FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan

rsv1cox Mon Jun 19, 2023 4:55 pm

to West Virginia USA. I have had packages float around the various USPS activities in Washington DC for that long.

Another nice touch from FedEx. Found this photo while checking on the tracking number. Delivered to my garage door, they provide a picture.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Fedex10

Nicely packed, not crushed and on time from halfway around the world. Sosam knows.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015543

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015542

Very clean, might have been treated with a preservative, locked up tight, tool marks on the drive washer, missing glow plug replaced with one from burned-out drawer. Tried to get a picture of the head screws. Look smaller than 2/56's - metric equilvalent probably. Tiny thin straight slots. Jeweler's screwdriver only. I don't think I will be able to remove them but going to give it a try. Drive washer will be drill press chucked up and remove the tool marks ..........carefully. Some heat and a little light oil will free the piston.

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Nobody here seems to have much experience with Fuji engines?

balogh Tue Jun 20, 2023 12:51 am

Bob, 5 days from around the world is really a record..my best comparable experience is from Bernie in Western Canada to here Central Europe in 9 days pre-Covid times...nowadays it is more like 2 weeks..

That Fuji engine is very cute, with its Batman wing-like mufflers that may also add a bit to the aerodynamic lift of the plane's wings.. Very Happy

No experience with Fuji engines here but I guess highly precise fit and excellent compression unless abused.

Looking forward to your salvation posts.

Ken Cook Tue Jun 20, 2023 4:37 am

I've owned two newer examples of the Fuji. One was a .15 and the other was a .35. The .15 was a identical example to the Enema .15 3303. The .35 was also similar but slight differences in the case. Both were r/c engines converted to C/L. I wasn't overly impressed with them. Both were ABC examples and I expected a bit more performance out of them vs my older iron piston engines. The .15 went to a roundy round plane which had a three line bellcrank. I put the r/c carb back on. It's been sitting for nearly 20 years now. The piston could probably use some exercise. I might just pull it back out.

rsv1cox Tue Jun 20, 2023 7:39 am

Totally beat yesterday from working in the woods, sore back, sore jaw from tooth extraction, headache. But still, I have a fresh engine to investigate.

Added to this:

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t17366-batwing-fuji-099

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015547

So last night I headed to the basement. Heat gun, MMO. I had to drill out a Cox prop to fit the Fuji's shaft for use as a pull-through. But first I had to get the prop nut off. PO had run the nut up on the unthreaded shaft and would not budge. I had to use toothpicks through the exhaust ports to free. Chewed them up pretty good and left a part of one (perfectly shaped) in the cylinder that I had to blow out with compressed air.

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Heat, MMO in the glow plug hole, exhaust ports and intake got the shaft moving......with effort. More MMO at the interface between the drive washer and case and openings but still a whole lot of drag. Brown goo appearing, this thing is loaded inside with castor and will have to be disassembled. Clean on the outside gummed up on the inside. Delt with this before, and disassembled. But, there is an option if I can't get the head off.

I have had excellent luck before by immersing a warm engine in Berryman's and with the intake and glow plug openings free turning the engine over both CW and CCW many times, then flushing out with hot water and Simple Green, then just hot water until it runs clean. Then blow out with compressed air, heat until dry then oil with RemOil or MMO. Saves taking it apart when they won't come apart as may be the case with this Fuji.

But, the good news is, the fuel tank from the Ok .099 is a perfect fit, I just have to find the proper length screw.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015550

getback Tue Jun 20, 2023 7:53 am

I see you got it and in record time ! I truly hate Jap./Tiwa./ or any other cheap made screws !! Hopefully you can get around taking the head off .. You going to run that baby aren't you ? bounce

sosam117 Tue Jun 20, 2023 8:00 am

Bob,
you'll find out that those screws that look like 2-56 are really M2.3 JIS screws.
Just a hair bigger than the 2-56 screws.

Last year I bid on a group of engines (mostly Enya) that was on the Yahoo (Japan) auction site (as JUNK).
It was a group of Enya .049, Enya .06 / a Enya .08 and one Fuji 1.6cc.
Total was seven Enyas and this one Fuji.

Cost for the "eight" engines were $150.00 (before shipping cost)

The seven Enyas --- JUNK before rebuild:

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan 07_eny11

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan 06_eny13

And the "ONE" Fuji 1.6cc Jr. (I have cleaned and rebuilt)

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Fuju_110

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Fuji_110

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Fuji_111

Learned a lot on that Fuji engine on how to carefully take it apart.
The screwdriver set I used was that German made set Wila Philips screwdrivers that fit those JIS heads perfectly.
I have many screwdriver sets and went thru them all for the best fitting for those screws and clearance to get to them.

