Brought this home from my flying expedition

Rusty:

Save for the yellow, those are Seattle SEAHAWK colors!

Seattle is STILL celebrating the win over the Broncos!   

SD

Get find Rusty. That plane will take you way up the PA ladder.

Nice, great score!

Jim

Nice! That'll save some shop time. What are you gonna power it with?

Yeah, cool huh. Maybe an ARF is the best idea since I've been wanting an Oriental for a while. I'll be more familiar with the innards of a full fuse model whenever I do take on such a project.

Yeller ain't it.   The more I look at it, the more I like it. I've already started looking up build, or rather assembly threads, and there is a lot to be done if I want to make it last. I have a couple of .35s and an fp40. The box calls for .35 to .46, so I'm thinking that fp40 will fit nicely. It's behind the nearly complete Yak, the 1/2A speed plane, and the Skyray. Maybe I'll be flying it all Summer and competing with it in October.

Here's another picture from yesterday:

Rusty, thanks for the picture of the signatures. I see Shawn and I in the corner. I met a lot of those who signed the board. The Oriental is my favorite plane. One thing to keep in mind with the Oriental ARF is the fact it uses a 4" bellcrank. If you own a extremely large EZ-Just not the Hot Rock it works better due to the controls being slow because of the 4" bellcrank. The plane was designed for the Fox .35 and any modern engine, the LA needs at least 2.5-3 1/4 oz's of tail weight. The Brodak .40 works extremely well if you could find one. The OS .35 Max-S is another good choice. The covering as Ron mentioned should really be redone as it sheds off in sheets. Ken

How about spending the time on an old school silk and dope finish since it needs to be recovered anyway and so much of the time consuming build has been done?

Jim

Looks like this may as well will be my assembly thread, so I'll rename it when the project gets moving.

I was hoping the covering would have gotten better, but if it comes loose I will definitely personalize the scheme. Ken, I notice you didn't mention the fp40 I was thinking of using. I do have a Max-s 35 as well as an Enya 35 and the fp35 that's on the old beater Skyray now. Do you think I should opt for the one of the 35s over the fp40?

I rooted through my tubing scraps and have some good brass or copper tubes to route my .027 wire through the bellcrank. And I have plenty of copper wrapping wire for that job. I've been reading an ARF Oriental thread over at SH that Ken has posted in. I will be putting a gusset under the stab to brace it, and take care not to cut into balsa wherever I have to remove Monokote. Maybe a hot exacto blade will assist with that job.

BTW, I have an fp25 for the new Skyray, thanks to one of our generous members. I'm way farther along in the game than I would be without you guys. I sure appreciate y'all. I feel like I take more than I give. I try to give what I can.

Rusty, I forgot about your FP.40. I would be for that engine as well. I do know though that the FP can be one that can try your patience. Seeing that you've already run yours and all has been good, I feel you will be fine. I used one in my ARF Oriental with the APC 10.5 x 4.5 prop. I used a ATF (All tubes forward) 4.5 oz uniflow tank running muffler pressure to the uniflow vent.

One thing in particular that needs to be addressed is the gear block on the bottom of the fuse. Install spruce or bass triangular stock on the top side of this block. If you don't, the gear will tear off the bottom of the fuse leaving the gear and that block attached. I fiberglassed the inside of mine as well and provided blind nuts for the aluminum gear. Ken

Duly noted and added to my list, Thanks.
Rusty