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New r / c model airplane project for Cox! Empty New r / c model airplane project for Cox!

Post  MauricioB Sat Dec 11, 2021 11:12 am

Well friends, once again we started another project for Cox!
This time it will be possible to use many Cox models between .049 and .051 given the flight characteristics of this model aircraft.
The chosen model aircraft is called SCAMP and I modify the original size of the plane, taking it to 86 cm wingspan = 33.8583 inches.
Also modify the incidence of the wing, since it was very positive and I gave it the angle of attack to my personal taste.
Another modification will be the original dihedral, since this model from the plane does not have ailerons.
As I mentioned before, measure the dihedral because I will incorporate ailerons.
The structure will be modified as it sees fit, such is the case of the F1, which in the way it is manufactured, allows the nose gear to be positioned with its steering movement, without this mechanism interfering with the fuel supply line of the motor.
The original model aircraft has a fixed nose train and in my case, I will place its address.
Well, this is the beginning, here we go !!!, I hope you enjoy this new post!
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I have modified my Cox Golden Bee, putting a Surestar back plate on it, in order to fit a tank with more capacity, for longer flights.
Here you can see how the engine, fuel line and steering control unit looks!...
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frame F2, adjusts to fit a fuel tank...
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The Cox Golden Bee has already been tested with the Surestar board and it works wonders!...
The three-bladed propeller that you see in the photo is a gift from my dear friend Roberto (who unfortunately lost his life due to COVID). It is a large propeller for the engine (6 x 4) clockwise rotation, but it works wonderfully, so I may also use it for some flights!
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and here with an MA 6x3 two-bladed propeller...
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to be continue!..... Small Cox Logo












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Post  MauricioB Sun Dec 12, 2021 7:28 pm

Today Sunday I stayed at home and made the most of the time to advance in this little outfit.

Here you can see the progress and assembly of the fuselage ...
I made different holes in the F1 to be able to accommodate any type of Cox engine, for example, Babe Bee, QRC, Golden Bee, Black Widow, Tee Dee, Medallion, etc.
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the base for the main train ...
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And here there is a problem, when the Du-Bro front end is bent, it breaks, so I took another and the same thing happened again, I wonder if I am doing something wrong ... well, I warmed it up on the second train. sector to bend and still broke, so I decided to make a definitive solution.
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I took an old can opener and cut a piece of round iron.
I drilled crosswise.
then I turned so I could lighten the wheel.
Solder with tin, leaving everything perfectly squared.
With a tap, I made a thread to place a nut.
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I finally got the nose train to fit the way I like it!...
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to be continue!..... Small Cox Logo






















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Post  balogh Sun Dec 12, 2021 9:51 pm

Very quick and accurate work Mauricio...will you fix the engines with wood screws, or, fpply blind nuts on the backside of the firewall?
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Post  ChaseBanner Mon Dec 13, 2021 12:19 am

@balogh wrote:Very quick and accurate work Mauricio...will you fix the engines with wood screws, or, fpply blind nuts on the backside of the firewall?
im curious as well, no question blind nuts are king, although sometimes # 2 allen(cap) head wood screws are just easier for me but seems even with loc-tite some still vibrate out if not checked on the regular.
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Post  balogh Mon Dec 13, 2021 2:10 am

I also often build my firewalls to accommodate various COX engine options, and always use blind nuts for longevity. Plywood soaks in castor no matter how I seal it, and engine mounts with wood screws eventually surrender to castor...the firewall Mauricio built is thick though, so even wood screws may serve him well.
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Post  getback Mon Dec 13, 2021 6:03 am

Looking Good my Friend , It concerned me that the wire broke when bent So I looked it up and from DU-BRO this guy shows how to bent it without break, I think you were tring to get to much of the 90 degree angle as you can see >> There site https://www.dubro.com/products/steerable-nose-gear


Last edited by getback on Mon Dec 13, 2021 6:04 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : add on)
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Post  ChaseBanner Mon Dec 13, 2021 6:05 am

@balogh wrote:I also often build my firewalls to accommodate various COX engine options, and always use blind nuts for longevity. Plywood soaks in castor no matter how I seal it, and engine mounts with wood screws eventually surrender to castor...the firewall Mauricio built is thick though, so even wood screws may serve him well.
what i have done for castor soaked screw holes that seems to work well is drive a toothpick coated in epoxy in the firewall, let dry and reinstall screw with loc-tite. you would be surprised how many times you can fix a castor stripped mounting hole. bbq skewers work well too for larger holes
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Post  MauricioB Mon Dec 13, 2021 6:48 am

Thank you so much for the comments!.
Here I transmit to you my own technique that I apply to the flame arrestor or F1 to avoid the absorption of fuel - oil and the subsequent deterioration of the perforations.

Let's suppose that the wood that I show here is an F1 with its perforations.
Take the F1 and attach a fine wire to hold it.
In a container with DOPE (50% DOPE 50% thinner), soak the F1 for 24 hours.
Remove the F1 from the container with DOPE and let it air until you notice that the whole piece is really dry.
Sand if necessary to remove excess material.
You can then use the F1 in your model, which will not absorb in a future oil, because its fibers already incorporated the DOPE and it does not have more absorption capacity.
The fixing holes will only be damaged with the repetitive use of removing and placing them, but by placing a few drops of cyanoacrylate, they are perfectly usable again.
Remember, once this procedure is done, the fibers of the wood of F1, NO LONGER have absorption capacity.
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Post  balogh Mon Dec 13, 2021 6:52 am

Indeed good idea, Mauricio.

