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OS FS30 marine conversion

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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  1/2A Nut on Mon Jul 31, 2017 2:13 am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQYlnBVN-3s




  Published on Jul 30, 2017

With the first engine break in rich run completed the 2nd test on a different weekend I leaned
up the NV some and put on a bigger prop went from a 2.6" total pitch 1st vid to a 3.42" total
pitch today. Very hot test day 106F ! Best peak on the bench to a solid 17,520 rpm but backed
to play it safe just way too hot out all the same the engine did well with no water cooling.
Best pass was 14,534 rpm 43 mph. 4 strokes make a ton of torque I have just begun to tap into
the potential power still far off the right size prop. The engine cooled down after a few passes
average reading out of 14 rpm checks 13.86k the engine is about 4 to 5 clicks off from peak.
I should be able to launch safely at 16.5k rpm next vid with a 3.75" total pitch prop. ABC S-20

Managed to snag a still frame just as the top blade was out of the water:




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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  706jim on Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:03 am

The fact that the engine ran for upwards of four minutes without stopping shows that you're getting away with just air cooling. The speed of the hydro obviously helps here too. I ran my ski boat yesterday in a small bay that got progressively rougher asw time progressed. We're on opposite ends of the speed scale, with my ski boat capable of hitting maybe 15-20mph; haven't had the chance to check it yet from a faster chase boat. But truly remarkable to me is the low fuel consumption. I run a 6 oz tank and at part throttle, the boat ran a good 40 minutes with 1/4 of the fuel remaining when the engine quit. ( I figure the engine loses suction when the fuel level goes below about 1/2 when bouncing through those Lake Superior waves). Have to comment on your 106F temperatures: Here in Canada, 80F is considered pretty hot.

If you lived in Canada, I could probably fit a brass jacket to that engine to cool things down.
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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  1/2A Nut on Mon Jul 31, 2017 8:39 pm

Yes very hot here I am about 4-5 clicks from the sweet spot on top end rpm. I did a second run after this vid
leaned it up 2 more clicks it would clear it's throat and bolt on the straights after each turn. About 5 to 6 mph
faster with the same prop in the this last vid, that had it's best pass at 43mph so 48-49 ish mph. The wind picked
up and the rigger cartwheeled I had to fetch in my Kayak. I did record it but the file is bad it won't play for some reason.
Shows a file size of 2.3 GB

I would have loved to see what happen again. Coming off the straight away I turned into the wind / choppy water
and it did two hops then caught the right sponson inducing the cartwheel lucky for me it landed right side up.
Just needed to back off the throttle a bit in the bad area's.

I have two more props ready to go will try the left one first it may be all the prop I need maxing out the riggers
speed in typical water conditions at my club, to go faster the water will have to be flat calm. The NV will be put on the
sweat spot for max power then backed off just 2 clicks for the next test. The big monos can get up to the low 50's and
not flip if throttle management is used when the wind has the water choppy. I have seen a gas rigger make it to 67 mph
per my radar gun.  Glass smooth is rare at the time most of us show up to run but if willing early in the morning around
8am the conditions are perfect for about 2hrs.

Yes cut the run short at 4mins last time it ran I didn't get the chance to check temp ran it out of fuel rich managed around
51/2 mins. from start up. I think with the right NV setting it should do about 6.5 mins. running full throttle. I have a stainless
steel tank made for the rigger custom size there is room to fit a bigger tank but the guy charges 80 bucks a pop per tank. It
holds about 4.5oz could fit about 2.5oz in size.

Second pic shows the bare case of the engine I am not sure if you can fit a cooling ring due to the way the head bolts stick out.
I appreciate the offer Jim, if it was possible I would buy a bare case and mail it out your way.





Still want to build a big rigger for windy weather this one is 5ft. 1.5" in total length counting the back of the rudder. Perhaps I
can source a OS Surpass that can be converted to water cooling something like a 120 size. Shown with a Saito .72 and 31.5"
total drive line to the end of the stub shaft.

