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Post  LostServoScrew Sat Feb 12, 2022 8:21 pm

Being bored a few days ago, I searched Facebook marketplace for "cox engine", and this came up, much to my surprise, so I bought it.
It's used, but pretty clean and the red plastic bits are still nice and red and I like the box/instructions.
New to me today - 010 TD 010_210
I fitted the fuel tank, cleaned the little holes in the ventury, gave it some 20% castor/ 25% nitro fuel and 1.5 volts.
It runs, which is nice, I ran about 4 tanks through it in all.
There's a fuel leak on the tank backplate, which should be easy enough to sort but didn't help a lot.

A few questions for you all...

Should there be a gasket between the tank and the crankcase?
I didn't find one fitted, there was some old silicon sealant on the fitted (non tank) back plate however.
It seemed to be fine without.

When I first got it it was turning fine and smoothly, but a little bit "gummy" due to slightly old oil.
It was apparent to me then that there was about 3 or 4 degrees of rotational "slop" between the prop and the slightly gummed piston.
So I'm wondering if needs the piston reset?
Now I've cleaned/oiled/run it its seems fine, of course
If so, does anyone in the UK have the reset tool they could loan me or sell me?
Cheers!
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Post  Coxfledgling Sun Feb 13, 2022 1:39 am

Check out densmodelsupplies, he sticks lots of 049 parts.

If he doesn't have one in stock at the moment, he will have soon.

Pre order perhaps so he can update his stick order.

Hopefully he can get some td09 parts for me.
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Post  Coxfledgling Sun Feb 13, 2022 1:51 am

Silicon sealer...

In a bike application I have seen silicon sealer being used with really bad results.

Honda changed with the rise of she'll bearings.

There 250/400 "nightmare" models have some odd design features, particularly the head bolts on these models.

The 4 centre head bolts are open to atmosphere and in just the right place to collect grit and salt with bad results.

Anyways they chose to design in 2 channels connecting the outside to the inside, and then "seal" these channels via fixed seals on the bolts.

These seals go rock hard and eventually leak oil.

People have used silicon sealer to make them oil tight.

Tooo much sealer can make its way into the bolt hole in the upper crank case holes and BURST the casting.

This happens quite a lot, you find half the bolt hole lying on the crank case floor.

Cox crankcase have 4 threaded holes for the back plate screws. Any silicon sealer in these holes could cause bursting of the crank case, so be warned.
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Post  sosam117 Sun Feb 13, 2022 7:01 am

Hello LostScrewServo,

As for the 1st question "Should there be a gasket between the tank and the back plate?"

Yes, there should be one there.

Here is the gasket on Cox international's website:
https://coxengines.ca/cox-010/cox--010-fuel-tank-gasket-2.html

or on EX Model Engine's website:
http://www.exmodelengines.com/product.php?productid=17515&cat=250&page=1

Now to the 2nd question:
"Should there be a gasket between the tank and the crankcase?"
I think there should be, but Cox never made one for it?

As for the gasket between the crankcase and the engine mount or fuel tank/mount.
I used this Permatex gasket making material (safe on plastic).

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It stays pliable without the bad effects like when you use silicon sealant.
I use a toothpick to apply it onto the small face of the crankcase.

I hope you can get the Permatex where you are at?

Or you can get the aluminum tank assembly from Cox International, which is great, and you'll never have a problem again with fuel leakage.
The aluminum tank has a rubber "O" ring to seal the crankcase to tank faces.

Another plus is the aluminum tank holds a little more fuel.

https://coxengines.ca/cox-010/cox--010-alu-fuel-tank-red.html

See my little Cox .010 with the aluminum tank below.
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Post  Levent Suberk Sun Feb 13, 2022 7:43 am

Do not use vinegar smelling silicone on engines, because they contain acetic acid. Use neutral silicone sealer instead of vinegar smelling silicone sealer.

Note: I have no experience with Permatex.
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