And of course, my trusty Heat gun (Pait stripper gun)
Trick part was trying to remove the back plate.
What I did was to find a metric socket head screw that fit the center lug and with that screw and a washer then a jam nut, heat the crank housing until it was hot enough to loosen up.
I made a replacement gasket for the gasket sheet that shtterman (Bob Brooks) sells. I used the thicker gasket material to make a replacement.

I reinstalled the back plate the same way as I took it off, with the socket head screw, flat washer and jam nut.

There was no prop washer or nut when I got the engine, but I did have a prop washer and nut that fits the .09 Enya and I was lucky enough that also fit the Fuji engine.

The Fuji 1.6cc engine cleaned up well but it is missing the original carb.
Originally, I didn't notice the missing carb. I thought it was just missing the needle valve assembly which was no big deal?
Then, doing a little work and searching, found that it should have a carb.

So, if I can't find/get an original one, I'll just fit up an Enya .09 carburetor to it?

As for the shipping from Japan.
Since the worst part of the pandemic is over, shipping from Japan for me takes either 3 to 7 days depending on who is doing the shipping?
I have had DHL for shipping (about 3 days), UPS/FedEx for shipping (about 4~5 days), and Japan Post for shipping (5~7 days)
Japan post is similar to our USPS here in the states.

Best of luck Bob! Thumbs Up

The Fuji is an interesting engine Vs. Enya engines (like buying either a Ford or Chevy -- matter of taste?)

sosam117 Tue Jun 20, 2023 8:11 am

rsv1cox wrote:Totally beat yesterday from working in the woods, sore back, sore jaw from tooth extraction, headache. But still, I have a fresh engine to investigate.

Added to this:
https://www.coxengineforum.com/t17366-batwing-fuji-099

But, the good news is, the fuel tank from the Ok .099 is a perfect fit, I just have to find the proper length screw.

Bob,
I think the threads on that back plate is a M2.6 thread (JIS)
You might have a tough time finding that size (M2.6) bolt/screw, let alone the length on a M2.6 screw?

sosam117 Tue Jun 20, 2023 8:34 am

Bob,
If you didn't have a fuel tank available, I have made one for my McCoy .049 from copper tubing and flat copper sheet.
The 1/2 in copper pipe was left over from a plumbing job and I have copper sheets to make shims and washers for the rebuilds I do.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Mccoy_17

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Mccoy_18

GallopingGhostler Tue Jun 20, 2023 8:41 am

Those twin exhaust Fuji's were nice, reliable engines, but a little weak on power, probably like the McCoy 9 or Fox Rocket .09. Back in the early 1980's, I was building a 33 inch Midwest P-63 profile, mounted one of those, built just needed to cover and finish. Think I got the used Fuji from one of the local hobby shops in town. Back then, the city still had hobby shops, one on the corner of Lakewood Blvd and South Street in northern Long Beach, CA. But, I was staying at the Long Beach Servicemen's Center, and moved away. Don't know what happened to it.

But, felt very fortunate to come across an NOS Midwest 33 inch P-40. The Cox .15 Sportsman will make a good engine for it, sort of reminiscent of the similar sized Cox RTF Commanche of the early 1960's.

I marvel at these early engines, they were good, just that the technology had not progressed yet to provide greater power practically given the machining technology of the day. (Schneurle didn't come about in abundance until the latter 1970's.) Yet, I am simply amazed at what they were able to do. Sometimes think I would have enjoyed being an adult in the 1950's. There was enough modern stuff plus then more people were do-it-yourselvers.

In junior high in the mid 1960's, I enjoyed building broadcast and shortwave radio kits. Read about the Ace R/C kits and dreamed about them. Although I never flew them because I had no one to do it with, built at least a dozen half-A CL kits, mostly Scientifics, combination of hollow log and fuselage built-ups. (Then as a youth, full fuselages were my preference over profile.)

rdw777 Tue Jun 20, 2023 9:30 am

Neat looking engine Bob, Those stacks make it very unique…. Congratulations on the acquisition!!…. I enjoy reading yours and sosam’s methods on working on old stuck engines, Making or adapting parts…. I’ve got a stuck Atwood Wasp that needs attention one of these days…

Robert

sosam117 Tue Jun 20, 2023 11:49 am

GallopingGhostler wrote:Those twin exhaust Fuji's were nice, reliable engines, but a little weak on power, probably like the McCoy 9 or Fox Rocket .09. Back in the early 1980's, I was building a 33 inch Midwest P-63 profile, mounted one of those, built just needed to cover and finish. Think I got the used Fuji from one of the local hobby shops in town. Back then, the city still had hobby shops, one on the corner of Lakewood Blvd and South Street in northern Long Beach, CA. But, I was staying at the Long Beach Servicemen's Center, and moved away. Don't know what happened to it.

