Evo 40/46 Remote NVA Fits McCoy 35 Red Head

These non muffled engines limit where I can fly at. We do have a designated site which allows for the use of no mufflers. I truly believe the .19 is the loudest of the bunch. In my pics above I have a Enya muffler strapped to my .19. I really have the hole opened up and while it doesn't fit the stack perfectly, it does quiet the engine. These engines don't take to the muffler too well.

I tested a Tatone 09-19 Calumet muffler with the McCoy 19 RH. It ran hot. I ground away all the internal baffling, but it still ran hot. I continued to drill holes into it until I had about a dozen, essentially making it into a "tongue" muffler. That worked, but rendered the muffeling ineffective. I am told many a modeler ruined their engines using these mufflers. They have hardly any chamber size to them.



I took my other one, ground away all internal baffling and mount it on an Enya 09-III. That is the largest engine it ought to work on.



The engine ranges are overstated on their Peacepipe mufflers as well. Their 09-19 works on my Enya 09-III TV.



Their 29-40 works on my Enya 19-VI TV.



Here are the Tatone Peacepipe 09-19 and 29-40 compared side by side.







As you see, their size ranges are overstated. I've got several 45-65's. These Peacepipes have an adequate chamber for the .35's like McCoy RH and Enyas. I wouldn't put it on anything larger than a 40.

I found that a YS muffler tested fine on my Testors 40 Series 21 Black Head without running excessively hot.





IMO, key is having an adequately large enough chamber size to prevent these McCoys from running hot and ruining them. When a gas expands rapidly, it cools. A larger muffler would aid in adiabatic cooling by allowing the gas to expand before being expelled. However most mufflers except for tongue add considerable weight, which is something you don't want in CL, as it limits the choice of models capable of handling the additional weight. Many of the earlier CL models were designed to run with unmuffled engines.

Interesting enough, I pulled the head off this McCoy 35 and put it in an antifreeze solution in an old Poly Perk coffee percolator, along with my other Enya 09-III CL engine for cleaning. After soaking for about 12 hours under its gentle heat, much of the aftermarket paint coat came loose. Some of the OEM red paint could be scraped with a finger nail, but appears to be of stouter stuff.

Lo behold, there was a layer of baked on Castor underneath where the bare metal showed through, no wonder the dirty appearance. Otherwise, engine has good compression and good crankshaft fit. Not everything from E-Bay seems as it should. I used a brass wire brush to carefully remove as much paint and glow crud as I could. I may have to resort to a paint stripper, may be the environmentally friendly stuff as to not harm the aluminum, to remove it all down to the bare metal.

George I really like that NVA as to try and find the original , and keeping your fingers out of harms way . The price is right too, thanks for the report ! I will have to try that anti-freeze out for cleaning sometime sounds like it does a good job. Is that the straight stuff or the cut with half water you buy ? Eric

Thanks, Eric. Stuff to buy is the older style ethylene glycol mix. If already cut 50-50, use as is. If concentrated, mix in 50% water.

I cleaned the head using my old Poly-Perk plastic percolator coffee pot and antifreeze solution. After heating to boil, it goes in the warming mode, not much different than a crock pot. After soaking for about a day and a half, I was able to scrub of the remaining residual paint and congealed Castor off of it with an old toothbrush, then scrubbed it again in soapy water and same toothbrush. This is how it now looks:



I can paint it or leave it in its natural aluminum.

Naked head is now mounted on my engine, gasketed by Permatex Ultra Gray RTV. I hypothesize that this will work as the heat of combustion by methanol is 9,800 BTU/lb. versus petrol at 20,400 BTU/lb.

https://www.thermalfluidscentral.org/encyclopedia/index.php/Heat_of_Combustion

We don't have exhaust parts hot enough to light a cigarette with, as I remember with the automotive engine exhaust manifolds. Now letting the RTV cure for a day or two, before I retest the engine.

I ran it yesterday 4 times, at an ounce at a time. Needle maintains the right setting and the RTV is holding.





Here's what it looks like now that I have it mounted on my 1950 Sterling S-1 Ringmaster. Once I complete a few simple airframe repairs, I'll fly it.

One is good luck, two is a charm. After gasket kits came in from Chellie Romo (AKA verysassyblond) today, I completed my 2nd Testors McCoy .35 Red Head Evo .46 remote NVA mod. Similarly, this 2nd engine I'm leaving head in unpainted bare aluminium for better heat dissipation. Her gasket set restored compression, quality stuff.  

