prop and the right fuel...ran just fine so I got two more off evil bay and a few different venturis and NVAs

One of my dreaded tasks today is cataloging all the engines I have acquired recently.

The original Enya is not on a plane ---and as I fondled it--- I got the urge to bolt it up and make it sing....funny how the smell and sound of a engine from my/our youth can transport you back to that garage/school yard and time....

I have a few electric motors and associated crap from my brief RC adventure...I doubt they will ever invoke my nostalgia inner child

I dearly want one of the new release Enya .35 5224s with red head but still balk at shuttrmans ($149) price...so I bought a bunch of NOS OS engines (5) for a little less cost from Herman Green

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Post  rsv1cox Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:39 pm

Dreaded task Fred?  One at a time Fred,one at a time.  But they do add up.

ENYA Inventory

I dumped the list Fred as unnecessary, doesn't prove anything, and takes up to much space.

Bob


Last edited by rsv1cox on Fri Sep 16, 2016 5:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  fredvon4 Fri Sep 16, 2016 1:38 pm

Interesting obsession Bob... I have noted before you had a great many Enya engines

looks like about 6 weeks to run one Enya .09 per day...

I sure hope you were able to cut n past that list... would have taken me a full day to type it and a other day to proof read and correct...grin

REF..engine collection....me too......not many Enya's but close to 90 different engines and 30+ kits

Mostly I try to get two of each I want, one for a project, and a spare (since most now spare parts are unobtainable)

If I recall correctly you did this along with a fetish for sports cars and such

The real funny thing is--- if you and I combined or collective engine and motor sports collections...we would still not equal a TRUE collector.... including some of our CEF brethren here who are
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Post  rsv1cox Fri Sep 16, 2016 2:44 pm

Yes,  Guy's like Kim, Rod, Jacob, Mark Boeson, Bad Bill and others.  Others outside the forum too like the Australian's often mentioned here and my friends Bob Brooks and Bob Allen.  

But the truth is that list represents about half of my collection.  I only listed one Cox engine and I would hate to count all of those, plus many Testers, McCoy's, Wen Mac's, OK Cubs, Gilberts, Royal Spitfires, Hollands, Atwoods, Norvels, a lone Supertigre (A wonderful engine) and some I can't ID.  

Yes, copy and paste.  I have let this list slip lately, a few Enya's have not been added.  Got to do an inventory.  Sad

Got one less Miata though.  Thanks to Craig's list the green one has gone to see fun times with a new owner.

Birthday Enya.... Two_mi10
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Post  Ken Cook Sat Sep 17, 2016 6:04 am

I've done extensive testing with the Enya III. I have a lot of dislikes with it while I do find some positives. While the bolt pattern is the same as the FP/LA .15 the nose is longer on the Enya not making the engine univeral on some models.  My first strong  dislike is it's weight. Most .15's are generally heavy. I did find the engine to start easily, hot starting was very poor.  This is more than likely due to the thick steel liner which heat soaks quickly once the engine stops resulting in expansion until it cools. I'm a fan of the Enya spraybar and needle. This is critical to the engine's run with the correct size venturi. This engine came with 2 venturi's and without measuring them I couldn't tell you the size. It didn't like the smaller. Many will tell you what prop size to use and what the instructions say. I can tell you first hand, the engine will swing the props in the instruction manual, this doesn't mean it works for flying the plane. Small engines like small props and in control line drive is everything. It's far better to turn more rpm's than it is to lug the engine. That being said , a 7x4-7x6 works very well and keeps this engine in it's happy stage. A 8x4 works, but depending on the size and weight of the model, it usually begins to overheat halfway through the tank.

              As mentioned, spraybar diameter is critical, so if you doink this engine damaging the needle and spraybar you really need to seek the proper size. While all of the OS FP/LA selections fit, it's the FP/LA .15 needle you need to seek. Tank configurations are also very important for this engine. It strongly dislikes outboard mounted tanks as on a profile. This engine like most  will go very lean throughout the flight so adjusting the needle is essential to a good run which means setting it off rich on a standard vent tank. I just found the 3303 to be very touchy to this. It requires the setting to be extremely rich so that  it barely gets off of the ground. Uniflow tanks will assist, but if you can sink the tank into the fuse centering the tank behind the engine this will go away and no more problems. A uniflow setup is far superior to a standard vent setup because it keeps the setting pretty much the same throughout the flight.

          If a muffler is used, your looking for nothing but a headache. This engine will overheat very quickly and will plague you with seizing runs. The Enya muffler is the worst and most restrictive. One style Enya muffler will work but is rather hard to find. The Enya IV has a larger cylinder head with deeper fins not to mention no obstructions in the exhaust port casting. I feel this is due to the above overheating problems that I experienced. R/C flyers don't experience the drag control line engines do not to mention running wide open for 7 minutes.

              Plugs, this is essential for a good run.  Your picture shows a Fox plug in the head. That plug is a very bad choice. If you want to try the engine on the bench it works, don't use that plug to fly with. I can tell you numerous  problems not to mention wrecked planes using those plugs. The Enya likes 20% oil, if you use more, unexpected shut offs can take place like someone turned off the switch. This is why quality hot plugs are essential. (Enya #3, Thunderbolt r/c long, K&B 1L )  I have used 25% Sig Champion with success but due  to overheating it varnished up the cylinder quickly needing to be de varnished because of it. If the engine is new, expect problems for at least a gallon of fuel. I no longer put up with that and I lap the piston into the cylinder. The Enya is fit too tight in my honest opinion. You will hear the term " You can never wear out an Enya". Well if you keep running it and it's seizing up, you will ruin it. The seizing takes place near the end of the tank when it begins going lean. You will note that it's heating up, sagging, and it will lock right up. No panic though, let it cool and it will be fine.

          The engine offers a substantial run when run in a wet 2 stroke but it won't 4 cycle like larger baffle top piston engines. This is pretty standard of most .15's as they like to rev. In the event the 4 screws holding on the nose of the engine even remotely comes loose, the engine will plague you with shut offs and headaches. Check the screws to insure tightness. It may take a few tries but they will eventually stay tight. Keep the nitro in the 10% range with 20-22% oil and this engine will be happy all day long. Ken
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Post  NEW222 Sun Sep 18, 2016 2:14 pm

Thank you for the help, and very informative post.
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Post  roddie Sun Sep 18, 2016 6:56 pm

Happy belated Birthday bud! How was that dinner?... Laughing Did you have to sit and talk afterwards.. anxious to go and fondle your new treasure? My bad...

My .19 looks like the same vintage.

Birthday Enya.... My_eny10
Birthday Enya.... My_eny11

I hope you enjoy your Birthday present!!! Thumbs Up
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Post  NEW222 Sun Sep 18, 2016 7:59 pm

@roddie wrote:Happy belated Birthday bud! How was that dinner?... Laughing Did you have to sit and talk afterwards.. anxious to go and fondle your new treasure? My bad...

I hope you enjoy your Birthday present!!! Thumbs Up

Thank you. Dinner? I know I ate it, but honestly forgot to taste it, cause I wanted to look at my new toy! But yes, I had to sit and talk for a brief period just to keep the peace. Now that I am back home, I will have a little time to play later this week then off again for the weekend. But, after this weekend, I will have the rest of them free to my availability to do what I want. Got a couple engine that need to be run, and I will realistically run them in queue.
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