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Post  OVERLORD Mon Jan 11, 2021 6:48 am

The gear ratio on the Alfa box says 5,6:1. As you have a 56T gear, that means the pinion has 10T.

In the thread of the electric to Teedee conversion and also above, I said that the 54T gear matched, but after reading what the box said, I got the Porsche out and tried the gears again. I must say, a 56T gear fits as well. There is less backlash and it can even be considered as a better fit. It's a bit harder to turn by hand but that's maybe because the gear is new. The 56T gear is about 1,5mm bigger in diameter than the 54T gear. While I was at it, I replaced mine. You definitely need a 10T pinion.

A few pictures of what I just tried to explain:

Jerobee Alfa T33 Can Am.... It works! Thanks Jason - Page 3 Imgp6316

Jerobee Alfa T33 Can Am.... It works! Thanks Jason - Page 3 Imgp6317



54T on top, 56T bottom:

Jerobee Alfa T33 Can Am.... It works! Thanks Jason - Page 3 Imgp6318




The 5,6:1 was also the ratio on the Teedee powered MRP's. It must be the ideal ratio for that engine.

Jerobee Alfa T33 Can Am.... It works! Thanks Jason - Page 3 Mrp_cl10

I know the Jerobee blog and wanted to comment sometimes but I don't exactly know where to write or how to contact.
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Post  getback Mon Jan 11, 2021 8:39 am

cheers cheers Beers Beers Welcome to the race car side of Cox Models LOL it does look good but a lot to get ur going is needed / consider the radio trans. and receiver , battery box/batteries servos this should bee easy stuff to find though. Congratulations Ron and that new asphalt will bee the bomb ! Jeep
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Jan 11, 2021 10:32 am

Thanks Lieven, great info and much appreciated. I have been digging into your vette threads and it’s been a big help.

Eric, I am good on a radio system. I bought a 2 Ch Futaba Attack III back in 1992 and never did much with it. I installed some batteries last night and it still works!
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Jan 11, 2021 4:56 pm

If you know the pitch of the teeth I can create a new bull gear in any number configuration and 3D print it. Regular Zytel would be best as CF Zytel is pretty abrasive and would wear out the pinion. Tinkercad has a gear generator and there are some openscad custom gear generators. I can add the hex hub center and any offset needed on the hub. Just need measurements.
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Jan 11, 2021 6:03 pm

Thanks Jason, definitely something I will keep in mind. Right now I would be happy to just get a complete clutch unit so I can make it actually work. New wheel would help too... Rolling Eyes

I wonder how low on that gear before it becomes to sluggish on the low end.
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Post  Jason_WI Mon Jan 11, 2021 6:30 pm

I might have the 5-40 clutch shaft with the circlip groove and the grey clutch shoes in my NMMTPA box-o-junk I got off ebay a while back. I'll have to find that stuff. I do know the Cox GTP clutch shoes look exactly the same but are white. Uses the same spring. The pitch on the teeth are finer on the GTP so the GTP clutch bell wouldn't work there.
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Jan 11, 2021 6:49 pm

That would be great, just whenever you get around to it. I would sure appreciate it.
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Post  Jason_WI Sat Jan 16, 2021 2:00 am

I found the clutch shaft, grey clutch shoes and spring. Also can send a GTP clutch shoes. They are lighter and probably engage at a slightly higher RPM.

The flywheel for the TD jerobee engine looks to be unobtanium. I have aluminum stock here that size. All that’s left is to drill the two holes for the roll pins and drill and tap the two 3-48 set screws. May not look pretty and knurling on the HF minilathe is almost impossible. Should be called the chatter master 1000. Must also spend more than $9 for a knurling tool.

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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Jan 17, 2021 10:38 pm

Oh man! That looks amazing Jason.

I feel like a dirtbag now though. Check your inbox......


Between this forum and kind strangers I have everything I need now to complete this project and more.

I took the time to tear the chassis down and clean it up, just waiting on the mailman now....

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Post  NEW222 Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:01 pm

Wow. And clean you did! Can't wait for the rebuild.
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Post  davidll1984 Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:09 pm

Very neat cool y like the carb u want To use looks promising for crazy performance if y have luck To Find one y like To use on m'y wit its tuned pipe Thumbs Up
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Post  davidll1984 Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:19 pm

Jason the parts u made look Good y buy one like that if it was posible its Somting y want To achive build the flywheel for tee dee that part wil sale fast tink on ebay Thumbs Up build 100 of them lol!
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Jan 26, 2021 12:19 am

The mailman arrived today. I had ordered a few parts from a guy in Sweden, they were sent on the 17th of January and arrived today. I couldn’t believe it, 7 days from Sweden? Really? I can’t get stuff in the U.S. to come that fast these days. I was impressed for sure.

I also received parts from the original owner, I wrote him about a week after auction ended and asked that he ever came up with the original missing parts that I would be interested. Well he found them, and sent them free of charge. When does that ever happen?  Still waiting on the large body Pins and tires from Canada. Ordered those on the 7th. Maybe I should have got them from Sweden...