But, felt very fortunate to come across an NOS Midwest 33 inch P-40. The Cox .15 Sportsman will make a good engine for it, sort of reminiscent of the similar sized Cox RTF Commanche of the early 1960's.

I marvel at these early engines, they were good, just that the technology had not progressed yet to provide greater power practically given the machining technology of the day. (Schneurle didn't come about in abundance until the latter 1970's.) Yet, I am simply amazed at what they were able to do. Sometimes think I would have enjoyed being an adult in the 1950's. There was enough modern stuff plus then more people were do-it-yourselvers.

In junior high in the mid 1960's, I enjoyed building broadcast and shortwave radio kits. Read about the Ace R/C kits and dreamed about them. Although I never flew them because I had no one to do it with, built at least a dozen half-A CL kits, mostly Scientifics, combination of hollow log and fuselage built-ups. (Then as a youth, full fuselages were my preference over profile.)

I'm glad I was born at the right time.
Near the end of the baby boomers (Sept. 1958)
Growing up in the Midwest.
Meeting Sid Axelrod, Wally Simmers, The Good brothers (Walt and Bill), Carl Goldberg, The Boucher brother's (Bob and Roland),
Lee Renaud (which I was able to build many of his prototype kits for Airtronics), Dewey Broberg (Du-Bro), Mark Smith, Joe Elgin, Glen Sigafoose (and Hazel) and many others.

Few of them were members of the same club I was in.
Others I met at contests and many I got to know by other people.
The longest Club I've been in has been/is S.O.A.R. (Silent Order of Aeromodelling by Radio -- 1974)

I got to know them when I was in my teenage years flying U/control, to FreeFlight, to 27mhz R/C, to 72mhz R/C.
Most of them are gone now and very few are left.
I think the best years of the hobby was from the 50's to the 80's until the internet crept in and local hobby shops started to disappear, then the local domestic manufactures started disappearing as well. then the larger hobby companies started to disappear
(Tower Hobbies, Horizon hobbies, Airtronics, Graupner, Goldberg, etc.)

The selection of kits available are just not there anymore?
I've built kits from Megow to Goldberg, to Guillows, Heggi, Aeronaut, Graupner, Topflight, and the list goes on.
But If I want a kit now, I have to scratch built and go to the outerzone for the plans. ( https://outerzone.co.uk/ )

My 1st R/C radio was by Kraft (2 channel brick). My dad's radio was a Heath kit.
Dad moved on to an MRC radio that he purchased from Polk's Hobby in Pennsylvania.
I didn't get a new radio until about 1974 (I was 15yr. old) and that was a 3 channel EK-LRB (Little Red Brick) from Jerry Krause.
It was used but to me it was "NEW". Jerry saw my Kraft brick and said this was better.
My dad purchase Kraft radios and I purchased EK Logictrol radios and the last EK radio I purchased in 1976 was the EK Ranger 3 channel with mini servos (still big by todays servos).
When EK folded I changed to Airtronics radios as I introduces to Lee Renaud and he was importing the Sanwa radios from Japan and branding them with the Airtronics name.

In short, would I change anything? maybe some not so bright decisions, but I think I grew up in the right time of life.
I'm retired, still young enough to enjoy life, and the newer technologies that are coming into our hobby, I just am sad that somethings from the past (so many companies -- and interests) didn't continue on?

rsv1cox Tue Jun 20, 2023 11:59 am

Thanks all for your replys.

I tried the machine screw (4/40) from the OK Cub. It works and tightens but still seems a bit sloppy. Will be looking for the size that sosam suggested.

I had to swap the NVA to the left side to fit the OK's fuel tank, the Fuji bleeding MMO the whole time. Still stiff, it will get the Berrymans treatment. No worries about compression, even while stiff it gets nice resistance at TDC.

