The scrap yard Piper Cub aka Silver Lining/AIRTRUK

I think this one’s going to have a lot of character….The cowl and struts will set it off…. I like the old warhorse ukie too…Bet it could tell a story or two…

rdw777 wrote:I think this one’s going to have a lot of character….The cowl and struts will set it off…. I like the old warhorse ukie too…Bet it could tell a story or two…

Probably most of them sad:





But yes, I would love to know it's history.  I'm just happy that it was never tossed out.  I wonder how it survived all these years and where and how it was stuck away.

Cub's plastic backplate had mounting screws and pegs that required relieving the luan to accept.  Backplate has built in down.  I'm keeping the 12" wing instead of cutting it back to eleven.  I had originally made this wing for the Airtruk, but opted for the wider five in chord.



I'm not going to use bolsters to fill out the backplate, going to let it hang out like the Goldberg Cub.

New smaller bell cranks coming.

Millimeters are easier to work with than inches.  After trying to decypher inches I switched to mm's.  Going to back up the engine mount with triangle stock forgoing the bolsters.  Everything is square, no deviation.  There is down built into the plastic plate.  Built for foam, it had four spikes and was glued on.  

 


Cutting out the templates for the rudder, horz stab/elevator.




Bit the bullet and laid out $20 for a $7.50 can of sanding sealer.  Have you checked the price of paint lately....................



Ya, me too.  I have no idea how this is going to turn out.  Fly or not?  Maybe?  Sending it to Ken.  

Bob, I have to chime in here a second. In the picture with the assembly in the vise and your square body on top. You show the square with the bubble in the center. I see these types of pictures on the internet with regular frequency. I see it on wings, stabs, etc. In generally, the level is completely irrelevant. In the event the table was completely level, and the vise square to the table this would be somewhat viable. However, the level only proves that the piece you have the square on is parallel to the horizon. It doesn't mean it's square to the fuse. I see this many times when a drill press is pictured and I see levels being used where a square should be used.

rsv1cox wrote:Millimeters are easier to work with than inches.

Yes

I've been making logo and insignia for the yellow Piper Cub. If you want to paint it in another color please let me know.

Hello Bob, are you making another cub from the broken balsa one that ur repairing ? Or is it a difft. plane altogether ? Sorry if i am out there this morn been a long 2 weeks w/water problems that are finally fixed

Ken, the adjustable part of the square was there for the weight.  I tried to clamp it after gluing but it kept knocking it off center.  But in the past I have used a torpedo level across the wing, still beats my vision corrected eye and gives me the impression that at least I'm trying to do something right.  

Thanks Levent, I'm finishing the whole thing in yellow.  Black accents would be wonderful.  I'm still thinking how to do the cockpit, duplicate the one on the Carl Goldberg model or something different.  

And Eric, a whole new plane based on the original "Silver Lining" and made up of scrap balsa left over from the other builds.  But, quite different, no lower wing and a conventional tail.  I just needed an excuse to use up that cowl and Pee Wee engine.

I can understand where Ken is coming from. Being a carpenter, he references his measurements relative to the section he is working on. This is because floor surfaces are not necessarily square with the horizon. In a garage, the floor is usually mildly sloped to allow drainage toward the garage door and outside. Carpenters are able to take a less than perfect situation and make it look good. (I have actually seen this on the job.)

OTOH, a fine machinist will install his equipment perfectly level with the horizon, adjusting the feet on the equipment until that is achieved. Then all measurements are square. Also, it helps to prevent work from rolling off the table workspace. But, usually he will take a couple different measurements to ensure the squareness and alignment of surfaces on the work.

Your work is coming right along, Bob.

Regarding metric versus ANSI/SAE standard measuring system, when I went to college in the mid 1970's, the latter was used throughout, with metric introductions in class, in case we should encounter metrics like working in Europe. On the job, it was mostly the latter until the late 1990's.

But, in the transitional shape of things in the measuring world, I remember hardened steel bolts and nuts on my 1967 Datsun PL411 (Bluebird 4-door sedan). They had SAE heads and surfaces on the bolts and nuts, but metric diameters and threads on the shafts and holes. I found this out when I had stripped the head on a bolt, went to the autoparts store for a universal replacement, and got a true metric bolt. The Japanese did this thing because they figured in the 1960's, that most American shops were SAE equipped with few metric tools. By 1969, they discontinued this practice as far as I know.

Regarding one over the other, it is mainly what you are familiar with. I see no real advantage of one over the other. Measuring errors in one is just as bad as errors in measuring in the other.

I suppose if I could have my way, we'd be doing all things in the Base-12 numbering system (0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,T,E). This is because with such a system, you can evenly divide by 2, 3, 4, 6, etc. without left over fractional amounts.

