Enya fitted with Muffler // "Two" G-Mark .061 engines rebuilt/cleaned up

Looks very Good Mike ,what is the screw in the end of the Enya .06 muffler for different side deflection ?

getback wrote:Looks very Good Mike ,what is the screw in the end of the Enya .06 muffler for different side deflection ?

The screw on the other side of the Enya muffler is for pressurizing the fuel tank.
On the larger engines there is a pressure tap on the muffler.

Enya made these mufflers with the pressure formed into the muffler and has a screw threaded in the end to plug it if not needed/wanted.
But if needed, you remove the screw and install a tubing from the muffler to you overflow on your fuel tank to pressurize it.

GallopingGhostler wrote:Didn't know, @sosam117 that the G-Marks came with black finish aluminum crankcases, your restoration is very clean, engine now looks new.

I have a G-Mark .061 R/C to clean up, bought off the Bay not long ago, but it looks closer to your pre-restored G-Mark. I remember them when in college in the late 1970's advertised by Bill Cannon, but were beyond my budget. So, I bought an Ace R/C throttle ring for my Golden Bee and used that on my rudder only Q-Tee, connected to KRD auxiliary throttle.

(Used a section of threaded nyrod copper tube end soldered to music wire with end fixed where would exit fuselage if for R/C elevator, with adjustable clevis to elevator horn, so I could set elevator decalage for single channel trim adjustments.)

Q-Tee also makes an excellent rudder only plane.

The very early G-Mark engines were "blackened" just like the very early Mills engines for reducing corrosion purposes.
Later engines use a different aluminum to where the salt air would not corrode the aluminum.

I have a G-Mark Sea-Gulls (NIB) and one slightly used that are black
The Sea-Gull was never shipped to the USA by Cannon.

The used G-Mark .061 Sea-Gull:




New in the Box G-Mark .061 Sea-Gull:

It is interesting that they were anodized black?

Bernie and maybe also Matt did some anodizing the machined .049 Cox reedie crankcases, but powder coated the cast ones.

Just curious, but what trick did you use to restore the black finishes on your G-Marks? The finish looks flawless.

Mike,

Thanks! They look amazing. I've never seen any other second series with black blocks, I really like the look!

C.T.

The Twin also came in an "all-black" version, but I quite like plain version, it shows the different parts and their machining better.

GallopingGhostler wrote:It is interesting that they were anodized black?

Bernie and maybe also Matt did some anodizing the machined .049 Cox reedie crankcases, but powder coated the cast ones.

Just curious, but what trick did you use to restore the black finishes on your G-Marks? The finish looks flawless.

There is a "blackening" for aluminum, but you have to be careful that the aluminum doesn't have magnesium in it!
I tried it on some old Enya mufflers, and they started to fizz like I just dropped in an Alka-Seltzer tablet.
I sprayed a "clear" coat on the muffler to seal it (that is why it is shiny and on the exhaust tongue, you can see how "rough" it is now from the blackening.)

One fizzed very badly because of the magnesium in the metal makeup.
The large Enya 60-III muffler --- bottom right corner.
Now the later version of the Enya muffler (the 19X muffler) came through without a problem and turned out well.
I only did the blackening one time on that muffler. ----- upper left corner




Photos below are of the blackening solution -- used to do touch-ups on hand guns?

Surfer_kris wrote:The Twin also came in an "all-black" version, but I quite like plain version, it shows the different parts and their machining better.

What I think is that the later versions that were not blackened was for a cost savings,
as that was one less operation (person) that added cost to the product.

I know Caterpillar was always looking to cut "extra" machining out of an operation. (cost savings)

Mike, that is interesting, a special chemical acid like dye, but needs a better alloy of aluminum. I have several of those earlier Enya mufflers. Found they cleaned up well with Mothers Mag & Aluminium Polish, got a photo of it mounted on an Enya .35-III TV somewhere in this forum.

Yup, not knowing the exact alloy, but different than the later ones.

You jogged my memory, recalling you did that early Enya muffler a couple years ago.

Has access to prime exhaust port, but on my example, original owner sealed those priming holes with clear silicone sealant, which I removed during cleaning. Guess it kept muffler body clean of Castor spray. Later I can restore the silicone caulk if I want.

Regarding cost savings, I remember a senior structural engineer friend at Douglas Aircraft late 1980's, lived a couple blocks from us. His wife was our department secretary.

Another engineer designed the C-17 engine pylon mounting system. Used expensive aircraft grade bolts, like close to 20 different sizes. He reduced them down to about half a dozen.

Specifics are a little hazy as that was close to 40 years ago.

Those had minimum quantity each from the bolt manufacturer, something like 5,000 pieces each different size. Each bolt was like over $50 then. Talking about production run of 400 aircraft.

Without simplification, Douglas would have considerable excess stock of unused quantities plus costs they would never recoup as a result.

World needs practical engineers, not prima donnas.

sosam117 wrote:
What I think is that the later versions that were not blackened was for a cost savings,
as that was one less operation (person) that added cost to the product.

I don't know for the G-mark twin, it came out well before I could afford anything like that, and I don't recall them being sold around here at the time either (1979-1980?).

