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JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Empty JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion

Post  OVERLORD on Thu Nov 15, 2018 2:33 pm

2 weeks ago, I bought an electric Jerobee Porsche 917. The car has the large rear wheels and front wheels with oilite bearings. There is no RC gear or batteries. The body is a bit tatty but can be repaired.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4410

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I bought it with the idea of replacing the motor by a cox TeeDee. The original versions are rare and when they come up for sale they cost an arm and a leg. The transformation is straightforward and easy to carry out. I started with taking everything apart and giving the chassis a good clean. There was sand and dust near the rear axle and motor.

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The biggest intervention to do is to cut the left aft part of the chassis away where the flywheel goes. The TeeDee sits lower than the Babe Bee. I removed the plastic with a scroll saw with good results. The lexan chassis is very hard and with a cutter knife, I could only make an indent.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4511

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4510

I then mounted the engine with the heat sink. I have to thank Bob (rsv1cox) for sending me a while ago the right bolts that fit the heat sink.

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After assembling the rear axle with bearings and the right rear wheel, I needed the correct driven gear that matches with the small pinion. The gear that was on the car has 52 teeth of which one was repaired. This gear became too small. I had 2 new spares, a 54 and a 56 teeth gear. It was the 54T gear that matched. On the new gear, some plastic from the manufacturing process on the side needs to be removed as this side rubs gainst the clutch housing.

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Still to fit: tank, brakes, nylon central chassis plate...
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Post  OVERLORD on Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:59 am

The brake system is straightforward. A plastic strip is pulled around the clutch housing by the throttle servo which then brakes the car. The brake can be made out of around-the-house parts: a nylon tie wrap, flat steel from a coke can and piano wire. first, I drilled a 2mm hole in the head of the tie wrap and a second hole in the left side of the chassis rignt below the axle. I fixed the tie wrap with a bras wood screw.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4517

Before mounting the brake lever, the holes need to be drilled for the chassis pan as these are also used for the brake lever brackets. The location where the holes should be drilled is indicated onto the chassis.

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The forward hooks to attach the chassis pan are not pre drilled.

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The brake lever is bent 1,5mm piano wire. The brackets are made from coke can sheet. This is akward to drill.

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The tie wrap can now be connected to the brake lever. I drilled 2x 1,5mm holes in the tie wrap for adjustment if necessary. The tie wrap then goes onto the hook of the lever.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4713
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Post  fredvon4 on Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:38 am

Do not for one minuet believe lack of responses means anything...Lots of us are following and fascinated with this conversion
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Post  roddie on Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:10 pm

Nice work Lieven.. That whole linkage design has fascinated me ever since I first learned of these models.
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Post  getback on Mon Nov 26, 2018 7:59 am

She is looking GOOD Lieven , you make me feel like a parts replace'r more than a Mechanic , i have seen these and they are expensive.
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Post  OVERLORD on Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:57 am

Thanks guys. This weekend I installed the 1oz Sullivan tank. The silicon tube inside the tank is so short that the clunk hardly moves.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4710

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4711
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Post  Dave P. on Sun Dec 02, 2018 8:30 pm

Looks great! Can't wait to see it run!
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Post  Cribbs74 on Sun Dec 02, 2018 11:15 pm

You really did do a good job!

As you are pobably well aware the TD struggles in the suction area. You may want to cut the fuel line down as short as possible. It may not be a big concern in a car application, but it might. Either way I am sure you will figure it out. Enjoy!
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Post  OVERLORD on Mon Dec 03, 2018 5:38 am

Cribbs74 wrote:You really did do a good job!

As you are pobably well aware the TD struggles in the suction area. You may want to cut the fuel line down as short as possible. It may not be a big concern in a car application, but it might. Either way I am sure you will figure it out. Enjoy!

Isn't that why Cox put a wire mesh on the air intake?
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Post  OVERLORD on Fri Dec 07, 2018 11:14 am

I made a stop to obtain a constant idle speed, also when applying the brakes. On Jerobees with a Babe Bee or TeeDee, the idle speed is determined by the servo neutral position. As the brake is actioned by the same servo and in opposite direction from revving up, the idle speed will go down more. This can be avoided by making an adjustable stop on the throttle clip.
One side of the servo linkage then need to be spring loaded. That way, the servo can turn further while the throttle ring is against the stop.

I used some aluminium angle stock, a 3mm bolt with nut and a ballpoint spring.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Imgp4811

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Post  crankbndr on Fri Dec 07, 2018 11:42 am

Bravo!! Nice conversion, where did you find that mounting tray. Don't see many for sale.
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Post  OVERLORD on Fri Dec 07, 2018 1:38 pm

crankbndr wrote:Bravo!! Nice conversion, where did you find that mounting tray. Don't see many for sale.

