Guillows Spitfire park flyer FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!

cribbs74 wrote: ...... what about tail wheels? I am looking at some tail wheels on ebay now, vintage stuff prob 1/2a but they may be too big. Any ideas? Opinions?

I don't know what diameter you're interested in for a tailwheel, but I've used wheels from Hotwheels cars and other small wheels found in many children's toys, such as K'nex. Usually if you have access to a toybox, rummaging around in the bottom will dredge up a handful of broken or discarded toys that have useful parts you can grab. Just don't let the kids see you.

Sullivan Products has wheels down to 1/2", but I've found some good toy wheels 5/16" to 3/8".

SuperDave wrote:Ron:

I believe that another canopy is available from Guillows. Try them and see.

I've asked "Santa" for the Spit #403 kit from Guillow's. SHE usually, but not always, grants my wishes, so I'm optimist. I found it in-stock and availabe at www.oakridgehobbies.com for $32.99 + postage as opposed to Guillows at $44.99 + postage.

Hope that you caught the helpful information here on doing camo finishes.

Now try to locate a decent air brush sel -up w/compressor, hoses and accessories.......

You can save shipping and get them from your local hobby shop, too. They have been sold in every one I've ever been in.

I have some little "perfect" brand ones tht must be like 1/2" diameter.

[quote="cribbs74"]

nitroairplane wrote: but maybe this is just what happens to old stock thats been shipped from the US!

nitro:

You didn't include a smiley with that shot. You must be serious.

Am I ever serious?

[quote="nitroairplane"]

cribbs74 wrote:I really need some advice here, I know I promised no more frame pics, but I went ahead and tacked on the landing gear. In my opinion they look cartoonish and not really befitting of a scale model. I think they belong on a push toy. Anyway, I have 2 options...finish out the model sans gear or find some wheels that look more correct. Do they make any that small? what about tail wheels? I am looking at some tail wheels on ebay now, vintage stuff prob 1/2a but they may be too big. Any ideas? Opinions? Thanks for looking.



I think for models this size unless you take off from a dead smoothe surface landing gear is more trouble than its worth.
BTW i just sent you a PM.

Also, more unnecessary drag, and who ever saw a Spifire flying with it's wheels down, apart from during landing or takeoff?

Wilf

[quote="Ivanhoe"]

nitroairplane wrote:

cribbs74 wrote:I really need some advice here, I know I promised no more frame pics, but I went ahead and tacked on the landing gear. In my opinion they look cartoonish and not really befitting of a scale model. I think they belong on a push toy. Anyway, I have 2 options...finish out the model sans gear or find some wheels that look more correct. Do they make any that small? what about tail wheels? I am looking at some tail wheels on ebay now, vintage stuff prob 1/2a but they may be too big. Any ideas? Opinions? Thanks for looking.



I think for models this size unless you take off from a dead smoothe surface landing gear is more trouble than its worth.
BTW i just sent you a PM.

Also, more unnecessary drag, and who ever saw a Spifire flying with it's wheels down, apart from during landing or takeoff?

Wilf

I've seen a few models...

Maybe but they were probably larger.

Hey Ron,

For the tailwheel on a plane this small, you can spin one from ply if you have a Dremel Tool. Just use a compass to make the diameter you need on an appropriate thickness of ply, and drill the center hole to fit a small diameter brass tube, but leave out the tube for the moment. Rough cut it with some slack around the outside of the circle. Chuck it in the Dremel with one of the stems used to hold cutting wheels, and use varying grades of sandpaper to work it down where you need it.

You can even use the folded edge of some sandpaper to simulate the inner rim/tire where they would meet. When shaped, CA an appropriate piece of brass tubing in the center. Use a magic marker to black it out and you've got a close to scale tailwheel.

Kim wrote:Hey Ron,

For the tailwheel on a plane this small, you can spin one from ply if you have a Dremel Tool. Just use a compass to make the diameter you need on an appropriate thickness of ply, and drill the center hole to fit a small diameter brass tube, but leave out the tube for the moment. Rough cut it with some slack around the outside of the circle. Chuck it in the Dremel with one of the stems used to hold cutting wheels, and use varying grades of sandpaper to work it down where you need it.

You can even use the folded edge of some sandpaper to simulate the inner rim/tire where they would meet. When shaped, CA an appropriate piece of brass tubing in the center. Use a magic marker to black it out and you've got a close to scale tailwheel.

