T-Bee-D1 (a Rod-de-sign)

rdw777 wrote:I like that bright yellow Roddie, Neat and clean, good surface prep…Looking forward to your trim scheme

Thanks Robert, It's more of a "taxicab-yellow".. than a canary.. or lemon-yellow.. but I do have both.





Too cold outdoors to paint. I can't paint indoors here at home.. because there just isn't proper ventilation. I hope to be able to spray the final coats in the warehouse where I used to work. Stay tuned..

akjgardner wrote:Looking good Roddie , I like the colors

Thanks Joe, These two colors together are a lot different than anything I've done before. I'm hoping to finish-up this week.. but I can't paint here at home. I've got a plan though.. and if it works out; you'll see the contrasting colors soon.

Yellow and black, yellow and blue always great combos.........

rsv1cox wrote:Yellow and black, yellow and blue always great combos.........

Robert, This is kind of like an old school Butterscotch-yellow.. and Maroon. I think you know the look that I'm going after.

roddie wrote:

rsv1cox wrote:Yellow and black, yellow and blue always great combos.........

Robert, This is kind of like an old school Butterscotch-yellow.. and Maroon. I think you know the look that I'm going after.

Looks like no one will know the look that I was going after..... because the can sprayed for one second.. then died..

It was 52 degrees F. and sunny this morning when I woke up. By noon time it was 60. I was psyched.. because I didn't think I was going to be able to paint until possibly next Spring.

.... so I get all set up....



.... and start to spray my maroon color.... and this is how far I get....



.......... I thought maybe the nozzle was clogged.... no. There's almost a full can..

so.... I actually did get to paint my trim yesterday. Instead of the planned "maroon" shade (R.O.#248567 Gloss Merlot), I went with "gloss Cherry Red" (R.O.#271920)











It's forecast to be another unseasonably mild day today.. and I'm wondering if I should apply some type of red pattern to the wingtips...

I have to ask, what is going on with these lead-out guides? What happened to the wire lead-outs? I must have missed a page.

getback wrote:Looks good roddie , i think Robert is right with the checker board on the tips / could iron on some monatoke I replyed to the rattle -can pressure lost thread .

Saw that and quoted you Eric.. thanks!

rsv1cox wrote:I have to ask, what is going on with these lead-out guides?  What happened to the wire lead-outs?  I must have missed a page.

I'm still using the solid-wire lead-outs Robert. I removed most of the control linkage prior to painting. The tip-guides and pushrod fairlead I covered, using pieces of  sm. plastic tubing.



I kept it simple..



You can really see that outboard tip-weight now...

Ah, paint protection roddie.  Got it.  Your attention to detail, I would have just painted right over them or added them later.

rsv1cox wrote:Ah, paint protection roddie.  Got it.  Your attention to detail, I would have just painted right over them or added them later.

Soon as it's cured-enough to handle; I'll re-install the controls and see how it balances with an engine mounted.. probably the one I built with the 8cc GB tankbowl.

You know;...... while I was designing this model, I knew that I wanted a design without landing gear. What I didn't consider.. was how this might affect balance. I generally use 1/16" music-wire struts on the mains. Whether forming a one-piece "inverted-vee".. or using two separate wing-mounted struts, there's a good amount of weight there. Then there's the wheel-choice.. more weight. The tail-moment was shortened but was it shortened enough?.. and the stabilizer/elevator assembly is like a whale-tail.
    I'm concerned now.. that the "lack of" gear-weight.. along with those tailfeathers might yield a tail-heavy condition.. but there are some interesting design features that could help safeguard against that.

The forward-fuse/nose of this model is overbuilt. There's 1/64" plywood nose-doublers mounted using epoxy. They extend all the way back to the wing's trailing-edge. The 3/16" sheet-balsa fuse was perforated with pin-holes where the doublers mount.. for the epoxy to seep into..







.. and the hardwood engine-mounting blocks are pinned-through using hardwood dowels..







So.. there's more weight there.. than what it would appear.

I decided to reinstall the controls. The lead-outs need shortening. I made them long to test how small I could form the eyes. I wanted them small enough to fit through my safety-pin/guide-eyes.



The pushrod fairlead worked out well..



weight "less-engine" is 4.5 oz.



"with-engine" will be 6.6 oz.



I made new balance-posts using finish-nails..



Balancing approximately 13/16" rearward of the wing's leading-edge.. with the 8cc integrally tanked engine (much the same as a Golden Bee)

Do you notice anything interesting, that should have a positive-effect on the U-Control flight-characteristics of this model?



Hint #1- It's forward the firewall..

Do you notice anything interesting, that should have a negative-effect on the U-Control flight-characteristics of this model?

Only one engine mount screw............  

Nice job roddie. You won't lose it in the weeds.

Bob

"Rodney" (Oldenginerod) guessed it.. with a "left-handed" propeller. There are no thrust or fixed-surface offsets applied to this model. The torque of the engine's combustion will have a considerable influence on this model's performance. We're not sure why... U-control models are flown in a counter-clockwise.. rotation.. which is counter-productive to the torque produced by most of the model engines that you'll find.

rsv1cox wrote:Do you notice anything interesting, that should have a negative-effect on the U-Control flight-characteristics of this model?

Only one engine mount screw............  

Nice job roddie.  You won't lose it in the weeds.

Bob

I want to come to your house for Thanksgiving Robert. I'll bring Lynne...my piano and some airplanes.........