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Post  RknRusty Sat May 23, 2015 11:06 pm

I love not having to think about how to load up for a flying expedition, just chuck 'em in and go. Ready for tomorrow morning. My new plane hauler is working well.
Hauling freight! And Sunday Flying. Wp_20113
Pre-flighting the Oriental turned into work. The leadout guide is recessed so far into the wingtip, the lines grind on the outer edges where they exit. I can't believe I wasn't feeling it happen, they were really hooking up in some spots. I made a ply plate shaped and hardened with CA to line the upper edge. Then some microballoons to spackle and smooth the lower edge, slicked up with some 800 grit paper and they're smooth as ice now. I also added another row of holes to the tongue muffler to help the 40 stay cool in the impending Summer heat. I want runs like that "First Patterns" video. I've somehow been setting it too lean since then, but I believe it was just my mistake rather than heat in those flights.

The Yak has been hanging so long the rubber bands holding the tank had melted. Fixed her all up, she's ready to fly. I'm looking forward to taking it easy. Fun flying, sittn' and chatting, no contests, no pressure. Test and tune, as we called it at the drag strip back in the good ol days. Nice wind from the right direction, 7-9 mph, clear skies. Hope we don't have to mow.

I'll file a flight report tomorrow evening.
Rusty

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Post  Ken Cook Sun May 24, 2015 6:13 am

Rusty , I plan to do that myself. I figured I would make it easy on myself and replace some tanks for the holiday. I tried one engine and nothing but fits all day. I come home, the tank is leaking. I take the 2 other tanks I have and pressure test, and sure enough leaking. THis wasted nearly 4 hours of my day fiddling with this until I got home to check. I just wouldn't let myself believe that there was an air leak. Afterall they're brand new and they weren't exactly inexpensive.  I just don't know why for the life of me nothing ever seems to be done correctly nowadays. I took 2 of the tanks apart to find that the filler and overflow are not soldered correctly not to mention the overflow could've been installed at least another 5/16" into the tank which would yield a short run had I not looked inside. The pickup tube was so poorly bent inside that the solder broke due to it not laying correctly in it's respectful area. I can't stress enough to pressure test and look inside a tank prior to use. Always do a shake test prior to filling and listen for loose particles usually indicating rust of solder that's loose inside. I should've known better and I assumed that due to the manufacturer I used for these tanks all would've been sound to go.

I spent almost 3 hours repairing the tanks last evening. While I use them, this type of stuff has me leaning more and more towards the use of plastic tanks. These require a bit of knowledge to get working correctly for control line use and a bit of tinkering. This is mainly due to tank height and this is generally adjusted with some loosening of the top stopper and twisting of the assembly. I need to start exploring those options a bit more. I have made a few using the hitchiker clunk where the uniflow and clunk are tied together. I really ned to be more aggressive with my experimentation with that.  Today I shall enjoy the rewards. Ken
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Post  RknRusty Sun May 24, 2015 6:44 am

I've been lucky this season with metal tanks, new and old. Last season all I used were Dubro and Sullivan clunks. One Dubro was plumbed incorrectly for uniflow but inexplicably worked great. When I tried to plumb the Sullivan for the Osprey I never could get uniflow to work ant the hitchhiker tandem was nothing but a technical mess. So I gave up and cut off the uni line just inside the stopper, used it as the fill port, and ran pressure to the overflow, and it worked great.

This year it's all metal tanks which I've aggressively pressure checked, all good and they are working perfectly. Two on uni-pressure, and the Fox's supply on the Yak is standard vent and works well. They all drink the last drop. Keeping my fingers crossed. I have not opened any of them up, as I don't trust my soldering any more than I trust the manufacturer. sooner than later, I'm going to have to get over that. I'm an expert electronic solderer anyway.

In my videos I can see an odd "correction" on many vertical legs that I don't recall making, wondering if it's the hitchy leadouts. I'll see today. I'm going to video a few flights so I can watch. I want to zoom in and just watch myself too. I know I have some radical handle movements that aren't helping. Especially in the OH8s, which I'm finally flying much better. Things are one by one beginning to click for me. It's kind of exciting, but I'm still a long way from the top of Intermediate. I want to get a lot better this Summer.

