Anybody get anything cool for Christmas?

A MC-59 plug is designed for 0-10% nitro tops on plane useage. That really is a hot plug for the use you were shooting for. It's really a control line stunt engine plug. I'm surprised it lasted one run in a car engine and didn't cause pre ignition. The filament is weaker on a hot plug. The other factor is the heat range it was designed for. A car engine far surpasses that. A MC-8 is designed for 20% fuels in car use. The MC-9 is colder yet but the filament is heavier. Many of the car fuels are very low on oil content. Powermaster might have had more oil than your engine requires. Ken

Hi Ken, thanks, the thing came with the MC59s, the OS LC3 is a hot plug also and I haven't seen any pre ignition symptoms. Maybe I'm hurting the engine?
I also have a OS8 that is a medium heat range that I'll try today. What plug do you think would be best on 20%?

I wouldn't say your hurting the engine, your runs are probably suffering. I might add however that if you take out a plug and the element drops into the cylinder your not going to be so happy. I have one car actually truck. When I ran it on my standard plane fuel 10% nitro and 50/50 blend of castor synthetic, the engine ran horribly. I realized that I had too much oil in the fuel. The standard fuel that I was using had almost 7% less than what I was using. If your running 20% nitro, I would keep the plug heat range in the medium area. While my knowledge is mostly with control line use, I can certainly say most manufacturers have tried to keep on the path of utilizing a standard for plug heat ranges based on nitro use. I would suggest at least a #4 plug or medium heat range plug for 20% nitro. Each manufacturer of plug will make a difference in your run. Some obviously will work better and last longer. I know when I was able to go to our go to hobby shop, the owner was selling a lot of Enya plugs to the r/c car and truck owners. Enya plugs are quite expensive usually a #4 plug from Enya is around $9. A #6 plug was selling for $12. I would certainly try and find the obvious least expensive plug that works with regularity and durability. I wish I was more knowledgeable in the field of r/c cars. I just posted my last response due to using the MC-59 on a regular basis. Mccoy states however that the MC-59 can be used up to medium heat ranges but I have my serious doubts in regards to using that plug in car use. Air use is entirely different as cooling is different vs a car/truck. Ken

Its hard to find any info about the engine but I think its made by SuperTigre ( still not sure).
This is a photo of the replacement piston and liner

Nice man, I've been running R/C cars since the 80,s and the monster GT's are fun indeed and good luck keeping it on the ground once she loosens up! I'm surprised that you had problems with the VP (Powermaster) fuel though. I run it and have had no issues so far it could be the oil package though as Kim stated. VP uses a Synthetic/castor blend the castor being Klotz Benol if I'm not mistaken and the oil content in VP car fuels can go down as low as 11% content. Since you are bashing as the car folks say, stay away from the low content Race fuels of any make they are designed for max RPM with a sacrifice of longevity and as a consequence, it makes needle settings critical. My plugs of choice for standard plugs are the MC-9 as Kim stated and the OS#8 which I have found is a good all around plug. I race Nitro R/C cars (1/8 scale Buggy) and I would be happy to help ya so if you need any, let me know (Bandit)

crankbndr wrote:Its hard to find any info about the engine but I think its made by SuperTigre ( still not sure).
This is a photo of the replacement piston and liner

The engine I'm pretty sure is made by thundertiger and is somewhat based off their 50 size helicopter engine. Their decent motors as long as you take care of them. (Bandit)

Thanks Bandit, the 20% Powermaster fuel is 14% oil, half castor and the Odonnell has no info at all on it just that is factory spec 20% but i'm pretty sure it all syn.
I still have a quart of Powermaster and going to try that with the OS8 plug.

crankbndr wrote:Thanks Bandit, the 20% Powermaster fuel is 14% oil, half castor and the Odonnell has no info at all on it just that is factory spec 20% but i'm pretty sure it all syn.
I still have a quart of Powermaster and going to try that with the OS8 plug.

No problem! BTW If it says race on the O'Donnell bottle it's full synthetic at 8% Their RTR (Ready To Run) fuel which is a good fuel has Castor/synthetic at 14% with more castor than synthetic content. As far as Powermaster is concerned it sounds like you've got their Master Basher blend which is about right. One thing about that Carb Since its a 3 needle carb 1. HS 2. LS mix 3. Mid Range adj. a good rule of thumb when concerning the Mid range (The screw on the HS needle side) is to set it so that it's flush with the carb body and leave it, then use the needle on the side of the slider for adjusting the low speed mix. Never use both at the same time. (Bandit)

My daughter got me a new ipad..



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtXWWRyJLPw

Hea man !! KEN I DONT kNOW SEEM LIKE A GOOD IDEA AT THE TIME Stupid cap loc ////I think I ordered the wrong thing nice looking Truck huh frame / engine , Crankbendr Glad ur getting it straightened out , Nice Ipad Roddie  a personalize MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU !!  Eric

I got a couple of cool presents from my sister. A hand crafted Gee-Haw Whimmydiddle! When I was a kid, I remember sitting on an old guy's porch watching him carve. He had a whimmydiddle, much bigger than my new one, and tried unsuccessfully to teach me to use it. So I got my next try this Christmas, and I can make it go pretty good. But reverse is a challenge because most of my fingers don't point where they're supposed to anymore.

She also gave me the aluminum miniature USS Enterprise NCC-1701. Looks tricky to put together. Fun.

I had a really great Christmas. Dinner was an oyster roast, of which I was the oyster master. I actually saw... and ate the biggest damn oyster I have ever seen in my life. Turkey breast, leg of lamb, ham, prime rib, and all kinds of side dishes. And deserts. Mercy. I am incredibly lucky to have an interesting and fun family.

