S1 R/M ? on build

Ken Cook wrote:I personally use 3/32"/ .093" . Reason being is that I mainly use Sig Nylon Bellcranks or Brodak's versions, The holes in these are very close to this size only needing some mild  chamfering to allow for a proper fit. In addition, I use Dubro solder couplings on the control horn side which are designed for 4-40 clevises. Don't use 2-56 clevises if that's something you use. Of course, there's no need for clevises and a hard bend can also be used. This something I do equally. It takes a bit more time to perfect due to being very accurate. A 3/32" rod by itself is going to bow and a fairlead must be used to stiffen the rod. I use the loop of a safety pin to do this. I slide it on the pushrod and when I find it's proper location, I push it into the fuse. I rough the ends and place some epoxy into the holes that I made upon installation to retain it. The elevator of the Ring is quite large therefore the horn by itself is not enough strength and will either crack the elevator or pull out of the elevator. You need to make a small pad to under the horn top and bottom which I do using 1/64" ply to give the horn a bit more footprint and prevent the above. The wood control horn used on the early Ringmaster's is very poor and will fail usually without warning.

Ken Cook wrote:         Keep an eye on that wood control horn, that can fail due to breaking or the glue joint failing. I've seen that more than once. I do understand that's how the original was built.

Ken Cook wrote:     What engine?

Cribbs74 wrote:The conclusion you have come to is a wise one. The internal spar aka “rib ripper” should be avoided. What you propose will work fine, but in all actuality it’s not really needed at all. The leading edge is the strength in that wing.

Some other tips:

Use the inner hole on the 3” bellcrank. Less is more with that big elevator.

Glass over the leading and trailing edge splits with epoxy soaked cloth or any strong thin material.

1/16” ply is all that is needed for the doubler.  25-32oz and it will manouver well.

Have Fun!

Ron

oldguy wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:The conclusion you have come to is a wise one. The internal spar aka “rib ripper” should be avoided. What you propose will work fine, but in all actuality it’s not really needed at all. The leading edge is the strength in that wing.

Some other tips:

Use the inner hole on the 3” bellcrank. Less is more with that big elevator.

Glass over the leading and trailing edge splits with epoxy soaked cloth or any strong thin material.

1/16” ply is all that is needed for the doubler.  25-32oz and it will manouver well.

Have Fun!

Ron

I sure hope that weight spec is without the engine.   Because she is on the heavy side.  It's the first time I have used  ultracote, it is pretty heavy stuff.  Will see how it flys, my first real .35 size plane. It will be a learning build/ fly experience.

Cribbs74 wrote:

oldguy wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:The conclusion you have come to is a wise one. The internal spar aka “rib ripper” should be avoided. What you propose will work fine, but in all actuality it’s not really needed at all. The leading edge is the strength in that wing.

Some other tips:

Use the inner hole on the 3” bellcrank. Less is more with that big elevator.

Glass over the leading and trailing edge splits with epoxy soaked cloth or any strong thin material.

1/16” ply is all that is needed for the doubler.  25-32oz and it will manouver well.

Have Fun!

Ron

I sure hope that weight spec is without the engine.   Because she is on the heavy side.  It's the first time I have used  ultracote, it is pretty heavy stuff.  Will see how it flys, my first real .35 size plane. It will be a learning build/ fly experience.

No that’s with engine. I doubt the ultracote added that much weight. It’s lighter than monokote. What type of glue did you use? My Ringmaster is from an original kit and with age, repairs etc. weighs in at 38oz. It gets a little sluggish in the overheads, but is still flyable.

Ron

oldguy wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:

oldguy wrote:

Cribbs74 wrote:The conclusion you have come to is a wise one. The internal spar aka “rib ripper” should be avoided. What you propose will work fine, but in all actuality it’s not really needed at all. The leading edge is the strength in that wing.

Some other tips:

Use the inner hole on the 3” bellcrank. Less is more with that big elevator.

Glass over the leading and trailing edge splits with epoxy soaked cloth or any strong thin material.

1/16” ply is all that is needed for the doubler.  25-32oz and it will manouver well.

Have Fun!

Ron

I sure hope that weight spec is without the engine.   Because she is on the heavy side.  It's the first time I have used  ultracote, it is pretty heavy stuff.  Will see how it flys, my first real .35 size plane. It will be a learning build/ fly experience.

No that’s with engine. I doubt the ultracote added that much weight. It’s lighter than monokote. What type of glue did you use? My Ringmaster is from an original kit and with age, repairs etc. weighs in at 38oz. It gets a little sluggish in the overheads, but is still flyable.

Ron

Used ca and epoxy on the doublers and wing.

Cribbs74 wrote:Well, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Just fly and see what happens. Not sure where you are at in flying skill level, but it will certainly fly in circles.