I guess the dry dope is removed/sanded at the edges of f1 before you glue it into the fuselage? CA glue and dope may not adhere so well as glue and naked wood?
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Post  MauricioB Mon Dec 13, 2021 6:58 am

@balogh wrote:Indeed good idea, Mauricio.

I guess the dry dope is removed/sanded at the edges of f1 before you glue it into the fuselage? CA glue and dope may not adhere so well as glue and naked wood?

DOPE sticks perfectly with Cyanoacrylate, with epoxy resin, but not with carpenter's glue.
(What is the English translation of: glue white carpenter glue ??)
Sand the contacts, they are in order to remove (if necessary) the excesses that may remain after evacuating the submerged part of the DOPE, but certainly, you will observe that once the part is really dry, there are almost no excesses of DOPE.
Remember that it is important to dilute 50% DOPE and 50% Thinner, that is so that it absorbs all the fibers very well. If you use directly thick DOPE, it will not absorb inside the F1. That is an important detail.
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Post  getback Mon Dec 13, 2021 8:38 am

Very Good ! I have always painted mine with full strength dope but will do this from now on Rudolph Yes chase the old tooth picks work wonders for repairs to holes .. Mauricio I hope you took NO offence to the way you repair / formulated the steering gear , I was more wondering why it broke , all the ones i have ever used were already bent (for larger planes) RC Plane
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Post  MauricioB Mon Dec 13, 2021 11:07 am

@getback wrote:Very Good ! I have always painted mine with full strength dope but will do this from now on Rudolph Yes chase the old tooth picks work wonders for repairs to holes ..  Mauricio I hope you took NO offence to the way you repair / formulated the steering gear , I was more wondering why it broke , all the ones i have ever used were already bent (for larger planes) RC Plane

Eric, dear friend! Well, how can I be offended? On the contrary, your contribution is great. I looked closely at the video and see that it leaves a steeper curve.
In my case I do this with two aluminum plates placed in the bench clamp and that aluminum makes the steel wire silk, preventing fatigue and breakage. but in this case, I did not succeed, that is, it seems to be an extremely hard steel wire, so for the next attempt I will do it with the technique of this man that is shown in the video of him, the one that you just shared .
Thank you friend! ... hug for you! Beer Cheers
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Post  fredvon4 Mon Dec 13, 2021 12:35 pm

I never say much just lurk n learn MauricioB......

Ford the watcher


BTW Carpenters glue translates the idea just fine....there are dozens of concoctions here in America we refer to as wood glue, carpenters, glue, TiteBond or another 30 different brand names most are water based and it is true they are a poor glue for non porous surfaces like epoxy or dope impregnated wood

I prefer to pre treat my engine bearers and fire walls, or tank compartments with very thin Butyrate dope (the fuel proof stuff) and later heavy Dope way less thinner or a good coat of 30 min or longer epoxies
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Post  ChaseBanner Tue Dec 14, 2021 12:54 am

ive always just used a 50/50 mix of rubbing alcohol and 30 min epoxy for fuel proofing but MauricioB made a great point bout letting it penetrate the fibers of the wood. guess u can get away with that if ur running a muff directing the spent oil. forgot how much slime the 049's leave behind... love that 2 stroke buzz
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Post  MauricioB Sun Dec 26, 2021 11:26 am

Thank you very much Fred
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Post  MauricioB Sun Dec 26, 2021 11:32 am

and here we go with the preview of this beautiful model...
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New r / c model airplane project for Cox! Sc11


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Post  Levent Suberk Sun Dec 26, 2021 4:33 pm

Very good craftsmanship Very Happy
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Post  MauricioB Tue Dec 28, 2021 9:39 pm

Thanks friend Levent!
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Post  MauricioB Tue Dec 28, 2021 9:51 pm

Ok, so here I show you how I have assembled the aileron servos.
Remember that this model is originally without ailerons, for this reason I modified the angle of attack of the wing, the dihedral and thus I incorporated ailerons that are integral to the wing.
The photos show everything ...
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Post  balogh Wed Dec 29, 2021 1:30 am

Mauricio. Very nice job and details as always.

I noted you had adjusted the wing dihedral because of the use of ailerons...how many degrees of dihedral have you finally left?

Thanks for your advice in advance.
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Post  MauricioB Wed Dec 29, 2021 7:18 am

Thanks friend, here I leave you the data.
The dihedral is 176 degrees, which means raising each marginal edge 8mm per side, I hope you understand.
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Post  balogh Wed Dec 29, 2021 8:28 am

Thanks Mauricio, clear enough.
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Post  getback Wed Dec 29, 2021 9:08 am

That is one strong looking wing even cap strips , Looking Good Mauricio Big hug to you friend! Christmas Tree
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Post  MauricioB Thu Dec 30, 2021 9:44 am

Thanks friend Eric , I want to wish you a beautiful year, I want to meet you and give you a big hug, maybe the SCAMP can be blown up in your backyard ... !!, hahaha RC Plane
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Post  MauricioB Thu Dec 30, 2021 9:50 am

in this way, the model can share different engines.
as I mentioned at the beginning, the idea is to enjoy several engines in action!
Small Cox Logo Small Cox Logo Small Cox Logo
Tee Dee .049/.051
Medallion .049/.051
Babe Bee, Black Widow, Golden Bee .049
Surestar, Killer Bee, etc., etc...

Small Cox Logo Small Cox Logo Small Cox Logo
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