Notice the flats on the cylinder fins.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015551

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GallopingGhostler Tue Jun 20, 2023 2:48 pm

Broken fins on the back Bob, makes me think it was a victim in a crash. A nose in that broke the hardwood mount and shoved the engine into the bulkhead firewall. Those thin steel fins of mild carbon steel, wouldn't take much to break them.

Sosam, I predated you by 4 years, was reflecting back even earlier. But, yes, even the 1960's had a lot of development. Had my Dad's Radio Amateur Handbook from 1958 and one I bought in 1974, still using a lot of tube (valve) technology. The earlier used a lot of the older octal tubes, latter did leave some transistor designs. Then, a lot of people still rolled their own electronics.

sosam117 Tue Jun 20, 2023 4:58 pm

Bob,
Check to see "if" a Cox 5-40 screw screws into the hole?
The metric size of a 4-40 is 2.75mm
The metric size of the 5-40 is 2.85mm which might be the correct fit into the threaded stem in the back plate.
The 3mm screw measures 2.95mm which might be just a little too big?

Some of the Japanese mfg. were using our standards before going to their JIS (Japan Industrial Standard).

Remember, a 4-40 in a Cox front for the prop is slightly sloppy whereas the 5-40 is the correct size.

Regards,
Mike

rsv1cox Tue Jun 20, 2023 5:31 pm

Thanks George, I was afraid that they were broken fins, but they broke clean. No reason for flats there.

And Mike, yes, I tried a 5/40, I keep a supply for missing Cox prop screws but the 5/40 is a bit too large and will not fit into the hole.

Gave the Fuji the Berrymans treatment this afternoon. Amazing the difference it makes. Crock pots and A/F are so yesterday for me. Three minutes in Berryman's rotating the prop shaft CW and CCW and this is a new engine. Just put it back together and it has that nice new Cox .049 compression pop and back snap. Zero drag on the shaft. Some difference.

Shaft/drive washer are not splined rather a flat, a reason it came off so easy. Before Berryman's and after.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015555

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015556

Before and after drive washer, chucked it up in the drill press and a very fine jewelers file removed 90% of the damage. Later I smoothed it out with crocus cloth.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015557

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Thought about modifying a socket per sosams idea, decided to wait until after a Berrymans' soak. Glad I did. (Didn't need to..later) Jewelers screwdriver only "settles" into two of the four slots, not good for disassembly.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015559

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Berrymans, Simple Green in all the cavities, hot water rinse. Compresser blow out. Heat gun dry. Marvel Mystery Oil.

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While blowing out the water with compressed air I noticed water bubbles coming out around the backplate. What? Loose...yes! I just unscrewed it, no need to modify a socket.

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sosam117 Wed Jun 21, 2023 7:43 am

Bob,
That thread size on the backplate for the fuel tank might be a M2.8 screw which measures 2.78mm (which is hard to come by?)
The one thing really missing is the pitch?
Is it a fine or coarse pitch?
You could carefully tap it to a 5-40 size, 1st using a tapered tap, then using a bottoming tap?
Threading it to M3 would be chancy at best as you might be removing too much metal in the hole and weakening the wall thickness.

Just an idea?
If you have a numbered drill bit set, find a drill that is a good tight fit into the hole.
This will give you a rough guess of the size of screw that will fit in.
Now "IF" you have a machinist's handbook you could find out what tap/bolt size would be a good fit where you find the root dia. is on the tap that would match up to the existing hole diameter.

rsv1cox Wed Jun 21, 2023 6:27 pm

Thanks Mike, I'm going to hit a hardware store soon and see if I can find those metric sizes. If I can't, retaping to 5/40 is an option, I have those taps.

Gave the mufflers the Berryman's treatment and built a stand for it. I'm happy with how both the simple stand and the engine turned out. No reason why it would not run with the proper glow plug. I would run it without the mufflers, added weight and complexity would be a bother.

I have been looking around for a plane that would fit it. Nothing I have in my mind built or kit would be a good fit. ,099's are a new breed to me. Perhaps a Tiger Moth. I'm open to suggestions.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015571

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GallopingGhostler Wed Jun 21, 2023 10:39 pm

Bob, your "Bat" Fuji .099 cleaned up well, looks impressive, love the odd styled muffler, would add class to the front of any classic model of the era. Regarding a type of plane for it, just bought a reasonably complete kit, an old 25 in. wingspan C/L Scientific Cessna 170 profile, should be here soon.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Scient10

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Scient11

It is for my similar class power Fox .09 Rocket complete with tank. I am amazed that this Scientific actually has symmetrical wing ribs.

rdw777 Thu Jun 22, 2023 10:47 am

The bat wing Fugi turned out nice Bob…. Certainly a unique shape…. Whatever you put it in needs to highlight the mufflers…. They could form the top part of the cowling with a little block balsa work….Maybe consider to copy the 170 below?