...And no, I'm not tipping the egg nog. lol. Here's the loot:

https://youtu.be/m0YvY6F_Bmw




Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that ball-on-a-string game. I'm surprisingly good at it. Maybe I should go to a longer line.
Rusty

Well, now I have seen everything!

I first saw the Whimmy sticks when I was in my 20s, great bar trick. I had one that worked great and lost it so I tried to make one.
I could never make one that worked right, very hard to make a good one.
If you don't yell WHIMMY at it just right they don't work.

RknRusty wrote:I got a couple of cool presents from my sister. A hand crafted Gee-Haw Whimmydiddle! When I was a kid, I remember sitting on an old guy's porch watching him carve. He had a whimmydiddle, much bigger than my new one, and tried unsuccessfully to teach me to use it. So I got my next try this Christmas, and I can make it go pretty good. But reverse is a challenge because most of my fingers don't point where they're supposed to anymore.

Rusty sorry for my ignorance but on what principle does this devil's propeller work?
I did not see any physical contact between the prop and the stick with which you were agitating the stem...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gee-haw_whammy_diddle
this might help.

I've seen them before but never knew they were this controllable.

Phil

For about four years I've been chasing parts for a vintage racing motorcycle (1970 XR750)I'm restoring. The rolling chassis is all done and the last two years spent finding parts for the motor. Motor is now fully reconditioned and also the magneto and ready to put into the chassis. Hope to do that early in the new year when everything settles down. Last thing to do was the carburettor. I have two old ones and the plan was to try and make one good one out of the two. Then a few before Christmas what do I find on eBay, a tillotson HD5A racing carburettor, not only the correct part but brand new old stock. I sniped it for US$310.50. Should arrive in a week or so. My Christmas present to me.

Here I thought Brit bike parts were expensive. That's a big pill to swallow for such a little part. Must be rare as Hens teeth.

Cribbs74 wrote:Here I thought Brit bike parts were expensive. That's a big pill to swallow for such a little part. Must be rare as Hens teeth.

Yes even though the carb cross's over to a sister bike (XLR) they are fairly rare and nos ones more so. No one seems to know for sure exactly how many 1970 iron XR750 motorcycles were made but the consensus is just over the 200 mark. 200 being the minimum to homologate the model for racing. In short they were pretty much an absolute failure and the HD race shop set about building a replacement which came out in 1972 and was an instant success. But meanwhile back at the ranch everyone who had one of these was trying to get it to run long enough to finish a race. Less than half of the 200 sold and later in the decade when one of the big bosses found over a hundred of them stored in a basement he ordered them all scrapped so the bikes themselves are reasonably scarce.

Ah, you Kiwis love your motorbikes!!  

Rod.

balogh wrote:

RknRusty wrote:I got a couple of cool presents from my sister. A hand crafted Gee-Haw Whimmydiddle! When I was a kid, I remember sitting on an old guy's porch watching him carve. He had a whimmydiddle, much bigger than my new one, and tried unsuccessfully to teach me to use it. So I got my next try this Christmas, and I can make it go pretty good. But reverse is a challenge because most of my fingers don't point where they're supposed to anymore.

Rusty sorry for my ignorance but on what  principle  does this devil's propeller work?
I did not see any physical contact between the prop and the stick with which you were agitating the stem...

There are six notches cut in the Gee Haw Whimmydiddle stem. When the stem is held tightly in just the right position, I guess the vibration of the "control stick" rubbing across the notches must set up an orbital motion at the tip where the propeller is loosely mounted. One side of the prop is slightly heavier, so I wonder if that provides the momentum to keep it spinning. I'm supposed to be able to reposition my grip on the sticks and make it turn backwards. So far I can only do that if I switch to left handed operation, but like I said, my fingers are distorted by arthritis and I think that's messing up my reverse rotation. I can control it anywhere I want between very slow and very fast when I do it right handed.

Gee and Haw are commands used to guide a draft animal to turn either left or right.
Rusty

EDIT:
From Wikipedia:
Physical explanation[edit]
To observe the effect, the propeller attached to the end of the ribbed stick must not be pinned at its exact centre of mass, i.e. off-center or loose. For a functioning whammy diddle, there should be a "preferred" angle (i.e. when stationary, if the propeller is rotated around its axis and then released, it should return to its lowest-energy rest angle relative to the ribbed stick.) Rubbing the ribbed stick with another stick along the grooves creates a vertical alternating driving force F_y acting on the centre of mass of the propeller:
F_y(t) = Y cos(\omega t)
where h \omega = 2\pi/T  and T is the time taken for the stick to move from one groove to the next; Y is some unknown scaling factor that characterizes the force with which the two sticks are pressed against one another. By rubbing a finger against these grooves on the side, one can also introduce a horizonal alternating driving force F_x
F_x(t) = X cos(\omega t + \phi)
where \phi is a phase shift (describing the lag time between when the grooves contacts the moving rod, and finger respectively) and, again, X is some unknown scaling factor. Importantly, \omega is the same frequency, and the two driving forces are said to be phase locked. The confluence of two phase matched driving forces in orthogonal directions gives rise to a rotational force on the centre of mass at the propeller end, and thus, rotation.
When the operator of the whammy-diddle surreptitiously changes the side at which his/her finger contacts the stick (e.g. by contacting with his thumb instead of his fore-finger, or by changing the side at which a finger contacts the grooves of the base) he or she changes the sign of the phase \phi, and thus reverses the rotation.

Oldenginerod wrote:Ah, you Kiwis love your motorbikes!!  

Rod.

Hi Rod
Yeh I reckon motorbikes are like Cox engines, you can never have too many and you never know, there may be a shortage

Ok,

My In-Laws hooked me up!

A model builders best friend

Nice! That's a good brand too. I need to get that big sander of mine working, it's still just in the way in my shop.