Good idea Kim. I may forgo the landing gear, but a tailwheel doesn't tuck away so this sounds like a good do-able option thanks! I like the mini lathe idea good one!

Any thoughts on using basswood (rather than balsa) stringers in the Spit's nose section to add strength?

SuperDave wrote:Any thoughts on using basswood (rather than balsa) stringers in the Spit's nose section to add strength?

Don't see why it would be an issue, shouldn't add much weight overall. Not sure if the larger versions use 1/16" stringers like my 16" span but, they are very brittle. Basswood may be just the right ticket. On the other hand the plug blanking made the nose section as tough as concrete.

Ron:

A "bird" told me that the Series 4 Spit' has been ordered for me for Christmas and that a Harbor Freight air brsh set was a "distinct possiblity".

Here's hoping.

I have my fingers crossed for you Dave.
I love that feeling.

nitroairplane wrote:I have my fingers crossed for you Dave.
I love that feeling.

True if the "giving" part of Christmas isn't forgotten. I enjoy "giving" as much as I do "getting".

I believe that is the essence of the spirit of Christmas. It's a time of joy and celebration.

'tis the season to be joyful.
I like giving because the look on peoples faces when they receive something they are really happy with is better than any present you are likely to receive.

SuperDave wrote:
Ron:

A "bird" told me that the Series 4 Spit' has been ordered for me for Christmas and that a Harbor Freight air brsh set was a "distinct possiblity".

Here's hoping.

Super Dave,

That's some good news, I may check that air brush kit out for myself, my wife is heavily into crafting so she may end up using it as well. Or I can buy it for her and use it for things that I want to do! That's a much better Idea that way I can ask for something else.

Kim:

As to "bricks" the the fuse of a Guillows Spit', what thickness balsa material are you using? Are you using sheet balsa or actual blocks of balsa?

Thanks.

SuperDave wrote:Kim:

As to "bricks" the the fuse of a Guillows Spit', what thickness balsa material are you using? Are you using sheet balsa or actual blocks of balsa?

Thanks.

Super Dave,

I know this was directed at Kim but, he told me to use 1/16" in the straight sections and 1/8" in curved sections. I used sheet balsa for both. I went with the grain on my cuts and I was able to knock it out very quickly. I only ended up using the 1/8" balsa on the small curved spaces directly behind the fire wall and in between the first bulkhead.

cribbs74 wrote:

SuperDave wrote:Kim:

As to "bricks" the the fuse of a Guillows Spit', what thickness balsa material are you using? Are you using sheet balsa or actual blocks of balsa?

Thanks.

Super Dave,

I know this was directed at Kim but, he told me to use 1/16" in the straight sections and 1/8" in curved sections. I used sheet balsa for both. I went with the grain on my cuts and I was able to knock it out very quickly. I only ended up using the 1/8" balsa on the small curved spaces directly behind the fire wall and in between the first bulkhead.

Really any thickness will work, as long as enough area contacts the inside edges of the frame to get a good glue joint all around the block, and ALSO cover any radius'---curve of bulkheads---of the fuselage, ect.

Use soft scrap, and REALLY try to use old-school model cement or Duco Household Cement, as it sands the same as the wood. CA tends to make a rock-hard seam at the glue joints, and will resist sanding down smoothly , flush with the frame.



I've still got some good Ambroid Cement, and use it whenever I'm working a project that involves carving blocks of balsa ---cowlings and such...

Ron:

Thanks, I noticed that you were "on-line" and would likely respond.

I've built previous Guillows P-51's by "sheeting" them with both 1/8" and 1/16" sheet balsa but found "sheeting" ineffective in achieving the shapes so typical of the 'Stag especially in the under-wing oil cooler scoop area..

It is difficult for me to call the technique "blocking" as "blocks" are not used but rather sheets. But I get the concept the "fillers" are added between the stringers which follow the shapes of the airframe as precisely as possible.

Also basswood stringers would only further strengthen "stress points" where needed.

Ron:

Not being able to source Ambriod, I've gone to "Sigment" (at my LHS) which is fuel-proof and with similar adhesive qualities as Ambroid. The only real diffence being the colors of the cements.

I used the term "blocking" as the pieces actually protrude beyond the frame, and are sanded down to assume it's shape. Sheeting, to me implies a layer, glued to the outer edges, which actually changes the dimensions of the frame. Blocking is a big help in areas like a 51's doghouse area, as it can help continue it with a true compound curve, rather than the series of flats you get with tissue covering.