Black Hawk Cyclone + Space Bug = potential

From what I have read, the early Space Bug Juniors (1953) had two reeds in tandum and the later SB Jr's (1955) had a single reed and modern cylinders and glow heads.

http://www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/cox_earlyengines.htm

I would agree, the screen on this one probably was removed or fell off as I have never seen one without it. However later Babe Bees for a time came without them.

I have a lot of aero gloss sanding sealer, but my concern is your's. How would it react to paints vs dopes. Monocoat can get expensive for say three or four rolls of different colors, especially if you don't build alot of models. But I have always found it easy to work with and it holds up well.

I'm thinking I will just use Lowes/Home Depots regular wood sealer followed by rattle can or an air brushed enamal or two part epoxy.

Bob

I agree, my SBJ is an earlier one as well and it has a screen, Nice kit btw i was looking at one of those myself might just grab it now!
@ Getback Have you tried TF LusterKote? It may be a bit pricy but it's a great Rattle can paint. I've been using it for years on just about everything I build and I've sprayed it over doped surfaces before and noticed no ill effects Worth a try. (Bandit)

Just buy it on-line.  I bought a rattle can of clear from a local hobby shop that had lost it's propellant.  Not much demand for it at that level.  I thought it was funny as the price was $6.88 (probably very old stock) vs $7.95 + shipping on-line.  I just ate the expense and tossed it, the LHS's margins are rather slim.

How about colouring your dope? It would probably be lighter. I haven't tried it yet, but I spoke to the tech guy at a local paint company (recently purchased by Rustoleum) and he said that dope can be tinted with regular auto lacquer tinters. I had some mixed up and it seems to mix well and covered nicely on a balsa scrap that I used to stir it with.

Rod.

That is a thought, just add the powder to the clear aero gloss that I already have. I wonder how it would air brush.

But first on a scrap piece of balsa I am going to try using some rattle can primer, several coats built up and sanded between each coat, then finished with one of my many existing colors. I have concerns about added weight and fuel damage but nothing ventured, nothing gained. If it works I may try it on this model.

I started working the fuselage to shape last night after adding the tail extension and the pilot holding top. I used the Testors green tube cement which proved to be adequate but I'm going back to CA and epoxy for the rest of the construction.



I used a little spackling compound to flare out the intersection between the top and the fuse and a little on dented spots. The balsa in this kit is of good quality. I haven't seen any better, in fact the whole kit is exceptional.

It ought be a quick build. I should have it together by the time it took me just to punch out the pieces of my stick built Nieuport 28. Big mess though.

Coming along nicely Bob , Bandit you is right that stuff is pricey , do you use the clear flat or gloss ?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/LustreKote-Spray-Clear-10-oz-TOPR7501-TOP-FLITE-/271890889539?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4df5bb43

getback wrote:Coming along nicely Bob , Bandit you is right that stuff is pricey , do you use the clear flat or gloss ??  http://www.ebay.com/itm/LustreKote-Spray-Clear-10-oz-TOPR7501-TOP-FLITE-/271890889539?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f4df5bb43

Wow, To much Eric..... go here:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=lustercoat

Well I convinced myself after looking at Towers Lustercoat prices. I ordered their filler, clear, blue, red, black, yellow, and white sprays. Guess I'm giving up on my own rattle can stuff. All those shipped to me for a total of $9.99.

Bob

My guess is that you are applying the rattle can paint before the dope has gassed off (dried). If you are going to paint something like Rust-Oleum over the dope you might try Nitrate dope as the base because it dries faster.
For such a small project, a 4oz. jar of Butyrate won't break the bank. You can just brush it on over Nitrate or Butyrate base coats.
IMHO rattle cans are over rated.

George

A Space Bug Junior was my first new engine. Had it on several Scientific planes. As a kid it was a PITA to drill the intake hole in the firewall...and make sure you leave a hole in the bottom of the fuselage so the engine can breathe.

Good luck with it.

George

Thanks George,  I have yet to paint a plane with rattle can paint save a stick built rubber powered Nieuport 17 in camoflage colors over tissue.  Flat Krylon olive drab, brown, and creme.  It didn't turn out too bad.

My latest brushed on aero gloss Nieuport 28 though is a mess.  I have simply lost my touch with a brush, shakey hands mostly the culprit.  Shakey doesn't matter with spray, just distributes the paint better

That's one reason why I chose this "hollow log" Cyclone for the SB Jr.  I just have to remember to ensure a breathe hole is present.

Thanks for the link Bob , had not thought of them although I get promos from them all the time Sounds like some good colors to make some pretty planes