I found that using just RTV doesn't work sealing the cylinder to crankcase joint. I had a McCoy with sub-piston induction (SPI). I don't think Dick McCoy intended this and I wasn't willing to experiment if I had a "high performance" McCoy on my hands. With her gaskets, fit and finish are restored.  

George, your failure was with Permatex Ultra Copper? Ken

George, I would also like to add some further info. While I used Permatex, it was solely for the purpose to increase compression in these engines. While this is not a poke at Chellie's products, I personally like them myself. I have to say this. The gasket material she uses is .034". This while sounding miniscule, your previous gasket was more than likely leaking prior to your Permatex experiment. In light of all of the above, the stock gasket is .018". This is a very LARGE difference. Regardless of choice it works. I'm not a fan of fiber head gaskets and in lieu, I switch to metal. It works better and it doesn't compress over time like the fiber gasket material. So truth be told this not only has an impact on your compression ratio, it also changes your sub induction.

Ken, Shellie's gaskets removed the unwanted sub-piston induction. As far as I know, engine wasn't designed to use that, needs proper cylinder seat to crankcase clearance. Hers appear to be of a more modern gasket material that once crushed adequately, seals well. I believe it crushes down to what the old gaskets were after torquing. I torqued down the head last night, then retorqued it today a day later. She is air tight.

Problem with RTV's is it is nearly impossible to get a precise film thickness. On my other McCoy, I only used RTV for the head seal and Shellie's gasket for the cylinder base. Since this engine I worked on is a runner, I know it will pan out well, has plenty of compression still.

Some time future I may purchase my own gasket material and cut my own. Stuff today is much better than 50 years ago. The graphite impregnated stuff then was good material, but certainly not as good as the stuff now, IMO.

George, the reason I asked was that I found that Ultra Black doesn't suit our needs at all. It instantaneously dissolves. I used the Ultra Copper for a base sealant and to date it's been running quite well. I hope it continues that way. The plane I have it in is very difficult to access and it takes nearly an hour to get the engine out. While my fingers are crossed, I see no need so far to have a problem with how I used it. I know of many that also used this as a head gasket material. I prefer good old shim stock to do the job. It appears she is using Fel-Pro gasket Ken

Ken, I'm using Permatex Ultra Gray RTV, not Black. It is used for auto transmission cases, good for locations where a lot of flex is not expected, etc. I've used it for my Briggs and Stratton lawnmower case halves, motorcycle head covers and engine side covers, model engine crankcase back and front plates, heads, and etc. So far it has worked for me. It has the ability to seal even when spread thin, is fuel, oil and water proof.

After installing Shellie's gaskets last night, I retweaked all bolts today then mounted the Testors McCoy .35 Red Head with APC 9x6 prop in my engine test stand. After the first run, I loosened the leaking glow plug and re-centred the copper glow plug gasket and re-tightened. That fixed the leak. After a total of 8 runs on a 1-oz tank, Shellie's gaskets held.





The engine is most happy at 4 cycle barely breaking into 2 at 1-1/2 needle turns of the Evo .46 remote needle open.



She ran with the reasonably "new" (actually NOS) Swanson Associates Fireball Hot Plug. It worked, but then decided to try another for the last couple runs, and I was glad I did. I purchased from E-Bay a card of 10 HSP Taiwan N3 Hot Glow Plugs. These were recommended for 4-cycle engines. I tried one in the McCoy and she is really happy with it, fired right up, easy starting, engine really sang with it. I bought these for $28 shipping included. Talk about quality, the copper gasket is cut with a more precise hole in the middle wihout much slop, doesn't require centering as it is already reasonably centered when install.



These N3 plugs should do me a lot of good in my legacy OS Max, McCoy, Fox, and Enya cross scavenged engines. (Note, photo has my Fireball Hot glow plug temporarily placed in the lower left bubble.)

This 2nd McCoy engine for now is a good backup for the first.

Rod, I've seen other makes of No. 3 N-3 plugs advertise them especially for 4 cycle glow engines, so I don't think this is a typo. I don't own a 4 cycle glow engine and thus for me all is academic, but with glow catalyst ignition occurring every other crankshaft revolution would need a hot plug due to the delay between glow ignitions.

In the case of these older engines running more oil would require a hot plug too due to the cooling action of the extra oil or so I gather.

Regardless, I tried them and I am sold, as a hot plug they performed well and as expensive as glow plugs are now, for me the price was right.

