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Roddie scores some glow engines! - Page 2 Babe_b10
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Post  getback on Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:38 am

NEW222 wrote:Thanks for the input and thoughts. I guess I'll look for a hardened socket head screw in my travels. Where may I ask you found your screw? Thanks
I got mine locally but about any nut and bolt place should have some they are also good prop screws much easier to work with .
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Post  rsv1cox on Thu Jan 10, 2019 12:03 pm

getback wrote:Damn i was all set back with my coffee waiting on a tear down and you let it go at a (( got em loosened up ))) ? I got a dollar that says there is castor build up in those / if not after run oiling of who knows what ,,, You know this will slow down the Rs and can bee much harder to start . Babe Bee .049  OK each there own , i got a bunch i need to get started on !! After you get all the stuff out its not that much trouble to do 5-6 in a afternoon Very Happy

I thought the same thing Eric, but knowing roddie I figured that he just didn't mention cleaning the reed etc.  The engines in the picture look rather clean.  

I always clean the reed and it's area.  I have found them so castor locked that it took extreme measures to clean them up.  But it could be that new fuel introduced to the reed would loosen it to operating condition without doing any maintenance.  

The one pictured below wasn't to bad, but you can see where green grime existed at each reed point and it would not rotate.  After cleaning it rotated fine.  Did something different on this one.  When I had it chucked up in the drill press to polish the case I used some fine steel wool on the reeds recess.  Did a great job of cleaning it up.

My jury is still out on the necessity to clean the relief in the crank shaft on an otherwise clean engine.  Can you do more damage by removing the drive washer and extracting the crank......Now I just use hot Simple green and rotate the crank until my fingers hurt.  Smile then rinse in hot water and flood with Remoil.  Seems to do the job.

Roddie scores some glow engines! - Page 2 Cox_me78

Roddie scores some glow engines! - Page 2 Cox_me77
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Post  getback on Thu Jan 10, 2019 3:46 pm

Nice work on the tank , only one way to find out )do your thing and then take apart and look at it ) on a bad one of course ! I got one these coming so i can simple green some in the house or at least back porch .. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Washing-Machine-Ultrasound-Ring-Watch-Glasses-Sterilize-Ultrasonic-Cleaners-USA/153187921846?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 hope it worth the 26- anyway !? Babe Bee .049
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Post  NEW222 on Thu Jan 10, 2019 6:10 pm

As silly as it may sound, do I ask for a hardened screw? I think I can possibly get a socket head cap screw (allen key style head) at a place locally, just that it is in teh other end of teh city and they have a minimum purchase amount of hardware now, but if I am there, I will pick a couple up then and swap out what I am currently using for prop screws.
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Post  roddie on Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:50 pm

getback wrote:Damn i was all set back with my coffee waiting on a tear down and you let it go at a (( got em loosened up ))) ? I got a dollar that says there is castor build up in those / if not after run oiling of who knows what ,,, You know this will slow down the Rs and can bee much harder to start . Babe Bee .049  OK each there own , i got a bunch i need to get started on !! After you get all the stuff out its not that much trouble to do 5-6 in a afternoon Very Happy

Yo, "Bro from another Mo.." Laughing I probably should tear them all down.. and clean-out all that castor-goo before committing any of them to a model. Being that these engines all had unknown history.. I wanted to see if they would free-up with a little heat.. and get an idea of how healthy they were; regarding compression. The ones with glow-heads installed "all" seem to have terriffic compression.

I plan on extracting the fine-thread NVA's (as well as the case-screws..) from the two postage-stamp backplates. The Fine-thread NVA's will surely come-in handy at some point. Actually..... Huh... I might swap them into the horseshoe-backplates of the engines planned for my P-38.. to allow finer tuning-resolution for the twins.
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Post  getback on Fri Jan 11, 2019 9:01 am

NEW222 wrote:As silly as it may sound, do I ask for a hardened screw? I think I can possibly get a socket head cap screw (allen key style head) at a place locally, just that it is in teh other end of teh city and they have a minimum purchase amount of hardware now, but if I am there, I will pick a couple up then and swap out what I am currently using for prop screws.
 Yes as the chart at least a 8 grade will do but not usually made in low grade they are out there , most time black is the color .. Roddie scores some glow engines! - Page 2 Shcs_m10 Just dont get them at wal-mart LOL
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Post  getback on Fri Jan 11, 2019 9:03 am

Yo, "Bro from another Mo.." Laughing wrote:
Yo Bro what up !! we just checking on you to make sure ur not going for trouble down the road Laughing Let us see when U get them opened up i am curious . This Site Rocks!
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Post  SteveM on Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:47 am

roddie wrote:It's been over a year.. but today I decided to give those consigned Cox engines that I scored, some attention. None of them would turn-over.. but I was hoping that they were merely just castor-locked from not being treated to a little after-run oil before being put away.. which is sOoOo often the case with "stuck-engines".

I prepared my work-space by getting out my heat-gun.. and securing a place to hang it nearby to my bench-vice; allowing it to cool-down between uses. I dug-up an old glove for handling a "heated/hot-engine" and also made a "wall" for behind my bench-vise.. to protect the area behind it from excess heat.

I needed a means to rotate the engines' crankshafts after applying the heat, to see if they'd loosened-up.. so I chose a PVC flywheel that I'd made. A propeller would work equally as well though.

One at a time; my engines were placed on my vises' anvil.. with their cylinders facing the heat. It only took half a minute on my heat guns' "LOW-SETTING".. to free-up all six engines. A few drops of light-oil "worked-in".. will keep them on "stand-by status".. until I'm ready to configure them for models!

Please explain this flywheel, I would like to make one for myself.

Roddie scores some glow engines! - Page 2 Hog_he10
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Post  roddie on Sat Feb 09, 2019 8:06 pm

SteveM wrote:
Please explain this flywheel, I would like to make one for myself.

Roddie scores some glow engines! - Page 2 Hog_he10

Geez.. Shocked I'm sorry Steve. I usually reply promptly to inquiries. The flywheel shown was made on a CNC router from 1/2" (.500") thickness PVC sheet commonly used in the sign-making industry.

The OD measures 1.375" diameter
The ID measures 1.125" diameter
The bore-depth is .400"
The center-hole is .125" diameter

It's important that the flywheel balances. Turning a flywheel on a "lathe" or CNC machine will ensure this. The .125" diameter center-hole is the correct size to accept the #5-40 machine-screw which fits the Cox .049/.051 engines' crankshaft.
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Post  SteveM on Sun Feb 10, 2019 11:23 am

roddie wrote:
SteveM wrote:
Please explain this flywheel, I would like to make one for myself.

Roddie scores some glow engines! - Page 2 Hog_he10

Geez.. Shocked  I'm sorry Steve. I usually reply promptly to inquiries. The flywheel shown was made on a CNC router from 1/2" (.500") thickness PVC sheet commonly used in the sign-making industry.

The OD measures 1.375" diameter
The ID measures 1.125" diameter
The bore-depth is .400"
The center-hole is .125" diameter

It's important that the flywheel balances. Turning a flywheel on a "lathe" or CNC machine will ensure this. The .125" diameter center-hole is the correct size to accept the #5-40 machine-screw which fits the Cox .049/.051 engines' crankshaft.

Thanks!
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