Mosquito, finished

rsv1cox wrote:Decals and fuel lines on.  Controls set, I used Rusty's heat shrink method to secure the lines, unnecessary in this case but I think it looks cool.  

Hey, if you can't be cool, what good ar ya! The shrink tube might help keep them from getting hung up.
You know, just two simple passes through the crimp is the FAA approved method, so I'd say you're good to go. Do a 10g pull test before flying. And be sure and check your lateral CG hanging it from the leadouts. Between now and maiden day, do some dry flying inside the house.

RknRusty wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:Decals and fuel lines on.  Controls set, I used Rusty's heat shrink method to secure the lines, unnecessary in this case but I think it looks cool.  

Hey, if you can't be cool, what good ar ya! The shrink tube might help keep them from getting hung up.
You know, just two simple passes through the crimp is the FAA approved method, so I'd say you're good to go. Do a 10g pull test before flying. And be sure and check your lateral CG hanging it from the leadouts. Between now and maiden day, do some dry flying inside the house.

A coincidence Rusty, I did that yesterday after I took it off the balance pylons.  I hung it by the control lines like you  said and it hung slightly nose-down with the bell-crank in the neutral position which I guess is a good thing.  So thankfully the position of the lead-out guide on the plans was correct while the holes in the nacelles were not.  Good thing I checked that.  

Yup, those lines are not coming loose, but as on any new plane I do a pull test with my fishermans De-lier.  I have probably used it on more planes than fish.

Bob

Oldenginerod wrote:

fredvon4 wrote:

On new site this is the BH Mosquito page for an order

http://blackhawkmodels.com/products/de-havilland-mosquito

Interesting observation- the completed Mosquito in this picture appears to have Gilbert engines attached, although the pictures are not clear.  The port engine appears to have the large Gilbert spring starter, hence identifying it as a Gilbert.  The starboard engine doesn't have a starter from what I can see.  If you only had one heavier engine, wouldn't it make more sense having it outboard?

The new owners kept the copy/media from Mr. Larry Rice's ownership. It is all "recycled," except for presentation. I asked them if they could provide bigger pictures...But they never.answered. Mr Rice, on the other hand, provided some guidance even after the change of ownership.
I would hang the heaviest engine outboard, unless it was significantly bigger/stronger than the lighter engine. Weight to the outside, power to the inside!
I have read that multis run "unbalanced" fine-as long as the imbalance either favors inboard via horsepower, or through really big rudder offset.
And I'll admit up front...My own Mossie is my first twin...So what do I know? Not too much! But I'm having fun experimenting!

My Golden Bee/Blackwidow powered P-38 was a pleasure to fly, not really fun as stunts were out of the question. But powering up those Bee's and sync-ing them was an experience. My first and to date only flyable twin.

I was watching a youtube video where the flyer used a tach to sync his engines.

Bob,
ISTR you mentioned picking up a DPC P-38 in one of the other threads.

Have you started it yet?

rsv1cox wrote:My Golden Bee/Blackwidow powered P-38 was a pleasure to fly, not really fun as stunts were out of the question.  But powering up those Bee's and sync-ing them was an experience.  My first and to date only flyable twin.

I was watching a youtube video where the flyer used a tach to sync his engines.  

944_Jim wrote:Bob,
ISTR you mentioned picking up a DPC P-38 in one of the other threads.

Have you started it yet?

rsv1cox wrote:My Golden Bee/Blackwidow powered P-38 was a pleasure to fly, not really fun as stunts were out of the question.  But powering up those Bee's and sync-ing them was an experience.  My first and to date only flyable twin.

I was watching a youtube video where the flyer used a tach to sync his engines.  

Yes, got it a week ago, but can't make up my mind if or when I want to build it.  If I build another before summer it will be one of these three.



But I still have this one to finish...



and this one to repair......



and I want to fly all of these before I build another.........





[url=https://servimg.com/view/19152833/1601][

Plus many more that are out of sight.  So you see my problem.  Why build another plane when I have all of these already built.

Bob,

I wish I could get out your way and help you fly those things. How close are you to an AF base? Langley AFB?

Anyway, doesn't matter, what use are un-assembled kits?

I feel your pain Robert.. Those are some cool models! Good Lord.. I have some that need attention too. An afternoon's work.. (if that..) would probably repair (or finish....) any one of mine. My unfinished ones eat at me the most.

If I were you........ I'd pick-out one of your models that you're "least-attached" to.. throw an engine on it and fly it tomorrow! Easier said than done.. I know. I'm very attached to everything I've ever built.. or started to build. Chances are; you'll have a blast.. no matter how it turns out!

Cribbs74 wrote:Bob,

I wish I could get out your way and help you fly those things. How close are you to an AF base? Langley AFB?

Anyway, doesn't matter, what use are un-assembled kits?

I have been close to Navy and Air Force Bases all my life Ron, from Pensacola in 1956 waaay before you were born, to MacDill AFB in Tampa as recently as five years ago. But now I'm way out in the sticks with nary a uniform in sight. However there is a Dollar General about seven miles away if you ever work on their systems.

I self-motivated myself with that picture above of the unfinished Corsair. Brought it down to the dining room table, moved the Mosquito and started on it again. The previous owner had it set up for electric power so I had to modify for fuel and bearers. Hard work done now, I just mounted the engine and aileron servos. Now to finish the balsa repairs and sheet the wings.







roddie, just lay those unfinished models out on the dining room table, lot's of room and warm. Stimulates the - go get it's.

Bob

Good Lord you have a plenty of planes there Bob, I can see a lot of FUN for you in 2017!!