If a product needs extra bling in order to sell, then it is usually not worth the effort, in my experience. I still have of few of the CS/Brodak mkI with their pretty red cylinders as a reminder of that...

Wow,

Well, that's embarrassing! Yuck! But, thank you, Mike. I have none of the tools that you have nor do I have room on our boat for them. My wife is unhappy about the basic kits, radios, glues, dopes, and sundries that have crept on the boat. Model time interferes with boatwork time. But, I am determined to fly an airplane in every country we visit as we sail around the world. We can't leave before next July. Our niece will graduate from high school, next May. Then we can get packed up, pick a first port and LAUNCH!!

C.T.

Boats13 wrote:Wow,

Well, that's embarrassing! Yuck! But, thank you, Mike. I have none of the tools that you have nor do I have room on our boat for them. My wife is unhappy about the basic kits, radios, glues, dopes, and sundries that have crept on the boat. Model time interferes with boatwork time.  But,  I am determined to fly an airplane in every country we visit as we sail around the world. We can't leave before next July. Our niece will graduate from high school, next May. Then we can get packed up, pick a first port and LAUNCH!!

C.T.

C.T.
If you are still looking for that "turbine" oil that I use. (which is good to use on many things - especially on your boat).
I can usually get a bottle of it at the local "Ace" hardware store in the lubrication isle.
My dad used it for years on everything that needed oiling around the house.

He found out about it when he was working for Commonwealth Edison (for 50 years)
And Com-Ed was getting the oil in 55-gallon drums for lubrication around the generating plant.

What I like about it too is the extendable tube so that you can squirt the oil exactly where you want it and not have an oily mess everywhere.
Also, with a cap to seal the tubing, it is easy to store without it leaking too.

I ordered some a few days ago. It's coming from a hobby store in Chicago!

CT

Boats13 wrote:I ordered some a few days ago. It's coming from a hobby store in Chicago!

CT

I went today to my local "Ace" hardware store, and they rearranged the lubrication isle.
I could not find the "Turbine Oil" in that isle?

I asked the store manager where is it?
He told me that items that were not selling/moving were dropped.
But, "IF" I go online, I could purchase it there and have it delivered it to the store for local pick-up.

For you C.T.
What Hobby shop in Chicago?

C.T.
Here is the website for the Ace Hardware store.
Ace Hardware link

Click on the upper left corner above the "ACE" name to get an Ace store by you --- Next time you need to purchase it?

Never made the connection before that was being a turbine lubricant, but have the same oil in same type nylon styled bottle with long oiler tube. People here use it mostly to lubricate evaporative (swamp) coolers, electric motor and belt bearings.

I even use it for door hinges and house exhauster motors, eletric fans, etc. Also for after run oil in glow motors.

I keep one of those types around as well just because they’re so easy to use and don’t make a mess…Good for getting into difficult places…. Mine was made by Dial Manufacturing and unfortunately doesn’t look like turbine oil…. Still good general purpose though…. From the MSDS….

“Distillates, petroleum, hydrotreated heavy paraffinic”

Actually Robert, I think mine looks more like yours than Mikes, probably a type of mineral oil, which still is a fine general purpose oil. (Just not at a location where I can conveniently pull it off the shelf and look.)  

Aren't some of the automatic transmission oils very closely related to the genuine gas turbine engine oils?

GallopingGhostler wrote:Aren't some of the automatic transmission oils very closely related to the genuine gas turbine engine oils? .

I’m not sure George but I think ATF is well thought of by some of our members…. I use air tool oil for long term storage just because I already had some….. Was probably inspired by this thread below that I found when I started messing with engines again…. Still an interesting read today…

https://www.coxengineforum.com/t7353-after-run-oils

The G-Marks look great!

I bought some applicator bottles a while back. They work well and you can fill them with your favorite oil. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWFHW3K/ These Liberty bottles are nice. They also offer these with a few different oils. I tried some cheaper bottles and they were junk. My son was also using one for thinned wood glue for rubber model building.

IMO any hydraulic oil will be fine, but some have additional R&O additives and may also meet "turbine" specs. I think air tool oil maybe just be R&O hydraulic oil, but air tool oil spec sheets are pretty vague. If you don't otherwise use or have access to these types of oils, buying a gallon or 5 gallon pail isn't practical. These specialty products have their place.

[quote="sosam117"]

Boats13 wrote:I ordered some a few days ago. It's coming from a hobby store in Chicago!

CT

I went today to my local "Ace" hardware store, and they rearranged the lubrication isle.
I could not find the "Turbine Oil" in that isle?

I asked the store manager where is it?
He told me that items that were not selling/moving were dropped.
But, "IF" I go online, I could purchase it there and have it delivered it to the store for local pick-up.

For you C.T.
What Hobby shop in Chicago?

Mike,

CHICAGOLAND R/C, through Amazon on Prime. No muss, no fuss! ACE Hardware is my favorite chain hardware store. I do try to find a locally-owned store in whatever town I have lived in. There is just something wonderful about local hobby stores and hardware stores. I have found one of each, here in Kemah.

CT

C.T.