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"ULTIMITE COX 010: it has a clutch, E starter, throttle, exhaust, aluminum tank, aluminum venturi, gearbox with forward and reverse, and now its on a custom drawn and printed stand"



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Post  rat9000 Wed Feb 26, 2014 1:42 am

new to forum-bought a warhawk for my nephew trying to get him interested in something mechanical and off the computer.engine has to come out but I cannot figure out how to split plane. tks mark
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Post  GUS THE I.A. Wed Feb 26, 2014 2:03 am

Hi! Welcome!
What make of engine, and type of model do you have there? Maybe a picture would help.
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Post  rat9000 Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:58 am

Its a 049 factory cox, probably 70,s P-40, engine turns but its sluggish I'm going to brake clean it and try to fire it.
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Post  GallopingGhostler Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:06 pm

Those earlier Cox RTF's, believe they were held together with self tapping sheet metal style screws. I'd shine a good light source on the recessed holes on the bottom. You'll probably see screw heads at the bottom. Like any plastic article, it is very easy to overtighten when reassembling and strip the plastic losing the screw's grip and hold. I'd go slow when disassembling it. If it requires relatively excessive force, the back up, re-examine. Back then things were made to come apart, unlike a lot of the "one shot" stuff these days.
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Post  crankbndr Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:26 pm

The Cox Collection Site has many instruction sheets and part lists for models and engines

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Post  GallopingGhostler Sat Mar 08, 2014 7:16 am

Wow, that is neat, exploded parts diagrams, certainly makes for an easier task. About the only thing that I didn't like about the Cox RTF's of the 1960's and 1970's were their realistic crash scenes, when I Figure-9'd a few. The plastic was brittle enough that the plane would shatter into pieces. I gained a couple "new" donor engines after such scenes worthy of an NTSB investigation.  Laughing
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Post  jsesere Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:07 pm

Instead of brake cleaning it just place the exposed engine in front of a blow dryer. Once it loosens up a bit squirt some fuel in it. Same thing applies if you have issues getting the glow head off.
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Post  Mark Boesen Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:21 pm

Yep, get'er warm and spray a little WD-40 in it (fuel can work, or any solvent) but if its been setting around for a long time odds are the reed is stuck and will need to be cleaned as well.

Always use some heat when working on used engines, the heat softens up the glue like caster oil and always save you from damaging a engine part.

I'm not a big fan of soaking aluminum parts in brake fluid or fuel, they both absorb water which can lead to corrosion. For a short time hour or two, its fine. I've ruined a engine forgetting about it and leaving it soaked in brake fluid for several days.
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Post  RknRusty Sat Mar 08, 2014 11:30 pm

Welcome to CEF, Rat. I'm sure we can get you flying. Balsa wood models will survive the inevitable crashes of a beginner and lessen the frustration that leads to disinterest. If you decide to go that rout we can get you pointed in the right direction, and the P-40 engine will be a great power plant for many trainer type models.
Good luck,
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Post  rat9000 Sun Mar 16, 2014 1:10 am

thanks for all the input---and the exploded view,got it split (screws) eng out (heat-wd) has a good pop wanted to start it but at 1:40am might wake somebody up??????? In the meantime got a yellow super stunt with box (86 bucks great shape) I wd it ,fueled it heard the hiss of plug it started 2.25 turns out on screw.I notice its a twin port Vs. single port Is the duel better,,tks>>>>>>>>hey to some of you guys I know of a couple of aircraft for sale. they are to best of my knowledge navion,1948 military trainers retractable landing gear,connital engines,very nice.One in Cal and One in OH....mark
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