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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  706jim on Mon Jul 31, 2017 10:13 pm

To fit a cooling jacket, the top five fins would be machined away to form a cylindrical surface. The engine is then "dry assembled" with the liner head and pushrod tubes in place and then you carefully measure the clearance between the pushrod tubes and the crankcase using number size twist drills as inexpensive shims. The water jacket is then machined to a slightly smaller outside diameter and shrink fit onto the crankcase. For my FS30 conversion, using this method, there is enough clearance between the pushrod tubes and the brass jacket to fit a sheet of paper; no more!
So you pretty well need the whole engine assembly to do the conversion properly. As to the diameter the fins are machined off to, I remove as much material as possible while still leaving the head bolt threads complete with maybe .2mm stock allowance.
Altogether a fun project for someone who likes metalworking.

BTW, I think you're pretty brave running these models without a retrieval boat. They have a way of quitting in the most inopportune locations.
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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  1/2A Nut on Tue Aug 01, 2017 12:55 am

I use a fishing pole with a yellow rubber practice casting weight, If need be I
use this Kayak "Intex K1 Challenger" here to fetch. It airs up fast ready to roll in about
10 mins once out of the bag. Thick mill vinyl very tough $89 bucks.

The air pump shoves big volumes of air in per cycle. I always bring it on reserve,
most days the club boat with outboard engine is there to use. 2 club members have
engines they bring they have pickup trucks with hitches the club boat stays up the top
of the road when not in use on a trailer.




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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  1/2A Nut on Tue Aug 01, 2017 7:25 pm

Jim I am looking at the top bolts and the lugs stick out too on your OS .30 how did you get around them
to achieve good leak free water cooling? Seems like all the Surpasses are this way. Do you have any pics
of the case after it has been prepped for the ring?





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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  706jim on Wed Aug 02, 2017 9:24 am

On the FS30 there is very little room for a water passage. The upper fins are blocked once they have been machined up to the head bolts. The bottom fin is the only one with a complete passage around the block. And the area where the piston pin removal hole (not used on the FS30) was slotted open with a dremel. I needed to mill small passages under the water fittings to provide a passage to the lower fin region. Finally, the existing 2.5mm head bolts needed to be replaced with 20mm long ones so that the bottom of the tapped holes could be sealed. (If not, water would leak out of those)

The larger OS engines, 40 and up, have a piston pin removal hole lower down in the block meaning that a larger passage can be machined into the block for cooling with a lot less fuss than the FS30 required. There are photos here somewhere showing the machined block for an OS FS48 but I don't have any for the 30.

After running my Ski Daddle Too with the FS30, I think even the 20 or 26 four stroke would have adequate power to push the boat along nicely, but I couldn't figure out a way to modify the block because of the location of the piston pin removal hole (smack in the middle of the cooling fins).

There's another modeler on RC groups (Gkymaz or something like that) who has a partially completed FS30 mod that you might be able to find.

But the larger OS four strokes should be able to be modified for water cooling with a bit of effort.
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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  1/2A Nut on Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:14 pm

For sure sounds like a challenge each time Jim. I think you would have no issues running the 20 and 26 without
cooling just a matter of getting them in the water soon as possible and moving, that and be content running them
at least 2 clicks off peak or with a robust oil %. Next batch of fuel I buy will be 5% castor and 20% synthetic 50% nitro
25% methanol.

I need to buy a bottle of castor and add some to the mix on hand just enough to aid in cooling with the existing
dominating % of synthetic should help keep the engine flushed avoiding build up. Nitro naturally helps cool the
engine a big plus.

Since you run at a lake perhaps a big water rigger like these Jap boats could get you a run in when the winds
have the water all choppy. They are so long they engine needs to be in the back to help balance them out.








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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

Post  1/2A Nut on Mon Aug 07, 2017 1:54 am



Radar pass at 42 mph ABC S-20
Forgot to tighten the plug lol did a gps run with a Dynamite logger got 44mph with
a tight plug extra compression makes a difference.


Tested the high pitched Octura 2250 rough water day had to take it easy in the open and turns.
Would gun it along the shore line, two run efforts in this vid ends with a rough water flip.
Info so far: 12,744 rpm pass into the wind and hit 46 mph

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Re: OS FS30 marine conversion

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