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Good day for me too. Got my Tee Dee singing. Cox_ba12




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Post  RknRusty Sun Nov 06, 2011 10:55 pm

Last week when I was having trouble I was using a rickety old Bee test block and a rubber-banded 10cc syringe for a fuel tank. So I made a new rest block with a big clunk tank fixed to the back of it properly aligned with the engine. I followed the instructions someone gave me on one of the forums: Open needle valve 1 turn and block the venturi; flip prop checking for fuel draw and open valve until it pulls fuel to the engine; prime and crank. It was almost that easy. I sealed the NV with a piece of small ID/large OD tubing. It fits much differently than the same trick on the Bees. You'll see it in my video on YouTube.

It runs fast and I think fairly steady. But since I'm unfamiliar with TDs, I'll let y'all listen to mine in the vid and give me some feedback.

One question about the fuel tank. This thing drinks fuel like there's a hole in the tank. the 3/8oz tank on my Stuntman23 is probably going to be empty after a few laps. What size do I need for a 4 or 5 minute run?

Here's the video:
https://youtu.be/iUzDYTOif04?hd=1

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Post  PV Pilot Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:18 am

Sounds good rusty, once it was on the needle. Did you happen to count your turns once you had it at stable rpm's. Those plastic fuel line pinches are nice, I have a handfull of those and use them alot.

One thing I did notice, and maybe you guys can double check this, But when a finger was just touching the needle it seemed to change tune. I say this because I had a Gmark that would do this, and the culprit was loose or worn threads on the needle. a slight push off center and it would make the rpms warble slightly.
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Post  Cribbs74 Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:48 am

Rusty,

Sounds good, seemed to be pushing a lot of air as the piece of paper on your back wall was lifting. I used the pressure fitting on mine to pressurize my 1oz tank and it made a big difference in steady fuel delivery. Is this a brand new one? Either way it may just need some more break in. Maybe that's why it runs better every time you fire it up. It does seem to be running well with only the slightest waiver here and there. Good idea on the ear muffs! I should start doing that.
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Post  RknRusty Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:02 am

I noticed it slowed whenever I touched the needle too. That piece of tube is so tight I don't believe it can be leaking air. But the screw wobbles, so the amount of fuel flow is still affected a bit. I'll have a fine thread NVA this week, so it should take care of that.
I counted the turns. Every run was a little different, but between 2 and 2.5. I think the new NVA will solve the quirks.

But in any case it sounds like it'll fly a plane just fine. It's a used engine, but the piston still fits tight and it was very clean. I took it apart and there was nothing needed, so I put it right back together and ran it. It originally belonged to our own member, fit90. In fact I was worried about the tight fit at first but the Tee Dee guys at RCG assured me it was fine. I knew about the taper, but I still thought i should ask. It gets tight a lot earlier in the upstroke than a Bee.

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Post  PV Pilot Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:22 am

Right about 2:54-55 on the vid timer it sounds like it is hitting top rpms and very steady. That's the just-right needle mark and tank fuel level.
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Post  hlsat Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:57 am

Because I know that it is not based on spring needle makes this patent.
First cut a flanges of special paper and placed it between 1789 venturi and plastic body 1724.
Second to stabilize the needle placed between the needle 1709 and 1789 venturi body a short spring.
As spring in needle for Cox Baby.
Look the foto.
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Post  dankar04 Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:27 pm

Brodak makes a nice 1 1/3 oz. uniflow tank or use Sullivan 1 oz. and make it uniflow. Don't use stupid pressure fitting. Or make a bladder if you ever get Texas Timer nva. Also there use to be a pressure backplate for Cox. That works better than hole in sude of engine. Good luck with it.
Dan Flying lol!
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