What's so great about inverted flight?

Oh crap!

It's ok, they make new ones every day.

Ya man, it's part of the fun!

And it is fun!

I tried it once, but it created a flat spot on my head and my hair just didn't look right.

jsesere wrote:I tried it once, but it created a flat spot on my head and my hair just didn't look right.

I did that with my E-flite Apprentice years ago... had the same affect....

cribbs74 wrote:Beats me....... Stuff like this happens!



Or try this link. https://i.imgur.com/lTu9f.jpg

It was fun while it lasted.

good grief ron you don't give up until you break them do you?? do you want me to send you the sterling baby ringmaster i am building? plans on the way.

p.s. you never heard of epoxy or super glue??

edited 9-1-12 7:44p.m. PST it happens in RC as well. this is my 1 meter "V"tail mini wanderer scratchbuild glider. with oldtime beaver glider nose hatch in background.



happydad

Funny thing is yesterday I screwed up on my stooge launch and the Baby Ring took off VOG up to 20' or so looped back on itself and cut the down line. The next three seconds were a flurry of loops and an eventual stall that turned into a flat spin and a belly flop landing.

The only damage was a loose horizontal stab. This one was a full on nose dive inverted into the grass. Not to worry. All fixed and almost good as new now.

Sorry to hear you broke your beaver nose.....

cribbs74 wrote:Funny thing is yesterday I screwed up on my stooge launch and the Baby Ring took off VOG up to 20' or so looped back on itself and cut the down line. The next three seconds were a flurry of loops and an eventual stall that turned into a flat spin and a belly flop landing.

The only damage was a loose horizontal stab. This one was a full on nose dive inverted into the grass. Not to worry. All fixed and almost good as new now.

Sorry to hear you broke your beaver nose.....

almost forgot, you might try adding 1/4 x 1/4inch triangular stock where the elevator assembly meets the fuselage for support. hd

Hey, Ron, now you can glue the stab on straight. Maybe it'll stop going limp and rolling in on you.

I like to use toothpicks through the stab and into the fuse. I find this to give you good glue area. It's a clean look and it really helps keep things from sliding around when you initially build the model. Bb-q skewers also work quite well. I don't use CA and I use much slower drying adhesives. I just can't seem to get the hang of the stuff. I always find more CA on me than the parts. Ken

RknRusty wrote:Hey, Ron, now you can glue the stab on straight. Maybe it'll stop going limp and rolling in on you.

Yep, Glued it on straight last night. Still rolls in once and a while. I am still not entirely sure it's not me. Everytging happens so fast it's hard to tell. No worries though as I tried inverted again today while I was attempting to show off to my neighbor. Wham!!!!!! Snapped the nose off. The epoxy is drying as I write this.

Hey, you ever thought of putting a .09 on the Bean? The instructions show a Fox Rocket .09 hanging off the nose. I may have a rocket coming in the very near future.

Ken Cook wrote: I like to use toothpicks through the stab and into the fuse. I find this to give you good glue area. It's a clean look and it really helps keep things from sliding around when you initially build the model. Bb-q skewers also work quite well. I don't use CA and I use much slower drying adhesives. I just can't seem to get the hang of the stuff. I always find more CA on me than the parts. Ken

Ken,

I took your advice and went with Sig-Ment this go around on the engine mount. I love the smell of it. Seems pretty solid this morning. Can you recommend a good 2 part epoxy?

I have used tooth picks while building, more for structural integrity. I have a BBQ skewer on the nose of the Baby Ring, but I used it like a dowel to keep the landing gear in place.

Ron, one thing to keep in mind when using Ambroid or Sig-Ment. You double glue the areas. You put it on both surfaces, wait until it dries then sand both areas slightly. Glue the areas again and you will be amazed at the tack and the strength of the joint when completed. I like to epoxy the firewall areas and if a rudder or stab breaks off, I use epoxy for the repairs. Keeping Sig- Ment and Ambroid handy in your pit box is also a great idea. You can coat exposed wood areas which get affected in a break and these will dry quickly to fuel proof that area until you can get home and repair. I use Bob Smith epoxies, I'm just not a big fan of the stuff. You never seem to know how old the stock is, I also found it to shatter like hard plastic as well due to it losing it's flexibility. I'm not saying not to use as it's the most readily available. Since the learning curve is more like the school of hard knocks it may just be the easiest to use. Tower Hobbies also has some inexpensive multi set epoxies. Personally, I use West Sytems epoxy which is a commercial grade epoxy used for full size aircraft and marine usage. It's considerably more expensive. They have several different products but again, these are expensive. The best thing you can do is to keep your fleet flying and not get discouraged as this has driven more people from the hobby than anything else. Find what's cheap and use it. You'll be surprised what new words your vocabulary has developed, especially when you blast in a full bodied stunter. Ken

That's kinda what I did. The tube said to coat both pieces then let dry 2-3 minutes. After that it said to press the pieces together and then clamp.

I will try the sanding trick when I snap it off again who knows it may be soon as tonight!

For me screwing them in is no fun, but I enjoy the flight so much it negates the downtime!

