Re: "Rattle can" paints?

roddie Thu Oct 26, 2023 7:04 pm

Resurrecting this thread... Shocked

after almost 7 years.. I've done a little bit of rattle-can spray painting since then. After applying various fillers and sanding.. I've used Rust-Oleum grey automotive "primer" over bare-wood on just about all of my paint-jobs.

Add my current TBD-1 build to the model list on the primer's cap. I've always top-coated this primer with acrylic enamel indoor/outdoor rattle-can coatings from both Rust-Oleum and Krylon.

As many of you know... my airplanes haven't had much (if any) flight-time logged.. so the paint has had a LOT of time to "gas-off".. and hence; cure completely.

For the most part; I followed the application directions.. and opted for the "several light coats" each within an hour option.. or else wait the recommended 48 hours cure-time in-between.

My finishes haven't been exposed to glow fuel for several seasons which isn't the norm I realize.. but I think that they'll be more resistant now, than if they had glow-fuel exposure within a few weeks of having a final coat.

We may find that it's better to let an acrylic enamel rattle-can finish cure for an extended period... before exposing it to model fuel.

balogh Fri Oct 27, 2023 12:46 am

Roddie, I am not sure if acrylic paints resist glow fuel. I use polyurethane based paints that are known to resist..they are used to paint the body of model cars powered by glow engines.

I suggest you do a smear test on the painted surface with a piece of rag damped in fresh fuel, before you start the engine.

rdw777 Fri Oct 27, 2023 2:42 pm

Roddie, I agree with you that a long time for the finish to gas off will give a better chance than if it was still fresh…. Too find out for sure maybe make up a test piece similar to how you coat your planes, Let it age as you think appropriate, Then subject it to fuel and the hot exhaust on your engine test stand…. The only thing I can add from experience is from the Zoomslot Saucer I recently made…. Gold Rustoleum over silver tissue, Top coated with a couple of thin, wiped on coats of spar varnish,…. In general holding up OK… Except for right behind the engine pod where the varnish and paint are letting go somewhat…. I think it was exhaust heat more than chemistry…The finish was aged about a week before flying…. Might have stayed better if I would have waited longer

rsv1cox Fri Oct 27, 2023 6:59 pm

How time fly's. I started this thread back in 2016 asking about the practicality of "rattle can" paints stating that all I used was "dope" and doubting the use of rattle cans.

Now, all I use are rattle can paints. The only paints that I have found to be "fuel proof" are the two part epoxy's. Hobby Poxy for one. I used it on two planes which I still have and the finishes are as good as new despite many flights.

roddie Sat Oct 28, 2023 3:06 pm

I'm counting on it being fairly fuel resistant through hearsay. I have also been using "clear-gloss" for topcoat.. and/or around the firewall/nose. It's solvent-based.. and solvent is required for clean-up.

That's all that I've been using.. in one form or the other on my last 6 builds. I haven't flown any of them yet. My Rare Bear was a test-bed for Top-Flite's "Lustre-Kote" 7501 Crystal Clear Gloss. I fogged the whole model two or three times.. and it has had a little fuel exposure from two separate sessions; neither of which resulted in getting airborne.

The base color is Rust-Oleum "Satin White" enamel and the gold trim color is Rust-Oleum metallic "Gold Rush". Neither of them have enamel appearing on the label. I used a plastic primer (again; Rust-Oleum) under the Gold Rush paint on the cowling.

Note below; a current image of the Rare Bear that shows how the Lustre-Kote not only yellowed.. but broke-down behind the cowling on the outboard side.

Granted.. the cowling does concentrate the hot exhaust right at that area on the topside of the wing. The rest of the model's finish is intact.

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"Rattle can" paints?