Still, I prefer power units of HP over Watts, torque Inch-Ounce over millinewton-metres. I guess it just depends on how you were schooled.
I guess I am just starting to show my age.

Coming along.  I like it better than the Bipe version, looks more conventional.  Think I'll call it "Stubby Cub"  

Good work Interesting idea

Bob, I think you’re landing on “character scale “ with the last two… Fun …. I like the rounded Cub tail surfaces…..Are you going to round the wing tips as well?

rdw777 wrote:Bob, I think you’re landing on “character scale “ with the last two… Fun …. I like the rounded Cub tail surfaces…..Are you going to round the wing tips as well?

"Character scale"  I like that!  Might pass for "Cute scale" too.  

Right now I'm using the 12 inch wing that I made for the Airtruk, but I'm thinking more like a 13/14" wing which would be more Cub like especially when I'm adding struts.  

I grooved the backplate for the landing gear wire, still need to split the elevator/horz stab when I decide on dimensions and add the tail skid.  Whole thing gets yellow paint.






Did you ever fly your electric?  Before I try mine I'm gonna need a trailblazer..........

I don't like cloth hinges but with 1/16" balsa you have little choice although I had thought about removing some under elevator balsa to install pinned Dubros.  



I decent job can be had by putting a drop of CA on the cloth and immediately wiping with waxed paper just to hold it in place.  Then apply a couple of coats of sanding sealer to the whole assembly.  Hold the elevator and horz stab close together which compresses the fold between the two while it dries, a minute or two.  Makes for a nice tight seam while allowing maximum movement.  Sanding sealer is very sticky and is like applying a light coat of thinned epoxy.  Sand when finished and top coat.  

More custom wheels.




Rough cut.  Replaced the 12" wing with a 14" and rounded the tips.

Hi Bob, I’ve tried to fly it but no bueno….Part of the problem is that as light as the micro switch is on the timer, I still have to give the down line a pretty good jerk to initiate it which usually upsets how it’s sitting for take off…. I may try bypassing the switch and make a leaf type switch to be activated by the pushrod…. All it takes is a touch to start the timer…

If it ever gets airborne it’s crazy pitch sensitive (no surprise) even weighted nose heavy… still messing with it though…. If anything it sparked an idea for a small space CL flyer…. I have a place beside the house just right…. Maybe I’ll try the idea on a little Ringmaster or something….

The Cub is looking great! I like the head on shot… Perfect use for that cowl….It will be a cutie when painted out and the Cub details added…

Test phase Robert. Takes a while to iron out the kinks.

Nose heavy is a problem with these stubbies.

Trying to figure the position of the struts and control lines so they don't interfere.




I believe that I am going to have to use dacron to a single lead-out guide. No wire lead-outs. Still thinking.

Hey RDW777 if its wants to come in on you you could use a strip of wood on the platform ? to keep in place, Kim dose this with the plastics he flys to pull the release . Good job Bob you got it under control over here .

Back down to parts. Final detail sanding paint and reassemble. I couldn't figure out how to do the cabin, finally sprayed it Krylon aluminum then frog tape the windows and over spray with Krylon yellow.

Caricature Cub, Nice ….. Rounded tips will go well…. Hallmark sells a nice silver tissue that can be used for windows…. Use a glue stick for adhesive…. Would surely have to fuel proof though ….

Thanks Getback for the idea, Yes I’ve seen Kim’s videos and they are very inspirational…. I’ll eventually modify the timer and give it a hair trigger so it doesn’t upset so much on launch..

Robert

rdw777 wrote:Caricature Cub, Nice ….. Rounded tips will go well…. Hallmark sells a nice silver tissue that can be used for windows…. Use a glue stick for adhesive…. Would surely have to fuel proof though ….

Thanks Getback for the idea, Yes I’ve seen Kim’s videos and they are very inspirational…. I’ll eventually modify the timer and give it a hair trigger so it doesn’t upset so much on launch..

Robert

Caricature, yes I'm buying it. Eyeballs are a little out of place though.

But you gave me an idea. My aluminum spray just isn't working out and I have made a mess of it. Finishing touches are not my forte along with many other things. This stuff is thin, very adhesive and lays well.



Cut something along these lines. Maybe final overspray of clear.

How I missed this, I don't know. But I cannot wait to see the finished 'Stubby Cubby'!

NEW222 wrote:How I missed this, I don't know. But I cannot wait to see the finished 'Stubby Cubby'!

Everything was going really well until the finishing phase, then the souffle' hit the fan. I won't go into the gorry details but they are significant. The benefit is, I can string it up and fly it into the ground and not be the worse for the experience.

Just for fun.