Ken Cook wrote:                 George, I would also like to add some further info. While I used Permatex, it was solely for the purpose to increase compression in these engines. While this is not a poke at Chellie's products, I personally like them myself. I have to say this. The gasket material she uses is .034". This while sounding miniscule, your previous gasket was more than likely leaking prior to your Permatex experiment. In light of all of the above, the stock gasket is .018". This is a very LARGE difference. Regardless of choice it works. I'm not a fan of fiber head gaskets and in lieu, I switch to metal. It works better and it doesn't compress over time like the fiber gasket material. So truth be told this not only has an impact on your compression ratio, it also changes your sub induction.

It Does my Heart Good to see All those McCoy 19 to 40 size Engines being Restored and Running The Crankcase to Cyl Gasket Material I use is a Compression Gasket Material, and will Squish down 13 to 25% to approx .025" so its not to far from the original gasket material thickness, and works very well, the gasket material is called MP15 and is the best gasket material around IMHO, its used on Heavy Duty Industrial Equipment where other gasket materials have failed, I also use the same MP15 Gasket Material for the head gasket, and never ever had a failure, I have found that using a Hot glow plug with a idle bar, makes the McCoy engines run very smooth with easy Starting, even after removing the glow plug battery,the Engine does not bog down.
Thank you Everyone For your kind words about my Gaskets Take care and have Fun, Chellie

Description:
MP-15 gasket material is design for heavy-duty applications including compressors, diesel engines, and others. It has excellent low flange pressure sealability and bolt torque retention. It is intended for applications with short duration maximum temperatures up to 205oC (400oF).
Property: Specification: Method:
Density, g/cc(lb/cu.ft) 1.54 (96) (min.) ASTM F 1315
Compressibility, % (at 34.5MPa) 13 - 25 ASTM F 36
Recovery, % 50 (min.) ASTM F 36
Tensile Strength, AMD, MPa(psi) 10.34 (1500) (min.) ASTM F 152
Binder Type Polychloroprene

WELLCOME TO THE FORUM  CHELLIE!! it is good to have a go to place to get gaskets for these antiques to keep them going , Thank You , Eric

CHELLIE wrote:It Does my Heart Good to see All those McCoy 19 to 40 size Engines being Restored and Running

Amen! Chellie, welcome to the forum!

The Crankcase to Cyl Gasket Material I use is a Compression Gasket Material, and will Squish down 13 to 25% to approx .025" so its not to far from the original gasket material thickness, and works very well, the gasket material is called MP15 and is the best gasket material around IMHO, its used on Heavy Duty Industrial Equipment where other gasket materials have failed, I also use the same MP15 Gasket Material for the head gasket, and never ever had a failure,

Chellie, I saw the modern looking material and figured that must be the case, excellent! I don't have a tach, but your gaskets have done a wonderful job of sealing and my 2nd McCoy 35 RH runs perfectly with your gaskets.

I have found that using a Hot glow plug with a idle bar, makes the McCoy engines run very smooth with easy Starting, even after removing the glow plug battery,the Engine does not bog down.

So far I've found my legacy Swanson Associates Red Hot standard plug and these new HSP plugs work well, but I also have some SA medium idle bar plugs too. If I run into problems with an engine will give them a shot too. I've found the Swansons will run well when new, but when aged will do as you say, requiring replacement. Their platinum coating doesn't seem to hold up well over time. OTOH I have an old Enya #30 plug and it still fires and runs well.

Thank you Everyone For your kind words about my Gaskets  Take care and have Fun, Chellie

Again, welcome to the forum, Chellie, and we look forward to any advise you have on keeping these McCoys running. In another forum, one modeler was asking who rebuilds McCoys, as his friend's was sufficiently worn to lack compression. Do you also rebuild McCoys?

Oldenginerod wrote:Hey Chellie, welcome.  I still have 2 of your McCoy overhaul kits sitting there waiting for me to get enthusiastic enough to strip my engines.  Both engines are running ok so I haven't bothered.
There's plenty of chat here about other makes and sizes between the Cox discussions, so you should fit right in.

Rod. (from down under).

Hi Rod, Eric and Galloping Ghostler    Thank You for the Warm Welcome  I am no longer Overhauling Engines, just doing the Kits, I am selling a lot of my McCoy engines on EBay right now,  If anyone Needs a Needle Valve for the McCoy 19 to 40 Engines, the ENYA Needle Valves are a direct replacement for The McCoy Engines, they are sold on EBay

Thank My Father For Getting Me Started with CL when I was about 12 Years old, I started with a Cox PT-19 Then a P-40 cox Plane with a 049 engine, the screaming engine scared the heck out of me but i went for it    That was so much Fun, I never left Model Aviation, I am also involved in RC E Power Planes. I have been Involved in Model Aviation for over 48 Years, But I still Look 29    Ok Would you Believe 30  