With the Mosquito finished I started once again on this Sterling F4U-1 Corsair that's been in the works for a year or two.  But I'm well on the way now with the radio, engine, controls, and fuel tank installed.  





The "clown" canopy still bugs me but it allowed me to dig deep into the balsa block and hide the receiver in there.  Good thing as the available fuselage area is tight. This model was started probably years ago by someone and found at a consignment shop. There were lot's of built-in errors to correct and patching to do.



I have enough sheet balsa to plank the wing but I'm going with insignia blue monokote instead.  Easier, less weight and I will have better access to those aileron servos should one go south. Probably will use spray Lustrekote on the fuselage and tail.  Power is an OS .20, probably minimum for this model, but plenty for the type of flying that I do.

Bob

Looks good Bob, with that engine will be a hot performer.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Looks good Bob, with that engine will be a hot performer.

Thanks George, I was hoping for a dog.  I haven't flown RC since Florida some 12/15 years ago and have probably lost any skill that I had.  Might have to put the Fledgling in the air first.

All done now except for sand/seal/prime/paint and monokote on the wings.





Bob

Bob, that spun aluminum cowl is a real prized beauty. I remember as a child that having such was a selling point of Sterling kits. Then sometime toward the nearing of Sterling's demise, they began substituting those cowls with inferior sheet plastic vacuum moulded ones.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Bob, that spun aluminum cowl is a real prized beauty. I remember as a child that having such was a selling point of Sterling kits. Then sometime toward the nearing of Sterling's demise, they began substituting those cowls with inferior sheet plastic vacuum moulded ones.

That's right George. My dad had built a Sterling Waco Cabin in the 1960's, that had an aluminum cowling. It was beige w/red trim that matched the red-head of the McCoy .19 installed. Fast-forward to the late 1980's; he bought and built a Sterling Mono-coupe that has the plastic cowling.

I wish I had photos of the Waco.. but the Mono-coupe is now in my possession. It needs a little TLC though. It has an OS FP .25 that has never seen a drop of fuel.



I like that Corsair Bob! My brother found an old (1978 vintage) Top-Flite RC kit and picked it up for me a few years ago. Unfortunately.. the cowling is missing from the kit.    It looks to be otherwise complete.. but I'm not sure.




I don't have an engine that's big enough for it.. but maybe it would be a good candidate for a brushless/electric motor?

What does "Spun" aluminum mean, is it cut from a pipe or a billet on a lathe?
Wayne has a huge Super Connie kit with spun aluminum cowls.
Rusty

Rusty, metal spinning is a process where you form a cylindrical piece from a flat disc by not removing material but by forming the metal... Hard to explain but here's a video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L29FMj1GniQ

EDIT: this is an interesting process, and actually one that could be done in a well-equipped home shop. A sturdy wood lathe would be a good tool to first make the plug out of plywood discs or a hard block of wood, and then use the plug to form the aluminum.

I can tell you first hand that spinning aluminum is not easy and it's dangerous. I have made a few cowls myself. You need to start with a hardwood form first. My buddy Dan made a fixture to adapt to the tool rest on the lathe where two handles are used. One handle has a slit in it and while the flat disc is spinning, the slit in the one tool holds the edge which allows you to bend the aluminum while spinning. The second tool is pivoted between to dowels on the fixture which you apply LOTS of pressure to as your folding the aluminum over. The problem is that while it begins to form, it also wrinkles. Eventually the wrinkles tear and the piece explodes. It took a long time to figure out the problems. The main problem is that you have to purchase a non-heat treated aluminum that has no strain. As the aluminum folds, you have to work fast. The material is hardening and if you stop, it doesn't conform to the form on the mandrel but rather causes a speed bump in it. My friend Dan is responsible for making many of the cowls for Walter Umland kits. http://www.builtrightflyright.com/
The Galloping Comedian is one kit he made a lot of cowlings. Ken

I just remembered this picture of me taken just last year and shamefully posted here again.  



Guess I will have to paint 320 on the nose and distress the model a bit to match. I actually started that puppy.

Square that hat sailor.  Norman Oklahoma, July 1956.

Cool photo Bob! Cripes.. I was four years in the making in 56... My dad was pitching for Cleveland Indians AAA league in Daytona back then. I probably ruined that plan...

The first of the spinners for the Mosquito arrived, the plastic ones are now in customs in NY.

These are very nice, light and well made.  But the adapters do not fit the prop shaft on my Enya .09's, worse they do not fit on any of my Enyas.  I asked for 5mm's and didn't get them.





Little matter, I consider them to large for this model anyway.  1 1/4" would be much better but I can only find them for electrics.

Those spun aluminum cowls are really nice and easy to work with.  I had to drill eight holes in the Corsairs cowl, the main one for the cylinder head.  I just drew a circle outline on a pine 2X4 and used a band saw to cut it out then used it to back a hole saw for the cut. Same procedure for the other holes.  





Bob

2nd crop of spinners arrived. At 1.5" still to large for the .09 Enyas and will not fit my OS .20 as the backplate is too thick for the short shaft.  Lower pitch props may fit better. They do fit my .19's and .29's but not well.  Looks like the Mosquito will go spinner less.

Yes, I see that the thicker hub of the vintage Top Flite wide blade props coupled with the thickness of the spinner backplate doesn't give much room for the prop nut to properly thread on the shaft. I suspect a similar problem with the Sterling 36" P-38 profile, too. Photos on the box show it as being spinnerless. Of course on this model, it would be as a spinner nut versus a hub enclosing spinner.