I'm collecting an Arf Nobler from Wayne today that we trimmed last Summer. I'll need an engine for it. Do you think a 35fp will haul it? I don't know the weight yet. We don't know who built it. Wayne found it abandoned with solid epoxy glued hinges. He went through it, re-hinged it and got it going pretty well. If it doesn't prove to be a good backup contest plane, I'll get another Oriental ARF. Now that I know all about them, I can assemble a new one in pretty short order.
Rusty

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Post  Ken Cook Sun May 24, 2015 7:06 am

Rusty , the FP.35 is a very friendly engine to use. This is an excellent choice for the ARF Nobler and it's easier to tame than the FP.40. The FP .35 is probably the most powerful .35 that was offered. I'm not a fan of the "Enema" aka Enya engines. However, they're probably the second to the FP in terms of power. The problem with the ARF is the covering and the POS wood beams offered for engine mounts. The ARF Nobler is very susceptible to the beams snapping off. The other problem with the ARF is many choose to use engines like the Fox .35. to power these. The oily mess that these engines produce will in 3-4 flights get under the covering and make it shed instantly. There's no fix to this problem. Sealing it is short term. The only way to fix is to strip and recover. Not fun by any means. Brodak offers the ARC opposed to the ARF. A much better and wiser choice. The Nobler though is already done and that's the topic here. Follow the same protocol for the FP.40 using the .35.

Many of our members are using the FP to power the Nobler ARF. Joe Adamusko one of our most experienced builders has many come over his house to do a full redo of the plane. This is one plane I never ventured into. I'm a fan of the Gieseke Nobler and I have a few waiting to be built.
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Post  Forgetful John Sun May 24, 2015 4:46 pm

RknRusty wrote:I've been lucky this season with metal tanks, new and old. Last season all I used were Dubro and Sullivan clunks. One Dubro was plumbed incorrectly for uniflow but inexplicably worked great. When I tried to plumb the Sullivan for the Osprey I never could get uniflow to work ant the hitchhiker tandem was nothing but a technical mess. So I gave up and cut off the uni line just inside the stopper, used it as the fill port, and ran pressure to the overflow, and it worked great.

This year it's all metal tanks which I've aggressively pressure checked, all good and they are working perfectly. Two on uni-pressure, and the Fox's supply on the Yak is standard vent and works well. They all drink the last drop. Keeping my fingers crossed. I have not opened any of them up, as I don't trust my soldering any more than I trust the manufacturer. sooner than later, I'm going to have to get over that. I'm an expert electronic solderer anyway.

Having spent my lifetime repairing electronics I would like to suggest that for tanks, which require more heat than circuit boards you could try an 80-watt soldering iron in tandem with a light dimmer to vary the heat output.  You could even rig the light dimmer with an electrical outlet.  80 will have more than enough power for sheet steel or brass and when throttled down can run all day.

Best Wishes
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Post  RknRusty Sun May 24, 2015 6:14 pm

Thanks for the info, Ken.
I think it was Joe Adamusko that lent a 30 year old plane to young Taylor Gunder to fly in Intermediate, and the boy took second place. Taylor's Dad, Craig Gunder might have been the builder of that plane, I'm not sure.

Today's flights were all radical survival. Nasty nasty wind. I was so excited last night, planning to fly the Oriental and hunt for that magic setting, nail it down with the tach, and then have some fun with the Yak-9. Also I wanted to mate my newest Tom Morris handle with the Ukey for now, and then later to the Oriental's more worthy backup. And then I can use my Mark Boesen handle for random sport planes, as it's more simple to adjust. But better sense forced me to ground every plane but the Ukey.

It's 3 oz tank kept running out of gas in the middle of the clover. I leaned it an 8th of a turn, same thing. Another 8th of a turn, yet again. One more 8th and it was flying screaming fast and still ran out in the clover. That's a new one for this plane. Following earlier flights I pulled nothing but air out of the empty tank. After the last flight I pulled 1/8 ounce out. Tank was aligned, padded shimmed out. A field pressure test passed with all the tubes on it. Strange. It's always had plenty for the pattern and ten laps more.
It'll get a thorough going over. Nothing has been changed since Huntersville, same fuel too.

Looks like June 4th will be my next day out unless I stooge it. I'm not wild about flying alone.
But the good news is, I got a nice well trimmed fairly light ARF Nobler airframe from Wayne. I'm going to use my 35fp in it and it hopefully will suit me for a backup contest plane. I also got a beautifully built I-Beam plane from Bob Zambelli that needs the wing mended and re-covered. I'll be doing it with silkspan, my first time. It's a flapless stunter called Piuma(Italian for Feather). It weighs nothing. My spare 25fp will work great for it.

