RC Cars Cox 0.49 (Cox Stocker Kyosho f1,beetle) Killer Bee Backplate New Video!

Yiiii! I just spent 15 minutes writing a reply and a PM popup blew it away.

Thanks for sharing your adventures, coxaddicted. I'll get back on that post tonight.

Looking forward to hear from you RknRusty

I just like to add, that the showed car is running with a star shaped copper reed. Maybe it will perform better with the original mylar or teflon oval reed.

I have to order some new backplates, that is also the reason why the cox stocker is still not running.

All Cox powered cars I own and know are using the black delrin backplate which is not reliable because its ,,crumbs'' after some runs (I had this problem also in the 90'ies as the car was new, so it is not a problem of age)

I think I can solve this problem with the sure start backplates (the white backplate of the older product engines is reliable too, but needs the star chapped copper reed)

Hey, CA. I browsed through this thread for the first time the other day. I never realized the cars were so complex. These drivetrains are pretty tricky. I was imagining a car on a string, so I had just sort of passed it over.

As for needling it, we flyers have to deal with setting it rich to pick up the slack when the prop unloads. I know that must be different for a throttled machine unless you're just making an all out wfo drag run. I'm sure your temperatures are higher too, so I can't really offer any advice there. That paper that said something like 24kRPMs sounds kind of scary to me. I know the planes will shear the splined tip of the crank off doing that. Maybe the cars have a fatter crank? I think the drive tube, the nose of the crankcase, is thicker on some car engines. That's what Paul Gibeault said a lot of mouse racers try to use. I do believe the mylar reed will work better.

I feel kind of bad, as you've been posting and posting and not getting much response, and having to mostly answer your own questions. I'll take the time and read it more closely. Thanks for posting about it and taking the time to make videos too.

Yo Coxa
I've been following it all, looking good.

I used to go to my local super market car park either early in the Morning or Late in the evening.
My Schumacher Menace could just change up to 3rd before running out of room.
Yes Rusty they have gears too.

John Goddard wrote:Yo Coxa
I've been following it all, looking good.

I used to go to my local super market car park either early in the Morning or Late in the evening.
My Schumacher Menace could just change up to 3rd before running out of room.
Yes Rusty they have gears too.

I had no idea. Damn, I hope I don't develop an interest in anything else.
Do you manually shift it?

Naw, they've got centrifugal clutch's when the weights get thrown out a set distance at a certain rev amount they
change up like an auto.
But it does mean they goooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

Thank you for your attention guys. Occasionally I thought it is going to be a monologue here
I think most members are pilots and are not interested in cars. I am also registrated in a german rc forum, but the interested for this little cars is poor, they are all going big with 1:5 scale and 1.6 cui two stroke/ or brushless engines.

Oh wow, the schumacher menace is really fast (Must be the name ) I read about 2 seconds from 0-60mph

My Kyosho Cox has no gearing, but you can choose between 2 gear ratios (you have to convert before driving), sadly I have lost the other gear ratio (I hope the Ebay Ferrari is including this, will be delivered soon).

Rusty, I also don't believe the 23.000 rpm ( But thats what promised on the box of the gtp nissan).
Sadly I have got no velocity sensor, otherwise it would maybe possible to calculate the rpm's via a gear ratio calculation

The chassis suspension of the kyosho cox is tricky too, like in a real formula 1 car with double wishbones and inside suspension at front and rear. This causes a very realistic driving characteristic.

It is a good idea with the supermarket, but in winter the sunset is too early, furthermore all supermarkets have flagging floors, asphalt would be better due to the chasssis clearness.

I used to drive in a industrial ruine parc, but it is not allways possible because of truckers who take a rest in their lorrys. They seem to be not pleased with the awesome engine sound of this little car

As written some posts before I found a new must have. I will give further informations next week

Imagine that, those truckers getting mad about the racket and your car zooming in and out under their trailers and between their wheels.

RknRusty wrote:Imagine that, those truckers getting mad about the racket and your car zooming in and out under their trailers and between their wheels.

Yes that would be fun. But most people I met while driving the car, are intersted like a little boy. They ask: is it real gas-powered? Where is the engine? And I say: Look at the blue exhaust plume.



BTW: I wonder if it's possible to fix an Td 0.49 in this chassis

I like boxes, today it rings




I am curious whats in the box, you too???

Ok, this was in the box:



Notice the little picture of the 0.49 Cox which originaly was in a bubble pack, production date is 1991.
I have the same chassis with another body, it is the Espo Larousse showed in the videos.

I don't know why the pre owner paint a Ferarri in base coat grey but ok

I bought this one for spares, it has runned only 3 times and is in good overall condition. Sadly some parts are missing and the engine is the wrong one (from another Kyosho Cox, the VW beetle mentioned some pages before), but has the typical muffle with valve control.


Here is a picture of the engine. The Cylinder looks o.k. The glow head is from a plane and was drilled!!! (But the correct was also included) Maybe the pre-owner tried to make a conversion for normal glowplugs. The Black backplate is broken (I think my theory is right, the black delrin backplate is for the garbage can )



Now I am looking for the missing parts. Regarding my driving skills it is a good felling to know that I've got a spare chassis .

