Tee dee .010 stop when I unplug supply :-(

Ok I try to run with 30% nitro

1961 Model Aircraft magazine engine test used Record Super Nitrex 30% nitro fuel to power it. It has an interesting note on how they were able to get the engine started.

sceptreflight.com Model Engine Tests/Cox Tee Dee 010 (2)

H.R. Warring in the October 1961 (Aeromodeller?) obtained 27,000 RPM with the stock 3x1.25 prop. He states an absolute minimum 10% nitro fuel to get it to run, but did his test on 30% nitro Super Nitrex fuel. He also had an interesting starting method for it.

sceptreflight.com Model Engine Tests/Cox Tee Dee 010 (1)

Good thing is glow heads are still available for it. If doesn't run with 30% nitro, could be head needs replaced.

I never has problems running with 10% nitro

jmcalata wrote:I never has problems running with 10% nitro

If you have successfully run 10% in this engine previously, you may have some type of contaminate in the fuel that has coated the glow plug element preventing the necessary catalytic reaction between the alcohol and the element.

I would suggest NOT trying additional plugs with that same fuel. If the higher nitro does not help, perhaps new fuel is worth a try.

George

Como estás José?, te comento, creo que se lo que tiene tu motor, es un exceso de residuos en el filamento de la bujía, esto es posiblemente al tipo de mezcla que estas usando.
Te recomiendo que prepares unos 100 cc de combustible al 25%de nitro con un 18% de castor (ricino) resto metanol y entonces:
Carga un tanque de 30 cc y dale marcha con el clip de la bujia conectado afinalo a las máximas rpm y así déjalo funcionar CON EL CLIP CONECTADO hasta consumir los 30 cc, repetí la operación hasta gastar los 100 cc de combustible, eso es margen suficiente para que el filamento vuelva a recuperarse y liberarse de residuos. Si el motor luego de esto no funciona correctamente, se debe a que la bujía ya esta desgastada, es decir que el filamento ya no conserva su estado original, hora de cambiar la bujía.

How are you José? I tell you, I think I know what your engine has, it's an excess of residue on the spark plug filament, this is possibly the type of mixture you're using.
I recommend that you prepare about 100 cc of 25% nitro fuel with 18% castor (castor) residue methanol and then:
Charge a 30 cc tank and drive with the spark plug clip connected to the maximum rpm and let it work WITH THE CLIP CONNECTED until the 30 cc is used, I repeated the operation until the 100 cc of fuel is spent, that is enough margin So that the filament recovers and releases itself from waste. If the motor does not work properly, it is because the spark plug is already worn, meaning that the filament is no longer in its original state when the spark plug is changed.

When a plug goes bad (but still has an intact filament) the engine will not run without power to the glow plug.
An engine that is set too rich will have a similar behaviour though. So if a new plug didn't change anything I would guess that it is running too rich.

Many thanks George, Mauricio and Kris, I run lean and also stop when unplug

I have tested three used plugs ... I must test a new glow plug.

 I agree, the first thing I will do is mix new fuel with more nitro about 25 %

Maybe fuel was contaminated and coated filament and iridium can not catalize methanol.

I in the old spark plugs Champions, I clean the electrode with carbon tetrachloride with a soft brush.

It is posible in glow electrodes???

Thank you very much COX friends
JMCalata

Hi guys, sorry fot the delay, yesterday finallly run the small    Tee dee .010 with new fuel with 33% nitro and oh la la ... solved the problem, after two tanks at max rpm ... glow filament is resurrected.  



Thanks for your corrects diagnoses    ... exactly my fuel should be contaminated in addition to having only 10% nitro.

I have a 2,3 Mb video archive but I don´t know how upload here in the forum?

Hi Jose! I'm happy to know that your little engine stays running without the battery! I think it likes the taste of "HOT salsa" rather than mild..

Well there José, I'm glad to know that everything works as it should be!

Bién ahí José, me alegra saber que ya todo funciona como debe ser!

Good to hear from you my friend , and that the little TD is up and running again . Sounds Good !!

Oh Eric my best American friend, I'm Happy to read you !
You are present with all my Photos at my garage



Thanks to all
Best regards from the sunny Spain.
Jose

Mauricio estoy haciendo un Miss América para motor Brown .60

jmcalata wrote:Oh Eric my best American friend, I'm Happy to read you !
You are present with all my Photos at my garage

I like the printed (paper) photos Jose'! I save many digital photos from CEF on my computer.. and I should "print" some of them.

I also have that photo of Eric..   it's one of my favorites!

Brings back some very fond memories of my early Cox engines.

I had one of the first model TD .010 engines, plus some spare parts that were available at the time. Engines came in plastic bubble packs, and all the plastic parts were red.

The original US magazine articles mentioned 32,000 rpm on the standard Cox (included) props, but I don't know of any affordable tachometers that were available at that time to verify such a high rpm.

I only ran mine a couple of times to show friends that one could hold the engine between their fingers while running, for as long as there was still feeling in those fingers!

I still have one of the last models made by Cox (black case instead of red like the originals), and it's still NIB. My understanding is that the later versions produced only 27,000 rpm with the factory prop.

Unfortunately, I gave my early TD .010 engine and spare parts to a good friend, who was flying competitive FF at the time. He transferred out of state shortly thereafter, and we lost touch.

Sure wish I'd kept one of those originals NIB, as they have gone up in price a bit since then.

Bill