The 170 is neat George…. I like how Scientific (Musciano?… Looks like his work) went to trouble to cowl the engine on a profile fuse…. Maybe not the most practical but certainly adds character…. Wheel pants too!! ….. Will make a nice 50’s style CL…. Very unique Very Happy

rsv1cox Thu Jun 22, 2023 3:21 pm

Nice find on the Scientific Cessna George, I look for them all the time on ebay but many suffer from that black mold that grows on balsa.

I'm having a hard time finding a suitable model for it. It begs for a WW1 type airplane, military or civilian. I'm thinking a Cosmic Wind type with cowling "cheeks". Lose the cheeks and let the mufflers hang out. Don't know. Maybe I can find a balsa kit, something 16" to 20" but it's not really a speed engine. I have thought about a "Pusher", turn the muffler around and beam mount it but the mufflers extend back into the props back yard, so a no go there unless I could find a 3 1/2" prop. Smile

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan P1015578

It reminds me of the Enya vintage 3001 .09, my all-time favorite engine. Love the "pot-bellied" "Franklin stove" look of it and they are great runners for what they are. I have many of them from NIB to junk.

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sosam117 Thu Jun 22, 2023 3:33 pm

How about a Tomboy Sr.?
You can go to the outerzone (https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=12755 ) and download the Tomboy Sr. 48" wing span.
It is a simple plane to build and takes little time.

The only thing I changed was the dihedral.
I cut it down, so instead of 4", it is 2-1/2" it made the plane more stable and not so much like a free-flight plane.

Mine has a Cox .09 with an Enya .09 carb mate to it for throttle control.
16cc of fuel (the tank I built too - behind the motor) and I usually fly for almost 15 minutes (longer if I catch a thermal) just puttering around.

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Tomboy15

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan Tomboy14

sosam117 Thu Jun 22, 2023 3:51 pm

rsv1cox wrote:
It reminds me of the Enya vintage 3001 .09, my all-time favorite engine. Love the "pot-bellied" "Franklin stove" look of it and they are great runners for what they are. I have many of them from NIB to junk.

Bob,
I like those old Enya engines as well.

The old Enya vintage 3001 .09 with the old throttle control!

And the Enya .09-II also with throttle control!

On to the Enya .09-III

And all of the later Enya .09 engines finishing off with the Enya .09 Quicky.

rsv1cox Thu Jun 22, 2023 5:27 pm

Thanks Mike

You and I could go on and on about Enya engines and probably bore the peanut gallery here mightly. Smile

Maybe not Ken......Ennima (sp) engines. Smile

I defer to you on knowledge and quality, and maybe quanity (I lost count long ago) but we love the things. I bought all the junk I could find, as low as $2.50 - $5.00. I was usually the only bidder, why so cheap. But, I found some specials too, the .36, racing engines etc.. I gave many duplicates away, but I have an engine that Kim sent me, a forever keeper as are all my gifted engines. They all reside in a display case.

Thanks for the tutorial in your PM, Yen to dollars.

Timex case exclusively Enya, and a NIB spin around tower, mostly Enya.

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GallopingGhostler Thu Jun 22, 2023 5:58 pm

sosam117, that is a really nicely done Tomboy, looks like it is a real floater.

Bob, there is a half-A plan on Hip Pocket Aeronautics that could be scaled up a touch for that Fuji:
https://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/details.php?image_id=312 WWI Bipes and Tripes

FedEx, Fuji, and five days from Japan 2023-033

rdw777 wrote:The 170 is neat George…. I like how Scientific (Musciano?… Looks like his work) went to trouble to cowl the engine on a profile fuse…. Maybe not the most practical but certainly adds character…. Wheel pants too!! ….. Will make a nice 50’s style CL…. Very unique

Robert, thanks. Yes, those wheels pants add something that a lot of times are left off due to simplicity.

At this point I can't say if it was Walt designed until it arrives, should be here by the weekend or Monday. It could be a Paul Del Gatto design, I noticed his name listed on a few Scientific 1/2-A plans. Paul was also a designer on Scientific rubber powered kits.

Past happiness to help the Del Gatto's:

rsv1cox Thu Jun 22, 2023 6:07 pm

Love the Fokkers and the Camel George. Both contenders.

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