The other one doesn't start today I think the glowplug heater batteries are used up. Next time I will have some spare batteries, so invidious.

looks like the screen might be more reduction than the bushing. Is the bushing to hold the screen?

Phil

Maybe you need wheely bars on the Mini if you unplug the intake.

I like fuel filler bottles too, even though I don't have one. You can fill them with freshly filtered fuel. Glow fuel seems to form coagulated particles pretty quickly, so filtered fuel needs filtering again whether you open it or not. That's why you don't want to shake or tilt your bottle for a while before you run your engine, so it'll all stay on the bottom. It might not bother reedys much, but it can slow the flow through the sprinkler on a Tee Dee. So if you're about to race, don't let your opponent "accidentally" knock your jug over, or he might get irritated.

Dear prankow,

could be possible that the screen is a reduction too, but it is necsessary for priming I think.
Another problem is the position of the motor near the wheel, if I remove the screen dust/everything on the ground could be intaked.
I have to wait until the model will be delivered, I would like to use it beside the road because for on road I've got the F1 cars.
But it seems to be no suspension on this chassis

The engine is using the black backplate #1259 which looks like the same as a sure start backplate (without snorkel). The screen is integrated in the backplate. I think the bushing is really a curbing. The car is scale 1/12 and if it has the same power (and I suppose so) like a cox gtp nissan or the mentioned F1 car it would be really to fast for a beetle or mini.

Maybe the Kyosho Engineers put this bushing into the engine to reduce the maximum output.

@RKNRusty

I don't believe a wheelybar is necsessary But it would be great fun if so

Thanks for the tip regarding the fuel. Of course I will kick my opponents fuel can around the racetrack

@all: Check this Ebay link for more pictures of a Kyosho Cox Beetle.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kyosho-VW-Kafer-Beetle-mit-049-Cox-Motor-Seltenheit-Raritat-/360514785265?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item53f05b0ff1

The VW Beetle was one of the Cars that defined the 60's. It was produced in millions and was reliable and economical with a touch of sportiness (developed by Mr. Ferdinand Porsche who established Porsche)


Now I have it here in small

This 1/10 Scale Model has (hopefully) the same spirit with a peppy 0.49 engine fitted with throttle, heatsink and a large capacity 35cc fuel tank and a muffler that gives a sporty sound without beeing loud.



Now it is time for workshop. Let's see if anything is there and what's about the engine

So far so good,

the car looks to be complete. Yesterday afternoon I managed to switch on the control servos (which were included and new).

The pre-owner had a strange point of view how to assemble the steering rod and did not built in the servo saver
(I will attach pictures soon, very funny )

I gave the motor a short try, and it started by pulling the strap at the first time (not clogged because it seems not to be used yet). Due to the twillight I had to stop. I will try again today.

The car has a suspension which is very close to the Stocker/nissan/indycar. Therefore it's not possible to use it beside the road but maybe on flat country roads.

If you like you can give me some suggestions about the paint.

Tried to start the eng yesterday. I have a problem with air in the fuel line, does it depends of the lenght?

I will clean everything again, maybe it is clogged too.

coxaddicted wrote:Tried to start the eng yesterday. I have a problem with air in the fuel line, does it depends of the lenght?

I will clean everything again, maybe it is clogged too.

You may just have a pinhole in the fuel tube or the nipple at either end isn't sealing. On the planes we try not to run more than a couple of inches to the engine. And the pickup inside the tank should be on the same vertical plane as the venturi. Slightly lower will run, but gravity can draw air back down into the line when the NV is open and the engine isn't running, so you may have to keep the line pinched until the engine is firing on its prime, and then un-pinch it. That's a slight nuisance.

Thanks for the tip and watching this topic ! That could be, i already shortened the tube. On the f1 car it has helped too. I will see. BTW the pull strap starter is not as good as i supposed, maybe the starter spring is worn out.

Good news my collegue wrote me an sms, at the moment he is lack of time. But i will get his mini Cooper soon


That would be very cool, than i have all 4 models showed above.

If you don't have the bits for the servo saver
Coxa, try to buy an aftermarket one.
Your servo will die fairly quickly without one.

John Goddard wrote:If you don't have the bits for the servo saver
Coxa, try to buy an aftermarket one.
Your servo will die fairly quickly without one.

Hey John,

luckily the servo saver was included. I just mentioned, that the pre-owner has forgotten to install it (and also installed the steering rod totaly wrong), I dont know why because this model was purchased 90% pre assembled

I hope I will get it to run next week.

The backplate problem will also be solved soon, I ordered some backplates (the original ones and surestart) and other spare parts.
So I can start the Cox Stocker soon


I also ordered a killer bee back plate for my Espo Larousse (my first cox powered model which is a real runner )
Maybe I find some extra revs with this backplate due to a larger venturi (if it runs anyway )

OT:

It is also time to rebuild all my Black Widows (I am looking for a german rc airplane called simprop zaunkönig).
It is a small and fast 2 channel controlled plane :

Here is a vido of one (not mine, but this is what i am looking for):

That looks a lot of fun.
Take a look at,-
http://www.fmkmodels.com/
Cracking kits, beautifully laser cut and not expensive.

As for kb back plates, mine runs at 6 turns out and
It burns fuel VERY quickly.