Thanks,

Ron

Ron, are you wrapping fiberglass tape at all around your firewall? Back in the day strips of gauze or even cloth hinge material was used in addition with glue. The fiberglass works real well and is literally undetectable. It really provides great shock resistance and strength. Many of the Sterling kits had the nylon mount on the front. The design was cheap and really a bad design as the fuse would snap directly behind the mount. I always admired the Goldberg designs for incorporating this into their 1/2 A kits. It certainly is light and plenty strong not mention it prevent any oil migration into the ply layers if you wrap it all the way around. Ken

Just changed over to the West System epoxies. Expensive stuff, but once you try it, you wont go back to Bob Smith or the rebadged stuff. I just found it much easier to deal with. Mixed properly, it flows like water and sets like concrete and doesent yellow up as bad after time. Most boat repair places have it, I found it at a marine supply parts store locally,,both the resin and the 205 and 206 hardener and pumper sets for the containers.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/epoxy-resins-and-hardeners

I know, I know,,kinda a sad indicator of how well you fly buying that much epoxy,, ,,but I have other projects waiting in the wings that it will get used on. I don't think Bob Smith is going to go hungry any time soon,,I think I have controlling stock in the company.

Ken Cook wrote: Ron, are you wrapping fiberglass tape at all around your firewall? Back in the day strips of gauze or even cloth hinge material was used in addition with glue. The fiberglass works real well and is literally undetectable. It really provides great shock resistance and strength. Many of the Sterling kits had the nylon mount on the front. The design was cheap and really a bad design as the fuse would snap directly behind the mount. I always admired the Goldberg designs for incorporating this into their 1/2 A kits. It certainly is light and plenty strong not mention it prevent any oil migration into the ply layers if you wrap it all the way around. Ken

No, I didn't as this was a scratch build so I didn't have any available. Eventually I will probably re-do the front end properly and ply past the wing as you suggested and use balsa blocks as braces. Cover that in fibreglass strips and it should be indestructable.

Will regular fibreglass cloth work? I have some for automotive applications. I also have some in my unbuilt Goldberg kits although I don't want to scavenge from a complete kit.

Ron

PV Pilot wrote:Just changed over to the West System epoxies. Expensive stuff, but once you try it, you wont go back to Bob Smith or the rebadged stuff. I just found it much easier to deal with. Mixed properly, it flows like water and sets like concrete and doesent yellow up as bad after time. Most boat repair places have it, I found it at a marine supply parts store locally,,both the resin and the 205 and 206 hardener and pumper sets for the containers.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/epoxy-resins-and-hardeners

I know, I know,,kinda a sad indicator of how well you fly buying that much epoxy,, ,,but I have other projects waiting in the wings that it will get used on. I don't think Bob Smith is going to go hungry any time soon,,I think I have controlling stock in the company.

I'll check that stuff out. Thanks Keith.

Ron

cribbs74 wrote:Hey, you ever thought of putting a .09  on the Bean? The instructions show a Fox Rocket .09 hanging off the nose. I may have a rocket coming in the very near future.  

No, I'd never even seen a Tee Dee .049 at the time I built the bean and I wondered what those funny engines in the pictures with the venturi in front were. My instructions show a radial mounted Bee on the nose. I'm going to go look at my plans though, since I haven't looked at them since then. I would think it would be way too much for it. you'd have to add a good chunk of tail weight. Mine never needed any balancing weight on either end with the BW. A Tee Dee .049 would make it extremely fast as it's way lighter than the streak. I did fly it with my souped up Medallion and a party balloon tank and it flew pretty good. That was about the time it parted company with the bellcrank and the inboard ribs.[/quote]

Hmm weird, the box says .049-.099

Your plans show a TD eh? Mine show a rear intake Rocket .09 as an optional engine and how to mount it.

The plans do say stunt,sport and combat so maybe if you were going to race the bean it would be OK. I'll probably just put a widow on mine or the RR1

Ron.

Remember one thing in regards to the Fox.09, it was very underpowered and very over rated. The Fox .049 - .07 on the other hand were very powerful and would do a tremendous job. I have a Fox Comet .07 now which is quite difficult to find plugs for and other parts. The .049 shares the same plug setup. The Fox .09 has a plug that is very different and difficult to find. Ken

Ken Cook wrote: Remember one thing in regards to the Fox.09, it was very underpowered and very over rated. The Fox .049 - .07 on the other hand were very powerful and would do a tremendous job. I have a Fox Comet .07 now which is quite difficult to find plugs for and other parts. The .049 shares the same plug setup. The Fox .09 has a plug that is very different and difficult to find. Ken

Thanks for the info Ken.

I have been trying to get my hands on a Fox .049 FAI for quite some time now. The only time I ever find them is when they are NIB and way over priced.

Ron

The FAI version is a neat engine. This isn't the engine that you would want for sport control line. The regular version, has a rectangular exhaust cut out just like a Cox. The FAI versions were built by two other fellows and the demise came when one passed away. On the FAI version, the sides of the cutout are angled. The plain Jane Fox.049 is a great little engine. Pretty much Black Widow power. I've had a few good runners but I had a few that broke the crank. They needle well but sometimes just like to just shut off. I believe the plug is suspect here. Ken