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Post  SuperDave Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:09 am

Kim:

Please see if I've got this correctly:

"Blocking" is sheet material pieces indidually cut to fit between the stringers then sanded to the contours of the framing. (as shown in you diagram) "Blocking" is best adhered with CA cement.

I THINK this it how it works. Lemme know if it's not. Thanks.


Last edited by SuperDave on Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  PV Pilot Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:12 am

Blocking,, balsa chunk bondo.
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:12 am

Kim wrote:I used the term "blocking" as the pieces actually protrude beyond the frame, and are sanded down to assume it's shape. Sheeting, to me implies a layer, glued to the outer edges, which actually changes the dimensions of the frame. Blocking is a big help in areas like a 51's doghouse area, as it can help continue it with a true compound curve, rather than the series of flats you get with tissue covering.

I was wondering if you thought I "sheeted" my spit. I should have been more clear, I used balsa sheets to make the blocks.
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Post  SuperDave Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:19 am

Ron:

I believe, as you apparently do, that "blocking" implies the use of thick "chunks" of balsa between the stringers when, if I undertand Kim's diagram correctly, the "blocks" are often no more than 1/16 to 1/8" inches thick.

If so, makes sense 2 me.
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:55 am

SuperDave wrote:Kim:

Please see if I've got this correctly:

"Blocking" is sheet material pieces indidually cut to fit between the stringers then sanded to the contours of the framing. (as shown in you diagram) "Blocking" is best adhered with CA cement.

I THINK this it how it works. Lemme know if it's not. Thanks.

Kim can correct me if I am wrong. Yes to all the above except no on the CA. Dry CA is much harder to sand than balsa so you end up sanding off more balsa than CA which leaves a wavy surface. Using a soft glue will allow you to sand off the balsa and glue at the same rate. Smoother finish. I didn't listen to Kim's suggestion and used CA on mine and that is what I experienced. I was able to salvage my mess by shaving the hard CA off with my razor knife. It worked, but it took a long time.
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Post  Cribbs74 Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:58 am

SuperDave wrote:Ron:

I believe, as you apparently do, that "blocking" implies the use of thick "chunks" of balsa between the stringers when, if I undertand Kim's diagram correctly, the "blocks" are often no more than 1/16 to 1/8" inches thick.

If so, makes sense 2 me.

Yes, we agree. I made "blocks" or plugs using 1/16" and 1/8" sheets
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Post  SuperDave Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:11 pm

Ron:

Hope you read my thread re: Sullivan Golden Cables as pushrods. I plan to use #507's on my Spit'.
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Post  Kim Fri Nov 18, 2011 1:05 pm

PV Pilot wrote:Blocking,, balsa chunk bondo.

Blocks, rocks, chunks, and pieces....
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Nov 19, 2011 10:55 pm

SuperDave wrote:Ron:

Hope you read my thread re: Sullivan Golden Cables as pushrods. I plan to use #507's on my Spit'.

Will do Super Dave.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:05 pm

OK here is the progress so far, basically I have covered most of the Spit with the exception of the aft fuselage. I installed the control rods, engine and modified the cowl to accept the TD .010. I used olive drab monocote and will paint the camo on when I have finished the covering. This thing is small......... I dont like the way the elevator functions as it is "v" notched in the rear and likes to flex when it moves up and down, the side the control horn is on has more movement than the other. I need to figure out a way to brace it so they move evenly without messing up the appearance.

[img]Guillows Spitfire park flyer FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!! - Page 4 Photo11[/img]


Last edited by cribbs74 on Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:19 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Word choice)
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Post  Kim Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:08 am

Guess it'd take some surgery, but I usually used a round toothpick to connect the two surfaces. I'm sorry that it didn't occur to me to mention this earlier! Maybe you can notch into both surfaces (from the bottom side) and also cut a notch in the rudder post, then slip the toothpick in to be CA'd.
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:11 am

cribbs74 wrote:OK here is the progress so far, basically I have covered most of the Spit with the exception of the aft fuselage. I installed the control rods, engine and modified the cowl to accept the TD .010. I used olive drab monocote and will paint the camo on when I have finished the covering. This thing is small......... I dont like the way the elevator functions as it is "v" notched in the rear and likes to flex when it moves up and down, the side the control horn is on has more movement than the other. I need to figure out a way to brace it so they move evenly without messing up the appearance.

[img]Guillows Spitfire park flyer FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!! - Page 4 Photo11[/img]

Nice plane!
Can't wait till its done!
Will you be getting a video?
Indra
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:21 am

Kim wrote:Guess it'd take some surgery, but I usually used a round toothpick to connect the two surfaces. I'm sorry that it didn't occur to me to mention this earlier! Maybe you can notch into both surfaces (from the bottom side) and also cut a notch in the rudder post, then slip the toothpick in to be CA'd.

