Line Connectors and Lead-Outs

http://mbsmodelsupply.com/ Ken

Tagged it Thanks Ken , good prices if you don't mine buying in bulk witch I don't . wish they had pics. but that's ok I think I can figure it out when the time comes . Eric

Eric, the knots taught to Scouts have the characteristics of...easy to tie, easy to untie, and does the job. The easy to untie part makes them not good for leadouts. I have been teaching scouts those knots for 34 years (so far).

Most use the Palomar knot on leaouts. There are many drawings and videos on the Palomar knot. Easy to learn...good luck.

George

getback wrote:Tagged it Thanks Ken , good prices if you don't mine buying in bulk witch I don't . wish they had pics. but that's ok I think I can figure it out when the time comes . Eric

I'm wondering how small a clip can be made with the tool that Rusty posted a pic of. Is there a demo-vid on it somewhere? One of Windy U.'s maybe?

My smallest "Luxon" clips are made from larger diameter wire than I would have thought.



Here's a package that I bought from a vendor at the 92 Nat's in Springfield, MA.



Who knows.. maybe they're still in business..

Here's some knot photos that might help.

gcb wrote:Eric, the knots taught to Scouts have the characteristics of...easy to tie, easy to untie, and does the job. The easy to untie part makes them not good for leadouts. I have been teaching scouts those knots for 34 years (so far).

Most use the Palomar knot on leaouts. There are many drawings and videos on the Palomar knot. Easy to learn...good luck.

George

 Well that's a lot better than the uni-knot I have        been tieing , I found this  , Thanks George I can work with that should put the mark dead on when finished . Eric

RknRusty wrote:Roddie, it's not unusual for 1/2A builders to stagger leadouts, and it doesn't appear to induce any flyability issues. It's a good idea for keeping them from hooking each other. I personally don't do it because I have never had a snagging problem with proper clips. I like the Luxon type. I hate the squeeze type on the right because I have trouble hooking them up to lines with thimbles. I like the bent steel type that work like the squeeze clips but are shaped more like paper clips.

They can be made with a simple bending tool. This one is for 1/16" length adjustments that the expert stunters use with the hard point handles. Easy to make out of a .75"-16tpi bolt

Unless Rusty will tell us I guess if you want one that bad you will have to make it I cant find it any were other than images and if you visit the page it bring you back here Eric

getback wrote:

RknRusty wrote:Roddie, it's not unusual for 1/2A builders to stagger leadouts, and it doesn't appear to induce any flyability issues. It's a good idea for keeping them from hooking each other. I personally don't do it because I have never had a snagging problem with proper clips. I like the Luxon type. I hate the squeeze type on the right because I have trouble hooking them up to lines with thimbles. I like the bent steel type that work like the squeeze clips but are shaped more like paper clips.

They can be made with a simple bending tool. This one is for 1/16" length adjustments that the expert stunters use with the hard point handles. Easy to make out of a .75"-16tpi bolt

 Unless Rusty will tell us I guess if you want one that bad you will have to make it  I cant find it any were other than images and if you visit the page it bring you back here  Eric

Lee Machine Shop. There's a link to his email here:

http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,6425.0.html

I bought mine from Jim Lee at the last VSC. I haven't used it yet but I have a bunch of clips a friend of mine bent up on his.

Jim

Oh, sorry, I left out that part. Jim Lee makes and sells all sorts of cool tools.
I've seen the clip bender work. If I recall correctly, you lay the steel wire across the two posts on the bolt ends, slip the bending bar onto one of them and pull the wire around to shape it. I'd have to fiddle with it to get it. But to make clips in 1/16" increments, one turn of the 16 tpi bolt = you guessed it, 1/16".
Rusty

RknRusty wrote:Oh, sorry, I left out that part. Jim Lee makes and sells all sorts of cool tools.
I've seen the clip bender work. If I recall correctly, you lay the steel wire across the two posts on the bolt ends, slip the bending bar onto one of them and pull the wire around to shape it. I'd have to fiddle with it to get it. But to make clips in 1/16" increments, one turn of the 16 tpi bolt = you guessed it, 1/16".
Rusty

So I guess you could make small clips by turning-in the nut to the length required? Can multiple size wire be used? I'm thinking there must be a hole to receive an "L-bend" to keep the wire from slipping? Sorry for the questions.. A friend of mine at the machine shop could make one for me.. to use a smaller wire size. I'd definitely like to try it.

WOW Nice but pricy !! I am like roddie would like to try it but would have to make my own /// I can buy a lot of clips for that price and don't use the hard tail handle ( not saying it s not worth it but not to me ) am sure it is of good quality . Thanks Guys . Eric

Next time I'm at Wayne's, I'll get some detail pictures. Or in H'ville next month if Jim is there.
Rusty

The Bear model products is gone. Owner was Bob Bearden and he has left us for the circle up in the sky. In the last year of his life he sent me some nice stuff and would not let me pay him. I said that after he was gone I would pay his wife. He threatened to come back and haunt me if I did that. I sent her some money and told her the story and hoped that he would actually haunt me but alas he never showed up. Real nice man that left us too soon!

Thanks for bringing that to our attention faif2d , Its always a shame to hear a fellow modeler leave us , its a good thing we have new / young blood getting into the hobby gatback

faif2d wrote:The Bear model products is gone.  Owner was Bob Bearden and he has left us for the circle up in the sky.  In the last year of his life he sent me some nice stuff and would not let me pay him.  I said that after he was gone I would pay his wife.  He threatened to come back and haunt me if I did that.  I sent her some money and told her the story and hoped that he would actually haunt me but alas he never showed up.  Real nice man that left us too soon!

I wanted to bump this thread.. especially after reading this post. R.I.P. Mr. Bearden.

This afternoon I decided to make-up some .015" solid-wire lead-outs for a Sig 1/2A nylon bell-crank to be installed in a little flying wing powered by a Cox .049 product-engine..

I bought this tube of K & S .015" wire many years ago.. knowing that I would use some of it to make solid lead-outs for small airplanes.



This requires having the wire, good-quality needle-nose pliers and a little patience.. (be careful with your eyes.. safety-glasses prevent accidents..) ALSO.. be mindful of any exposed electrical-outlets nearby.. or you could inadvertently do some welding..   (a tip from CEF member Phil-Pkrankow)

My Sig 1/2A Nylon bell-crank came molded with the bearing and elevator-horn parts attached.. needing to be trimmed-off. A #11 blade/handle makes short-work of that.





Start your first 90-degree bend about 1" (25mm) from the end of the wire.. and make the 2nd bend with the "tip" of your pliers.. to form a tight "U"-bend..



... then thread the wire through your bell-crank's lead-out-hole. Again.. using the nose of your pliers as a "spacer" between the bellcrank.. grab the short wire and hold it with the pliers. Using your "fingers".. bend the short wire 90 degrees to form a "box".. and wrap the wire two or three time around. (I'm sorry for the lack of photos showing this..) You want the "boxed-section" to have a non-binding clearance for the bell-crank arms when they move to their extreme positions.



The below photo shows a piece of very small brass tubing that can help to wind the wire tightly against itself for a nice tight coil.. and is easier on the fingers.



If you don't get it quite right the 1st few times.. the .015" wire can be easily snipped-off with standard wire-cutters for giving it another try.

"Solids" are old-school cool .. you just have to be careful not let them get "bent" in storage/transit.