Here is the chassis assembled with the new parts. I fired it off and it ran like crap with that carb, touchy needle, super high idle and flaky running, so I may go with a throttle ring.

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Post  getback Tue Jan 26, 2021 7:05 am

Sweet ! It cleaned up well .
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Post  OVERLORD Tue Jan 26, 2021 7:07 am

That looks good with new bumper, drag link and the 4th wheel!!
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Post  Cribbs74 Tue Jan 26, 2021 11:31 pm

I have to admit I am not in my comfort zone, I am so used to just firing these things up set the needle and go, the throttling has me baffled and I can only assume I am doing it wrong.

The Tarno was completely useless, very poor throttle response and constant flame outs as I went to idle. Muffled or open exhaust didn’t matter. I messed with the idle stop screw and it didn’t matter, I could only keep it running with it adjusted almost all the way in. Problem with that is the idle is so high the clutch stays engaged.

So off came the number 4 cylinder, on went the #3 with throttle ring. Better, but still poor response and idle too high to disengage the clutch. I had 2 different ring styles and they worked about the same.

I am kind of at a loss here. Any ideas guys?
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Post  Jason_WI Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:04 am

With the early GTP Nissan it used a medallion cylinder with the throttle muffler like on the dragonfly engine. I always had to have the break engaged to keep it stopped. The clutch engagement at idle would always creep it forward. This was on a reed engine though. The clutch shoes on the GTP are lighter. Takes a bit higher RPM to engage. I can send you a set. Also make sure the spring isn’t deformed that holds the shoes together.
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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:14 am

Interesting, I thought about the throttle muffler as I have heard good things. I even went as far as to look on Ebay, but nothing is on there at the moment. The spring and shoes I have are new, I really think it’s just I can’t get the idle down. Do you have any experience with the RC .05 carb? I can get one of those easily, but if it’s like the Tarno then forget it.

I think the throttle muffler would be the way to go. If it throttles down and keeps things quiet I am all for it. The TD seems so much louder running on a flywheel as opposed to a prop. I’ll have to keep looking for one. Is the Medallion cylinder ground for use with that?

Lots of questions, as I said new territory for me.

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Post  Jason_WI Wed Jan 27, 2021 1:08 am

I have a spare set I can send you. It’s non SPI set used on the GTP. I ran my GTP with this setup and seemed to work pretty good back in the day. The Maple throttle that came later was good too I guess but never used it. I have a few cars with that here and only ran it one time to see how it worked. I’ll have to dig all my GTP and stocker cars out some day and get a pic.

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Post  Cribbs74 Wed Jan 27, 2021 8:34 am

What a guy! Yeah I’ll give it a whirl! Thank you. Would love to see the gtp cars and stockers. I’ll send you a PM.
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Post  Jason_WI Thu Jan 28, 2021 12:48 am

Here’s setup instructions for the throttle muffler from the older GTP Nissan manual. This should apply to the Jerobee.

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Post  Cribbs74 Thu Jan 28, 2021 10:36 pm

Thanks Jason,

Good info, that should make things much easier or at least get me in the ballpark quicker.

Ron
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Post  davidll1984 Fri Jan 29, 2021 1:59 am

Sory y was buzy y tink if use carb on tee dee it wil nead presurised tank as using the .05 carb without presure result engine r tend To run lean and wit cars engine Not Good and carb use air blead try close as possible To help fuel draw tink the tharno carb wil just nead adjustment close air as possible and open fuel valve lot more the tharno carb Good performance parts its possible To lean mix on low rpm help engine Not stop from To mutch fuel like if use choke tube carb try with the carb To start engine when the engine is running try open the neadle valve To lower its rpm full trotle now after engine keap runing low rpm like fuel very ritch now just try close trottle it have To stal very fast if engine keap runing its 2 neadle valve is way To close open litle and if engine wont stop is Somting wrong with the tarno carb its second neadle nead To exit its jet Not stay in like in the picturs exemple of 3 of them function Jerobee Alfa T33 Can Am.... It works! Thanks Jason - Page 3 16119010
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Jan 29, 2021 11:30 am

Thanks David,

I will play around with it some more in the future. I spent two full days dorking with it and it never got any better. The carb was new in package and had instructions which I followed.

It didn’t say anything about pressure although, it wouldn’t be the first time something model airplane related didn’t work as advertised.

To be honest I am just sick of messing with it.

The only thing I didn’t consider was I was bench running it out of the car. This omits the load of the wheels, axle and gear. Perhaps it needs that to run properly.

Ron
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Post  davidll1984 Fri Jan 29, 2021 1:57 pm

Yes m'y god never run cox engine without résistance it wil Not work correct and posibly damage engine take exemple of that .010 bench test flyweel start wit starter direct drive its best use wheel ou wil slip if floded without mécanisme drivetrain prop for résistance its just ask for trouble mes time use rc gear To operate the carb and tune the cars on its wheels m'y self never started m'y tee dee out of the cars without prop its possible To tune carb wit prop as its very close To cars seting wit the prop
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