Wayne maidened his Intermediate Death Star, aka the IDS, which I made the graphics for. Just flat laps with an LA46, so it needs more flights on a calm day. Nothing to video, but here are some pictures.

Hauling freight! And Sunday Flying. Intermediate%20Death%20Star%201_zpscrt44xtp
Hauling freight! And Sunday Flying. Intermediate%20Death%20Star%202_zpsy0gg17tg
Hauling freight! And Sunday Flying. Nobler_zpsqotx2err
Hauling freight! And Sunday Flying. Piuma_zpshzqnakmq
Hauling freight! And Sunday Flying. Piuma2_zps5q0zclrq
Hauling freight! And Sunday Flying. WP_20150524_001_zps3etyo7di

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Post  RknRusty Sun May 24, 2015 6:17 pm

Hi John, maybe that's my problem. I've been using my dual heat Weller gun. I have 25W pencils but that's too weak. I'll look into a more suitable iron.

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Post  Forgetful John Sun May 24, 2015 6:52 pm

RknRusty wrote:Hi John, maybe that's my problem. I've been using my dual heat Weller gun. I have 25W pencils but that's too weak. I'll look into a more suitable iron.

Hey, Rusty,

I didn't want to lay it on you too thick since you and I have been in the same field a long time.  

This is more for other people that only solder occasionally.  80 watts is overkill for a tank but the light dimmer will let you set the heat where it is needed, not to the point where the solder joint becomes "frosty" looking.  With the right temperature it should be easy to solder tanks and also re-work if there is a leak.

Try it, guys and gals, don't let it "tank" on you!   Wink

Later,
John
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Post  Ken Cook Sun May 24, 2015 8:13 pm

Rusty, Philly Fliers had a nice BB-Q and fun fly today. My twin Mustang was out today and Dan with his P-38. Mike Palko and Dan did some double stunt flying with the PT-19's. Shawn and Dan were roaming the skies with the warbirds (video still in progress). I had the camera mounted to my rudder. It was nice out temp wise but the winds were pretty strong. We got bounced around a good bit today. It was certainly not a stunt friendly environment. Good thing we bought the Ringmaster's today. Here's Dan and Mike with the PT's https://www.facebook.com/PhillyFliersCL/videos/vb.513140418756097/860999403970195/?type=1&theater https://    

https://www.facebook.com/PhillyFliersCL/photos/pb.513140418756097.-2207520000.1432517362./860996137303855/?type=3&theater
https://www.facebook.com/PhillyFliersCL/photos/pb.513140418756097.-2207520000.1432518419./861003577303111/?type=1&theater ken


Last edited by Ken Cook on Sun May 24, 2015 8:53 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Post  RknRusty Sun May 24, 2015 8:30 pm

Dang, we shoulda strapped our gear to the roof of Z's Ferrari and driven up there for the day. lol
I'll get back and watch the movies later tonight.
Rusty

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Post  Ken Cook Mon May 25, 2015 5:55 am

I believe that's a brand new rebuild on that engine. His car reminds me of the James Bond Aston Martin DB5. When Bob replaced the bronze valve guides, he saved them. They now happily reside in the crankcases of our Fox .35's. Talk about putting lipstick on a pig. That's a really neat car and I certainly like the sound. Ken
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Post  getback Mon May 25, 2015 8:33 am

Clapping Clapping Clapping Clapping  Good stuff Ken , those PT's really look good flying in formation !! Devil Rusty your going to need a bigger hanger soon with those big ole bird's nice haul !


Last edited by getback on Mon May 25, 2015 8:35 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : add on)
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Post  RknRusty Mon May 25, 2015 11:42 am

Ken Cook wrote:I believe that's a brand new rebuild on that engine. His car reminds me of the James Bond Aston Martin DB5.  When Bob replaced the bronze valve guides, he saved them. They now happily reside in the crankcases of our Fox .35's. Talk about putting lipstick on a pig. That's a really neat car and I certainly like the sound. Ken
That's funny. Lipstick on a pg is right!
When he cranked it last week at Triple Tree, I got behind it just to listen. What a rumble. And the engine's cadence surprised me, I would not have known it was a V-12 if he hadn't told me.
Rusty

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