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Post  duke.johnson Sun Oct 08, 2017 7:46 pm

We have such a vast knowledge base in this group and a lot of very smart people. How’s that for a set up? I could really use your help.

I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 “ol Blue” and she’s having a headlight problem. A little history, years ago, I had the day time running light module go out. So I disconnected it and have run without DTRL’s for about ten years, I don’t think this is part of the problem but thought I’d mention it. Right now, the problem is, I feel like the low beams are dimmer than normal and when on high beam they will just turn off. The lights will come back on if I switch back to low beams.

If I turn off the engine, the lights don’t seem to dim anymore. And if I start the engine , it doesn’t seem to get brighter.

Any ideas? Anyone ever have this problem ?
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Oct 08, 2017 7:53 pm

Grounds. Clean them up. Sand down to bare metal.
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Post  TDbandit Sun Oct 08, 2017 8:50 pm

Cribbs74 wrote:Grounds. Clean them up. Sand down to bare metal.
Beat me to it lol
But yup as Cribbs stated, check your grounds, engine to chassis, chassis to body negative batt terminal (both ends), grounds under dash and anything related and clean. repair or replace any that look questionable and for those ground wires attached to the firewall, make sure they are making metal to metal contact i've seen more than my fair share of firewall grounds just slapped on by the factory without removing the paint. About 98% of all electrical problems in automotive and aircraft DC systems can be attributed to loose, dirty/corroded grounds. If it looks suspicious, check it out. Also if your truck has those un-insolated flat shunt ground cables and they look greenish replace them. (Bandit)
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Post  duke.johnson Sun Oct 08, 2017 10:16 pm

Thanks. I’ll start checking
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Post  NEW222 Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:58 pm

Coming from another that had a 1995 Ram 1500 Ol' Blue here, it had a similar problem with the DRL module. If memory serves me correct, if we unplugged the module, all was good. But here DRL is mandatory in Manitoba for certain years an newer, so we opted to get a used DRL module and used it till we sold her. So, I would personally try a new/used module and see what happens. Just my .02
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Post  KariFS Mon Oct 09, 2017 12:10 am

In addition to ground connections, it would be good to also check the battery cables and terminals for corrosion. I once had a corroded battery cable (forgot which one) in my T-bird, it would cause all kinds of erratic electrical gremlins. Both ends of the cable looked fine but it was almost completely broken inside the insulation, about an inch from the battery end.

Another time, on my Saab 9000, the surface between battery pole and cable terminal was corroded. Everything looked fine on the surface and even after disassembly it took a closer look inside the terminal to figure it out.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
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Post  Marleysky Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:26 am

I think I remember reading in the Rock Auto monthly newsletter to check the simple things first.  Did you verify that the high beam filaments are not just burnt out?  There was a "short" story where the guy ripped apart his wiring loom looking  for a short, only to find the bulb was toast. The others advise about checking grounds is next in priority. Next, if haven't already done so is to search and find a Dodge Truck forum or Mopar fan forum, and search their threads for similar problems. I know I found "Fred's TDI page" a valuable source of information about Vw Jetta Diesels and their quirks...and their problems with grounds. Like the one under, I say under the battery which can lead to very frustrating glitches if not kept clean of corrosion....under the battery sheesh!

Here try this: http://www.ramforumz.com/showthread.php?t=232644


Last edited by Marleysky on Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:35 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  crankbndr Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:33 am

What about the high, low switch itself? Seems like a place to start looking. Is the alternator putting out?
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Post  fit90 Mon Oct 09, 2017 5:05 pm

crankbndr wrote:What about the high, low switch itself? Seems like a place to start looking. Is the alternator putting out?

Ditto!

I have had a couple vehicles with similar problems that ended up needing new switches, especially column mounted switches/handles. Good luck with it.
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