I bought the engine and "accessories" in 1 piece: engine (with LH crankshaft) , crankcase heat sink, head heat sink, aluminium flywheel, fly weights and clutch housing. Finding everything separately would take a lot of time and money.
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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Dec 07, 2018 4:59 pm

OVERLORD wrote:
Cribbs74 wrote:You really did do a good job!

As you are pobably well aware the TD struggles in the suction area. You may want to cut the fuel line down as short as possible. It may not be a big concern in a car application, but it might. Either way I am sure you will figure it out. Enjoy!

Isn't that why Cox put a wire mesh on the air intake?


While it may help in reducing airflow and creating some suction I believe it was more to stop foreign objects from entering the intake. Just trying to help. Run it and see if all is well.
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Post  getback on Sat Dec 08, 2018 7:54 am

One side of the servo linkage then need to be spring loaded. That way, the servo can turn further while the throttle ring is against the stop. wrote:
Want this be bad for the servo with a spring pulling at it or am not seeing the big picture.
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Post  KariFS on Sat Dec 08, 2018 8:37 am

I guess the servo pulls against the spring only when the brake is applied, that is, not often and only for short periods at a time. And the spring is probably not very stiff either, so that it won’t exceed the max torque of the servo.

That is a cool project!
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Post  fredvon4 on Sat Dec 08, 2018 10:41 am

Mudhen or Mark B will know for sure
Long time ago in some Yahoo group discussion the Cox repair center was seeing too many sand destroyed engines and the fix was the screen..... I just assumed the sand ingestion was from the ground use models

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Post  OVERLORD on Fri Dec 14, 2018 1:44 pm

KariFS wrote:I guess the servo pulls against the spring only when the brake is applied, that is, not often and only for short periods at a time. And the spring is probably not very stiff either, so that it won’t exceed the max torque of the servo.

That is a cool project!

That's the way it is. The brake travel should be very little because the band may not block the wheels. Then the car would spin. Below a scetch of the setup I have in mind.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Schema10

Don't take any notice of the drawn positions of the servo arm and the throttle ring.


Last edited by OVERLORD on Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:38 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  getback on Fri Dec 14, 2018 2:12 pm

That makes more since , so that the servo want do that jumping thing tring to do more than is needed to work hopefully will bee enough brake to keep it stopped , a little trial and error should get it to the right spot to work for you . Good idea ! This Site Rocks!
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Post  Cribbs74 on Sat Dec 15, 2018 9:01 am

You really have me wanting one of these Lieven. Do you think a TD.09 mod would be possible?

Ron
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Post  roddie on Sat Dec 15, 2018 10:44 am

fredvon4 wrote:Mudhen or Mark B will know for sure
Long time ago in some Yahoo group discussion the Cox repair center was seeing too many sand destroyed engines and the fix was the screen..... I just assumed the sand ingestion was from the ground use models


I have a Tee Dee .051 with the screen.. but am unsure of the engine's previous history.

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Cox_te10

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Post  OVERLORD on Mon Dec 17, 2018 6:05 am

Cribbs74 wrote:You really have me wanting one of these Lieven. Do you think a TD.09 mod would be possible?

Ron

I think it's possible but such a project will need some machining. There is enough space to mount a 09 transversally. A space of 2" is needed between the flywheel and the Babe Bee engine mount. I haven't got a 09 myself but a look in the instructions sheets indicate a total length of 2 1/32". However, the flywheel fits over the brass prop washer which will gain some space.

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JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Differ10

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That's were the machining chapter starts. The original flywheel needs to be turned out to fit over the 09 prop washer. The thread of the clutch shaft has to be bigger too. For mounting the engine, you need at least 2 aluminium blocks that go under the mounting lugs.

The question is whether the increased power will not chew up the driven gear?
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Post  balogh on Tue Dec 18, 2018 7:37 am

roddie wrote:
I have a Tee Dee .051 with the screen.. but am unsure of the engine's previous history.  

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion Cox_te10


...but you can be sure about its future....many hours of trouble-free top performance and durability....at least my experience. Very Happy
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Post  OVERLORD on Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:15 am

Cribbs74 wrote:You really have me wanting one of these Lieven. Do you think a TD.09 mod would be possible?

Ron

I forgot to mention that you need a CCW crankshaft!!
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Post  fredvon4 on Tue Dec 18, 2018 11:42 am

you mean clock wise or left handed Crank I bet

typically we ref from facing the engine in front

I have several left hand .049 cranks...not sure if the .09 or .15s ever had lefties
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Post  OVERLORD on Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:14 pm

fredvon4 wrote:you mean clock wise or left handed Crank   I bet

typically we ref from facing the engine in front

I have several left hand .049 cranks...not sure if the .09 or .15s ever had lefties

That's what I mean, one that goes the other way around.
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