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Post  OVERLORD on Thu Dec 20, 2018 7:27 am

The bumper that was on the car was in a rough state. The formed edge was cracked, the bottom seemed to have been used to stop a belt sander and the whole thing was curved.

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The bumper is made from nylon and glueing nylon is not an easy task. Generally, it will only bond with heat. I tried with hot glue but that didn't work. Then I found this loctite Kit. It comes with an activator which seems to be Loctite 770.

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This combination of activator and glue works well and according to the package also glues polyethylène and polypropylène.

To straighten the bumper, I used the same glue to stick on a square carbon tube next to the edge.

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The body post was cracked where the screw goes but with a tie wrap, that was a quick fix.
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Post  OVERLORD on Fri Dec 28, 2018 11:24 am

The front wheels on this car had been replaced. As far as I know, all Jerobees that were made before the Lightning 2000 had the classis rimmed wheels and rubber tyres. This car had the Lightning 2000 wheels without rims but with the rubber Jerobee tyres glued on instead of foam tyres.

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This is a period magazine picture of the chassis with electric motor and the classic wheels (in mirror image).

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion - Page 2 Elec_c10

And this is an advert of the Lightning 2000 with the new wheels, oilite bearings and foam tyres

JEROBEE electric to TeeDee conversion - Page 2 Jerobe12

The rubber wheels didn't stick well and were quickly removed without effort. I went shopping on the web to find foam tyres that suited the 35mm wheels. I found and bought these Swiss made tyres

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Once received, I had to adapt the tyre width. I stuck some masking tape onto the foam and marked the right witdh. I could easily cut the tyre to size with a cutter knife.

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The wheels are secured on the stub axles with E clips. 1 was missing and was replaced by a steel wire. I once bought some new ones; they're the same as the clips fitted to the clutch shaft.

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When looking for parts of these cars, it's not good to stick your brains to the name "Jerobee". As they were the pioneers of the 1/12 scale, many dimensions of parts were taken over by Bolink or Associated.

This completed the chassis. Still to fit is the RC gear and the linkages.

Some before/after pictures

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Post  Cribbs74 on Fri Dec 28, 2018 11:31 am

You are almost done! Great job on the wheels and tires, they turned out excellent.
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Post  getback on Sat Dec 29, 2018 9:49 am

Yes she is looking Good ! I think you got the hard part done now and hopefully the electronics will go smoothly Clapping
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Post  OVERLORD on Mon Dec 31, 2018 11:56 am

Thanks for the comments.

The Porsche 917/30 body is rather rough but as it is an original Jerobee body it deserves to be saved. The spoiler is completely detached on the sides and the hole for the rear body is inexistant. I got some plastic sheet from blister packages and glued this on the back of the spoiler near the sides with époxy. the body mounting hole was recreated by pushing a hot brass tube trough the plastic.

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I then sprayed red polyurethane paint on the Inside. To straighten and reinforce the rear spoiler, I glued a piece of coroplast on the Inside. To fix the body on the chassis, I used large Lightning 2000 body hair pins.

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Post  getback on Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:29 pm

SWEET !! That looks nice good job on saving the Porsche Body !! I am taking this all in for when i crash my GTP Happy New Year Very Happy
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Post  rsv1cox on Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:38 pm

Two pages of fascinating reading. Wonderful restoration Lieven.

Interesting/curious stuff here:

http://jerobee.blogspot.com/

Bob
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Post  fredvon4 on Mon Dec 31, 2018 3:23 pm

I met Don Mckay at Bladder Grabber 36 or 37 went to his house and had dinner then bought a bunch of his Fast Combat equipment, engines and a few planes...$800 bucks worth cash money

Had every intention to play in the big boy big block fast combat game

Over the course of the evening Don related to me his involvement in the car hobby industry

I still have his e-mail if some one need to ask a specific car question from I think a guy who probably knows

Don does not do forums or very much at all with the interweb
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Post  OVERLORD on Tue Jan 01, 2019 8:26 am

Glad you like it. The body shell is not perfect. The big cracks were repaired with blobs of hot glue to stitch both edges together quickly while holding them with one hand. The plastic and coroplast was glued with 5min époxy.

I remember that Duke Johnson from Washington knows Don McKay as well. It's been a few years now that I didn't read a post from Duke. I hope he's well.

To store my 2 Jerobees, I avoid to put them away sitting on their wheels. Otherwise, this will create flat spots on the foam tyres after a certain period of time. I use toner cartridge cartons for my printer that I adapt. I cut out the cardboard where the wheels go. The cars sit then on the chassis with the wheels free.

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Post  OVERLORD on Sun May 19, 2019 2:00 am

For mounting the RC gear, it was more easy to remove the chassis pan and to fit the plastic unit from the electic powered car.  The tank fits in the battery bay.

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I covered the original servo holes with sheets of coroplast cut to the size of the servos I will use. The servos are then stuck on with double sided tape.

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I needed to find a piano wire of the right size to fit into the circlips hole of the throttle ring. Piano wire of 1,5mm is too thick. I started trying to reduce the thickness with sand paper but quickly found out that this would take a week. I looked in my drawers and found a paperclip that fitted and straightened it.

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Post  OVERLORD on Wed May 22, 2019 9:36 am

I finished the throttle / brake setup today. This is how it looks like:

IDLE SPEED

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FULL THROTTLE

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BRAKE APPLIED

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Post  gkamysz on Wed May 22, 2019 10:40 am

This is great. I bought a Bolink Nitro Legends kit a while back. Might build it with my son this summer.
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Post  OVERLORD on Thu May 23, 2019 2:50 am

Thanks.

The servo is very tall and the set up turns out to be rather high. Luckily, it all finds a place in the headrest extension.

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Feel free to post pictures of the Bolink and the build.


Last edited by OVERLORD on Mon Jun 10, 2019 9:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  OVERLORD on Mon Jun 10, 2019 3:18 am

The first test of the engine. The idle revs are on the high side and the clutch remains engaged. There seems to be too much play on the throttle ring. With a closed exhaust gap, the engine still runs happily. The engine revs up very well. What a difference with the Babe Bee!


https://youtu.be/OrnDJz7ga5c
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Post  getback on Mon Jun 10, 2019 7:41 am

that should really scoot / is the cyl worn were the ring goes on ?
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Post  1/2A Nut on Mon Jun 10, 2019 9:40 am

Congrats on your mechanical assembly. Small Cox Logo Thumbs Up
Runs hot fast I would use 24% castor and avoid too much reeving since you have no bearings, engine died was lean.
Get it started keep it a bit rich and fun it on the ground to get some airflow fast as you can. Otherwise use a fan
when you are bench testing it for good airflow. Minimize crank case wear is the goal. Is that a 4oz tank?
2oz square should be enough for 14 minutes.
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Post  OVERLORD on Tue Jun 11, 2019 3:44 am

Thanks for your commets and advice. It's a 1 Oz tank, as standard.
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