Please help identify this engine

Look out, the only engine in stevej's photo that
uses a fine thread needle(128tpi) is the "190".
As far as I know, the 190 and the Spook were
the only reedies that used the fine thread needle.
Bob

Thanks for all the replies, is this engine worth fixing. Seems like it has tons of compression for a little engine. Also can I get a motor mount for it? Does it just run with standard nitro fuel, I've read some post that say nitro with castor oil? Anything helps. Thanks

It's affectionately called a postage stamp engine, due to the square backplate.  Here is a pic of mine that came out of a red Cox Corsair.  You can see how the throttle set up works.  Mine also has an aftermarket prop and Goldberg postage-stamp engine mount.

Also, check the case to see if there is a hole where the throttle spring would go through, see my pic above for the location.

Thanks for the pix wingingit. Looks like I'm missing some parts. Is this a good runner?

I've never run it yet.

Travis, is that spinner prop nut made of aluminum?

It's a silver rubber spinner and it was made by Cox, only on their Corsair for a very small run, most were red rubber spinners.

See here for more info on that and the postage stamp mount.
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t1970-odd-ball-engine

Adapters for these backplates show up on Ebay fairly often. This one is running now:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carl-Goldberg-ENGINE-MOUNT-for-COX-049-W-PLASTIC-BACKPLATE-NEW-vintage-pack-/151097293416?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item232e19ba68

They seem pretty flimsy before mounting to the engine, but lock up good and strong once the backplate screws are tightened.

stevej wrote:Travis, is that spinner prop nut made of aluminum?

Here's one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COX-BABE-BEE-049-CONTROL-LINE-OR-FREE-FLIGHT-MODEL-AIRPLANE-ENGINE-USED-/121158967278?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item1c35a31fee

It's an average runner, not good, not bad.

It should have a dual bypass cylinder on it.

The ones I've ran are ok. I do have a mount for them, but they usually get broken down and thrown in the parts bin.

Ron

The motor does not have a hole for the throttle spring. How does the throttle spring work? Does it just change the back pressure, which changes rpm's? Also it looks like a dual bypass, with exhaust ports on each side of the head.

Since it does not have the throttle spring hole, it's less likely that the cylinder is the correct one, since that is one that is ground down for the throttle sleeve.

You are correct in that the throttle sleeve chokes the exhaust.

Does this mean it will only have one speed,or is this bad news?

An engine without a throttle sleeve is run at WOT, so yes it is only one speed. You can put a throttle sleeve on it and use a return spring or servo so it can return to idle.

Cox International has needles, springs, tanks, reeds/holders and other backplates available, so you can refurbish/modify it to suit if you like.
When it gets here, I'm replacing the postage stamp backplate on mine with one suitable to mount in my PT-19 ARF.
Parts're all pretty much interchangeable on extruded-case reed .049s.

Fine for sport use.

Terry

i will agree its a product engine i have one identical how it runs i dont know i havent cleaned and put new gasket etc.glow plug is really chewed up on mine.looks like someone used pliers or vice grips on mine. This is ano! NO! always use proper wrench. This engine came as a group lot and want to keep it original because it is the only one like this i have.I think i will have to use vice grips though it wont take a wrench anymore maybe some heat at the same time.It may work the way it is but it looks like crap but has good compression!any Ideas

craig bernard wrote:i will agree its a product engine i have one identical how it runs i dont know i havent cleaned and put new gasket etc.glow plug is really chewed up on mine.looks like someone used pliers or vice grips on mine. This is ano! NO! always use proper wrench. This engine came as a group lot and want to keep it original because it is the only one like this i have.I think i will have to use vice grips though it wont take a wrench anymore maybe some heat at the same time.It may work the way it is  but it looks like crap but has good compression!any Ideas

Cut a piece of leather from an old belt or something just big enough to wrap around the cylinder. That way you can turn it with a pair if channel locks without doing further damage.

Jim

The Cox 190's or 290's if purchased separate were decent engines. I remember model plane magazine articles on using them for .049 reed valve CL speed and beginner profiles. They had subport injection (SPI), were used in the Cox RTF P-51 with rubber band on wing in both turtle deck and bubble canopy versions. Goldberge made a nylon mount for them, so they could be used in a balsa plane. Another solution was to cut off the back flanges flush with the screws and make a mount out of two pieces of sheet metal.

They weren't bad considering that they became donor engines when one Figure-9'd their aircraft, scattering parts far and wide enough for an NTSB crash investigation scene.   

Could someone help me out on putting together a list of parts to get this engine running. I would like to make sure I get the right parts. I will probably buy from cox international.

List:

Needle ( fine thread ?)
Spring starter
Motor mount
Tank
Anything Missing? Any links?