Kim,

I used balsa to make doublers, there is actually four extra pieces of 1/16 balsa in there to beef up that notch. Toothpick didn't even cross my mind. I could carefully unglue and recover or I could do what you said Very Happy
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:28 am

nitroairplane wrote:
cribbs74 wrote:OK here is the progress so far, basically I have covered most of the Spit with the exception of the aft fuselage. I installed the control rods, engine and modified the cowl to accept the TD .010. I used olive drab monocote and will paint the camo on when I have finished the covering. This thing is small......... I dont like the way the elevator functions as it is "v" notched in the rear and likes to flex when it moves up and down, the side the control horn is on has more movement than the other. I need to figure out a way to brace it so they move evenly without messing up the appearance.

[img]Guillows Spitfire park flyer FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!! - Page 4 Photo11[/img]

Nice plane!

Thanks Indra,

Sure! I could video the inevitable crash for you.


Can't wait till its done!
Will you be getting a video?
Indra
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Post  microflitedude Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:49 am

How much does she weigh?

Looks nice!
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:51 am

microflitedude wrote:How much does she weigh?

Looks nice!

3.15 ounces including battery and servos. I don't have a receiver yet but I am hoping to keep it at 4 oz dry. We shall see. I plan on using a 3 blade .020 prop, Nitro said to keep the weight down due to lack of thrust. I like the look of a 3 blade better. Seems to be a better "fit" for a Spit.
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Post  SuperDave Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:53 am

Ron:

Know that I'm hanging on every Spit' post that you make. Your observations will be of great assistance when I build the larger vesion of the Guillow's Spit' which I BELIEVE (and hope) will arrive for Christmas.

"Standing on the shoulders of a pioneer" is always helpful.

Carry on!
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Post  Ivanhoe Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:28 am

"I dont like the way the elevator functions as it is "v" notched in the rear and likes to flex when it moves up and down, the side the control horn is on has more movement than the other."

You'd probably get great flick rolls though!
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:32 am

Ron jut though I would remind you that monokote is like the heaviest covering around Smile
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:04 am

SuperDave wrote:Ron:

Know that I'm hanging on every Spit' post that you make. Your observations will be of great assistance when I build the larger vesion of the Guillow's Spit' which I BELIEVE (and hope) will arrive for Christmas.

"Standing on the shoulders of a pioneer" is always helpful.

Carry on!

Thanks SD,

That means a lot coming from you! If you decide to use a modern covering try and find one with a flat finish. The monokote is a bit too glossy for my liking. I think they make a flat clear coat and I may frost the entire plane with it to dull the finish and seal the decals. Another thing I learned the hard way is that when monokote shrinks it likes to warp. Took me a while and a few recoverings to set the dihedral back to where it is supposed to be.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:07 am

nitroairplane wrote:Ron jut though I would remind you that monokote is like the heaviest covering around Smile

Indra,

I did not know that! The good thing is since the model is so small it didn't add much weight. I think on a large plane it would definitely be an issue. Hindsight is always 20/20.
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Post  Cribbs74 Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:12 am

Ivanhoe wrote:"I dont like the way the elevator functions as it is "v" notched in the rear and likes to flex when it moves up and down, the side the control horn is on has more movement than the other."

You'd probably get great flick rolls though!

If I was an accomplished pilot that might be ok, for now I am looking for stability. I don't want my elevator to be an aileron. I am beefing up my skills with a park zone playmate. The last 3 flights I have managed to not crash. This thing however will fly totally different. I only have 30 sec of experience with a low wing and it ended very badly. I am wary about flying my Sig hummer again.
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Post  Ivanhoe Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:14 pm

cribbs74 wrote:
Ivanhoe wrote:"I dont like the way the elevator functions as it is "v" notched in the rear and likes to flex when it moves up and down, the side the control horn is on has more movement than the other."

You'd probably get great flick rolls though!

If I was an accomplished pilot that might be ok, for now I am looking for stability. I don't want my elevator to be an aileron. I am beefing up my skills with a park zone playmate. The last 3 flights I have managed to not crash. This thing however will fly totally different. I only have 30 sec of experience with a low wing and it ended very badly. I am wary about flying my Sig hummer again.

No pilot, no matter how experienced, could handle an asymmetric elevator!

The main problem with any model of a fighter is that the fullsize aircraft has GOT to be inherently unstable in order to make it manouverable enough in combat, extra dihedral on the model helps, as does a larger tailplane (Hor.Stab) but because the CG is above the wing the danger of sideslips, or rolling is always present, you get no pendulum stability as you do with a high or shoulder wing.
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Post  nitroairplane Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:58 pm

Then you pretty much have elevons.
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Post  nemoskull Sun Dec 04, 2011 5:13 pm

well as long as the asymetrical elevators are the same all the time, ou can fly. its just takes a lot of time and the tendancy to manualy mix elevator with right aileron and some rudder on final. dont ask me how i know that Very Happy
that plane flew, but it sucked so bad i redid the elevator not long after.
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