Take Care Everyone and Have Fun    I Love My Miller Lite Beer    Going out to the Bar/Night Club tonight to have a few Beers and Kick up my Heels  




Do a Ebay search, I was not able to leave a link right now, got to Wait 7 days

ENYA .15-.19 & McCOY .19-.40 NV ASSY C/L NIP. PART # 15220 .

roddie wrote:

Ken Cook wrote:
The bottom line to all of this and I apologize for the topic straying off is that it becomes easier to just buy another engine . These engines as I mentioned are EVERYWHERE. There's nothing fancy about them and another example can be had for less than $20. I pass up freebies all the time. I have no time for an engine that's going to waste my fly time at the field. I go to fly not to putz around all day and pour oil in a engine to get it to run. That's absolutely pointless to me. Roddie, if your not comfortable tackling this engine and you would like someone to evaluate what you have, I'd be more than happy to look at the engine for you. Ken

Hi Ken, I very much appreciate the offer.. and thank you, but as I stated; I'm in no hurry to run this .19RH and through reading all these very useful comments here, along with some PM's I've saved from you regarding both; my .19 and .35 McCoy engines.. I should be able to determine whether or not I've got an engine that's worth moving forward with restoring to running condition.  

I just removed the back-plate screws with a good fitting Phillips-bit (none of the screws were very tight.. just barely snugged) to have a peak at the bottom-end. The gasket is in surprisingly good shape.. but isn't there a Nylon spacer-pin supposed to be there? The engine doesn't appear to have been run without it.. as the back-plate's inner-face has no wear-marks.



The piston moves freely.. and with the head off; while rotating the crank.. I can feel a slight resistant suction with the piston and hear a resulting "pop" through it's stroke. There is no detectable play in the rod.. and no visible cylinder scoring from the wrist-pin. These would seem to be good indicators that this engine has some life left in it.

A Few Tips I have learned on Restoring the 19 to 40 Red/Blue Head McCoy Engines

Post  CHELLIE Today at 4:23 am
Hi Everyone Smile I just wanted to pass on a few tips I have learned on working with the McCoy Engines,

1. The head has a recess where the head gasket goes, remove the gasket from the head with a T Pin or sharp instrument.
2. Use Bright Red VHT Paint for the Head, it wont discolor. Do a EBay search, VHT Paint High-Temperature Engine Enamel Gloss Bright Red 11 oz Spray
3. Use a Dremel tool with a Stainless steel wire brush to polish the engine case with, it will also clean heavy deposits off the cyl.
4. to resize the Crankcase bushing / case use a 7/16" - 20 Tap, this wont remove any metal, but it will knurl the bushing back to its original size.
5. Polish the Piston and inside the Cylinder with 1000 grit sand paper, wet/dry, if the cyl has a scratch in it, sand the scratch with 1000 sand paper to remove the metal that has lifted up along the scratch mark, dont try to remove the scratch, the lifted up metal will prevent good compression from happening, it causes the piston to be held away from the cylinder. one big cause of poor compression on the McCoy engines.
6. to expand the piston, remove the piston from the rod, lay the piston on a flat piece of solid metal, lay the cylinder over the piston, top side up on the piston and cylinder, tap the top of the piston with a brass 1/4" punch, not to hard, dont tap on the piston divider, but just keep tapping and checking the piston fit, the 19 and 29 engines may need to have the piston heated up with a propane torch to soften them up a little to expand easier, if the piston fit is a tad to tight, use some tooth paste and oil and lap the piston in, replace the rod on the piston, hold the cylinder with a leather glove, use a Philip screw driver in the rod end to hold onto the piston while lapping in, lap the piston untill it takes a little force to push the piston out of the top of the cylinder, remove all debris from the cylinder so its smooth inside. you will notice a 3/16" shiny band on top of the piston after it has been resized and broken in, thats your new sealing surface Smile an expanded piston will normally last for 2 flying seasons, then it will have to be resized again. The Reason this works, is because the top of the piston is Domed, and your compressing the Dome back down to expand the piston top,Travel at your own Risk, But it works great for me Smile
7. use a hot glow plug with a idle bar for smooth performance and easy starting.
8. a scotch bright pad works great to clean the inside of the cylinder of gum.
9. I made a cylinder holder that I can push into the cylinder and mount it to a drill press, i use some folded paper to clean inside the the cylinder fins with, and use a small wire brush to clean the outside of the cylinder while spinning it on the drill press.
10. I use the plastic end of a screw driver to tap the head and cylinder to get them apart, be careful not to break any fins on the head.

Hope this info helps to restore your McCoy Engines, Take care, Chellie